Hello, just a question for HT members. My car ran fine when it was N/A. Now that I install a turbo kit and running Crome, I'm having a CEL #7 (TPS). I never had this issue when I was running N/A. The car does not want to start, and in order for the engine to idle, the gas pedal needs to be steady. If let go, the engine apparently dies. The CEL comes on automatically and stays solids. If anyone have any similar issue with this, please post. Thanks

 

Does the hot wire of the TPS plug receive 5 reference volts from the ECU with the key in ON(II)? Test the other two wires for a short or open.

 

Quick question. Does it start with a stock ECU? I'm not asking you to run it, just see if it starts.

 

The car wont start with the stock ecu, and the CEL #7 comes on

 

 

Is this right??? can someone confirm this? I maybe did this wrong lol..

 

Okay so I got up this morning and check the Ecu and harness. I check green/white wire "ground" good. I check yellow wire "good 5v from the Ecu and harness" and for the middle wire red/blue...I'm getting a voltage of 40.0 reading and no contunity when keys off. Lmk what ht member think what do be the problem..thanks

 

Bump

 

Help! lol

 

Do voltage tests at the unplugged TPS connector with the key in ON(II):

1) Does the Yel/Wht wire have about 5V to body ground?
2) Does the Yel/Wht wire have about 5V using the Grn/Wht wire terminal as ground?

 

Yes, Yellow/Wht is good with body ground and with Green/wht. Showing 5V across

 

You need to give details about exactly how you did this test:

Did you measure continuity? If so, instead measure voltage to body ground and to the Grn/Wht ground wire with the key in ON(II) and engine off.

 

I have continuity for Grn/Wht but no continuity for the Red/Blue "middle wire"
.

 

You did not read my post. Read for comprehension. Don't skim or ignore.

 

Measure voltage to body ground and to the Grn/Wht as ground = Good

 

What does "good" mean? What specific test are you referring to? You are making this difficult.

 

I'm very sorry for making it difficult for you Ron. It's difficult just as for myself. I haven't test voltage to body ground and Grn/Wht as ground yet, but I did the other way around which indicate a beep from my multimeter. I'll keep you updated when I get home. Thanks.

 

Did you read and understand post #12? Read this post carefully. If you have a specific question, then ask it. But first carefully read post #12.

 

okay, I measure voltage to body ground and Grn/Wht as ground with the key in ON(II) I had a continuity beep from my mutimeter....

 

Sorry, but this^ doesn't make any sense. When you measure voltage, the output is not continuity. It's voltage.

Did you read post #12? Measure voltage from the middle Red/Blu wire in the TPS connector when it is plugged in.

Then do the same measurement from the equivalent Lt Grn wire in the ECU connector.

 

Quick question, If I was able to calibrate the red/blue wire to WOT at 4.5V and close Throttle at 0.488..Is my Red/blue functionally properly? Just a question

 

Yes, if voltage measurement was done at Lt Grn wire in ECU connector. But calibrate TPS voltage at closed throttle and then read the voltage at WOT.

 

I test voltage for the D11 lt/Grn wire and negative D22 Grn/Wht and I showing a .437 at close throttle....everything looking okay so far?

 

Just so you know, I calibrate from the TPS sensor first then the ecu. I could be a bit off but I just want to verified if all the three wires are working according....

 

Your voltage measurements don't point to any problem. Your closed throttle voltage is a bit low, but I don't think that would throw code 7. At this point, I'd suggest that you swap in known good ECU to see whether the problem is eliminated.