Luckly after getting my crx running and getting rid of some codes that i've had for awhile there are still 2 codes that i cant seem to find. I have a pr4 ecu by rich tuned motorsports and it keeps showing a code 16 and 9. alot of people have told me that i can fix the code 9 and still drive that car with a code 16 showing but i want to get rid of both of them. Anybody run into this problem befor and if so how did you fix it?

 

'code 9','code 16', 'pr4' doesn't mean ****.

Honda ecu trouble codes are somewhat universal, you could have found this on google:
1 Oxygen Sensor "A" (Primary) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
2 Oxygen Sensor "B" defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
3 MAP Sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
4 CKP Sensor (Crankshaft Position Sensor) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
5 MAP Sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure) mechanical problem / disconnected piping
6 ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
7 TP Sensor (Throttle Position) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
8 TDC Sensor (Top Dead Center) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
9 CYP Sensor (Cylinder) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
10 IAT Sensor (Intake Air Temperature) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
12 EGR Lift Sensor (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
13 BARO Sensor (Atmospheric Pressure) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
14 IAC Valve (Idle Air Control) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
15 Ignition Output Signal missing or defective ignition output signal
16 Fuel Injector System defective circuit or unplugged / defective fuel injector
17 VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
19 Automatic Transmission Lock Up Control Solenoid Valve defective circuit or unplugged / defective solenoid valve
20 Electrical Load Detector defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
21 VTEC Solenoid Valve defective circuit or unplugged / defective solenoid valve
22 VTEC Oil Pressure Switch defective circuit or unplugged / defective oil pressure switch
23 KS (Knock Sensor) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
30 Automatic Transmission Signal: "A" / SEAF / SEFA / TMA or TMB defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
31 Automatic Transmission Signal "B" defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
41 Primary Oxygen Sensor - Heater circuit malfunction
43 Fuel Supply System defective or malfunctioning fuel supply system
45 System Too Lean or Too Rich malfunction in the fuel monitoring systems
48 LAF Sensor (Lean Air Fuel) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
54 CKF Sensor (Crankshaft Speed Fluctuation) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
58 TDC Sensor 2 (Top Dead Center) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
61 Oxygen Sensor, Heated - Sensor 1 (Primary) high voltage, low voltage, or slow response
63 Oxygen Sensor, Heated - Sensor 2 (Secondary) high voltage, low voltage, or slow response
65 Oxygen Sensor Heater (Secondary) malfunctioning or defective oxygen sensor heater
67 Catalyst system Efficiency Below Threshold malfunctioning or defective catalyst system
70 Automatic Transmission malfunction with the automatic transmission controls
71 Cylinder 1 Misfire or a Random Misfire a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire
72 Cylinder 2 Misfire or a Random Misfire a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire
73 Cylinder 3 Misfire or a Random Misfire a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire
74 Cylinder 4 Misfire or a Random Misfire a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire
75 Cylinder 5 Misfire or a Random Misfire a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire
76 Cylinder 6 Misfire or a Random Misfire a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire
80 Exhaust Gas Recirculation insufficient flow detected
86 ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature) circuit range / performance problem
90 Evaporative Emission Control System leak detected in the fuel tank area
91 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor low input
92 Evaporative Emission Control System insufficient purge flow

almost everyone reading this post has seen a code 9, there's lots of info if you search. code 16 is not cool, clear the codes and see if that comes back. if it does, check your fuel injector wiring. I'd be surprised if you could drive down the road with a code 16!

 

I'm beginning to think that code 16 has something to do with the injector resistor box that i rewire or the injectors that i got from the salvage yard might be bad. I'm not sure where to start at with any of the 2 codes. Have you ran into any of these codes or if you were me where would you start at on the car to fix the problem.

 

code 9 has to do with the cyp sensor in the dizzy, means you need a new one. code 16 probly has to do with your wiring, is the engine running ok?

 

I just freshly bought a new distributor last month and the motor cranks up and everything. It idles around 1

 

well if it's a brand new off the shelf dizzy then check your wiring if you did a DPFI-MPFI swap, other wise take it back and exchange it. also, try using a different ecu

 

When I modified the harness alittle bit I cut the wires to the green plug that goes into the resistor box. I was wondering on the injector resistor box plug (green plug) it has 4 red/black wires and a yellow/black wire. Does the 4 red/black wired specify which injector it powers?

 

yellow/black wire goes into resistor box from ignition, the four red/black wires go from the box to the injectors. if you mixed those up yes you'd see a problem

 

I have the yellow/black wire connected right. But on the plug which connector/ wire would represent the injector#\cylinder#?

 

should match up on the resistor box, one black one for reds?

 

Since I cut the 4 red/black wires does it matter which injector the wire goes to or is it specifies which wire on the the green plug controls an injector

 

Anybody plz

 

no the injector grounds are inside the ecu, so they just need the power source. the ecu switches the ground on/off for the injectors as long as those wires are in the correct places in the big cream colored a plug then your fine

 

yes it does matter which wire goes where, its jus like your plug wires, it runs off timing, if you have a spark in cylinder 1 the cylinder 1 injector needs to spit, if you mix them up then you will have spark in one cylinder and it will spit the fuel in the wrong cylinder and will give you problems, unless sumthing happened to the ecu, there shouldnt be nothin wrong with the tune, rich has tuned many of my friends cars, probably one of the best tuners ive met out there

 

ummm no the black and reds DO NOT MATTER where they go its the colored wires that matter where they go, thats what times them, the black and red wires do not matter what so ever, ive done this swap man times, i have one outside right now that runs just fine with obd I injectors and no resistor box at all on a pm-6. been running like that for 2 years no problems, as long as the wires running back to the ecu from the injectors are in the correct place the wires coming from the resistor box do not matter

 

Instead of using a resistor box could I delete it an I did alittle research on a code 16. Is it possible the ect could affect it. Also could running open headers or no air intake cause these codes?

 

Would you have a diagram to which injector wire(red/black) represents on the resistor plug

 

There is a lot of misinformation in this thread

For starters you never said which OBD you were running; let alone which injectors you have. Whether or not you need to run the resistor box or not is dependent on this information.

The Red/Black wires ABSOLUTELY DO NOT MATTER which injectors they go to. They supply the positive power to the injectors. The other wires that get grounded by the ECU do in fact matter (obviously).

 

I'm using injectors from a b18a1. I deleted the resistor box on the motor.

 

Is it possible to delete the resistor box and still have the car run good or would i have to use it? also would a d-series resistor box be different from a b-series one?