1/2" ARP head bolts/studs
Hi All,
I am having some issues with my head lifting at high boost, or at prolonged running (top speed) at slightly off peak boost. i am currently running stock sized ARP head bolts but it looks like they might not be enough.
My question is, and im just seeking confirmation of this, that the block/head would need machining to accept the larger 1/2" ARP studs/bolts?
If so then i wont do it as i dont want to take the engine out fully again, if they dropped right in then i would do it of course. Having never seen any though i would be assuming that the threads are different on then, hence the need for machining.
If anyone that has then in their engine can advise that would be great.
I am having some issues with my head lifting at high boost, or at prolonged running (top speed) at slightly off peak boost. i am currently running stock sized ARP head bolts but it looks like they might not be enough.
My question is, and im just seeking confirmation of this, that the block/head would need machining to accept the larger 1/2" ARP studs/bolts?
If so then i wont do it as i dont want to take the engine out fully again, if they dropped right in then i would do it of course. Having never seen any though i would be assuming that the threads are different on then, hence the need for machining.
If anyone that has then in their engine can advise that would be great.
692 on a conservative dyno Rich. (of your finest british bhp of course)
In truth the head lifting was not something that i had initially thought i would have to deal with in the build, but as its now making great power these things rear their head....As its just a drag car then it looks like i might just have to live with it and keep it in check.
In truth the head lifting was not something that i had initially thought i would have to deal with in the build, but as its now making great power these things rear their head....As its just a drag car then it looks like i might just have to live with it and keep it in check.
Look into these http://www.a1technologies.com/index_flash.php. Also did you treat the head gasket with copper spray.?
Who sleeved the block.? Are you running any sort of wire around the sleeves?
Who sleeved the block.? Are you running any sort of wire around the sleeves?
The block was sleeved at knight engines in northampton, they do/did a lot of work for prodrive etc, seem like they did a good job though.
Ill take a look at the link.
The tops of the sleeves i did grease to help sealing, when assembling. When you say treat the HG with copper spray do you mean a light dusting from about 30cm type of thing? I have some so i can certainly try that.
Sorry but what do you mean by wire around the sleeves?
Ill take a look at the link.
The tops of the sleeves i did grease to help sealing, when assembling. When you say treat the HG with copper spray do you mean a light dusting from about 30cm type of thing? I have some so i can certainly try that.
Sorry but what do you mean by wire around the sleeves?
I've never heard of anyone greasing either the hg or the surfaces. From my knowledge there both suppose to be oil and grease free.? (I could be wrong)
Yeah that's what i mean with the copper spray. You want a nice even coat.
Check this link out. http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/index....id=3&chapter=0 You need to click on block o ringing.
Yeah that's what i mean with the copper spray. You want a nice even coat.
Check this link out. http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/index....id=3&chapter=0 You need to click on block o ringing.
Rich is spot on, O-ringing the sleeves will benefit you in youre application. I Had mine oringed for added insurance. Basically they cut out a grove on the top of each sleeve. Hondas seems to go with the copper wire. This wire sticks out prob .003" or so and when the head is torqued down the wire provides a better bite into the gasket creating a better seal. There is also the option of using Stainless Wire, However with stainless wire you need to have a reciever grove cut into the head (alot of times copper headgaskets are used with that set-up, but not always) Copper is able to crush which is why a reciever groove is not needed with copper wire.
I also would Highly advise against any greasing of the sleeves, that could be youre problem right there....Should be a perfect Clean, Flat surface for the headgasket to seal correctly. With the exception of copper spray. O-ringing would require the block to come out of the car. So dont think youll go that route. Next HG change go OEM with copper spray. ARP studs you have on now should be fine for youre power level
I also would Highly advise against any greasing of the sleeves, that could be youre problem right there....Should be a perfect Clean, Flat surface for the headgasket to seal correctly. With the exception of copper spray. O-ringing would require the block to come out of the car. So dont think youll go that route. Next HG change go OEM with copper spray. ARP studs you have on now should be fine for youre power level
Trending Topics
isnt that the same thing as wills rings? i dont have those grooves anyway!!!
Im not sure that would stop the head lifting though would it?
Maybe the ARPs can be torqued down a little higher than stock to help counteract it anyway.
Im not sure that would stop the head lifting though would it?
Maybe the ARPs can be torqued down a little higher than stock to help counteract it anyway.
Have you re torqued the head studs or not?
no i havent, the heads coming off at the moment anyway to replace the HG irrespective, so i will be retorquing them down after that of course.
It may just be that they had let go of a little of their grip.
It may just be that they had let go of a little of their grip.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
oranginal
Honda Prelude
3
May 2, 2006 11:14 AM
civcexcoupeblack
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
2
Mar 23, 2003 01:22 PM




