Not popping like it's hot
So I built a Ls-v a month ago. Just got my ecu chipped and im throwing a CEL21 aka Pressure switch. I know the wiring was done correctly cause it was working. When I hooked my ecu back to the fender wall I lost v-tec. Have no clue why im not getting it anymore but I know that everything is right. Anyone have any suggestions?
So I built a Ls-v a month ago. Just got my ecu chipped and im throwing a CEL21 aka Pressure switch. I know the wiring was done correctly cause it was working. When I hooked my ecu back to the fender wall I lost v-tec. Have no clue why im not getting it anymore but I know that everything is right. Anyone have any suggestions?
Im so glad you are incredibly helping with this. Any clue as to what it could be wire wise? I followed the diagram to the T. All connections are solid. Still stumped as to what it could be.
Same question, are you actually doing a continuity test on the leads?
If it worked before and you swapped your ECU/ECM, [or had it rechipped] I would look at the chip. 94
If it worked before and you swapped your ECU/ECM, [or had it rechipped] I would look at the chip. 94
Here's the deal. It was a stock Ls. I had the ecu chipped. Came home and wired in the pressure switch and solenoid. Got it working while the ecu was laying on the floor board. After I got it working, I then mounted the ecu to the fender well where the ecu goes. Once that was done I lost vtec. I then went through the wiring another 30 times checking the connections and the code is still being thrown. Hopefully this clears up all questions you have.
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It was working before you mounted the ecu back in its location? If thats the case I would but money on a loose connection or short near the ecu
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You need to do a continuity test, testing the lead between the ECU/ECM and the VTEC solenoid for continuity and to make sure it has no continuity to ground, [short].
Just looking at wiggling/pulling on connections not definitive, the connection can look and feel good but still be bad, a short to chassis ground is also a possibility in which case ECU/ECM is most likely damaged. 94
Set meter to continuity, it's the setting that will "beep" the meter and the readout will be 000 when you touch the probes together.
Google is your friend, there are any number of multimeter "how to".
What kind of meter do you have, can you post a pic?
If you get the meter to the correct setting, unplug the ECU/ECM and the VTEC solenoid, touch one probe to the solenoid lead and the other probe to ground, there should be no "beep", [no continuity] now touch one probe to each end of the solenoid lead, at ECU/ECM and at the solenoid, there should be a "beep" and readout should be 000, [full continuity]. 94
Google is your friend, there are any number of multimeter "how to".
What kind of meter do you have, can you post a pic?
If you get the meter to the correct setting, unplug the ECU/ECM and the VTEC solenoid, touch one probe to the solenoid lead and the other probe to ground, there should be no "beep", [no continuity] now touch one probe to each end of the solenoid lead, at ECU/ECM and at the solenoid, there should be a "beep" and readout should be 000, [full continuity]. 94
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