its the d15 and it is dpfi. bought hte car two weeks ago, drove it 130 miles back home with a busted radiator cap, swaped new radiator in,new fuel filter (first new fuel filter on the car ever) changed the plugs, oil, cap and rotor, and plug wires, and cleaned the iacv. it sat for a week while i got new fuel injector o-rings,the old ones were dry rotted and cracked. i got it back together yesterday and she was running good till it blew a radiator hose. got a new one and started her, she was running good but was smokin a wee bit. now the car has always had a problem,it will run fine, but once you shut it off and start it back up, it runs like crap, kinda sounds like a lawn mower, and idles at about 200rpm and sometimes it dies. i pulled the plugs and they werent gapped right, dummy at vatozone says there pre-gapped....idiot. also the two plugs in the middle were wet oil/gas? but the two outside were bone dry, put the plugs back in and she still smokes and runs like poop. this car came bone stock, but the stock exhaust (after the cat) had a good sized hole in it, so i cut it off, thats when alot of these problems started. i dont think it would cause it to smoke like it is, the smoke doesnt smell like antifreeze, so im pretty sure its not a head gasket, theres no water in the oil, shoul i have replaced the thermostat along with the radiator? idk what to do im lost.

 

Do a leak down and compression test to see if you have bad rings or bad hg in between the cylinders

 

Do what this guy said ^^^ It could also be bad vavle stem seals.

 

i pulled the valve cver and i couldnt find any sign of antifreeze or water in with the oil. could this still be a head gasket? and if so on a scale of 1 to 10 how hard is it to replace on these motors?

what should i be lookiing for on the valve stem seals?

 

A hg can blow in-between cylinders and the only way to tell is a compression test. The smoke is more than likely coming from bad valve seals. Idk if you can look and tell if they are bad but if you replace the hg, get a hg set it has the valve seals in it also get a timing belt and water pump since you will already have them off and might wanna get the front seal too just for safe measures. As for how hard it is to change a hg, not hard at all, if you have the tools and know how. If you don't know how grab a hanes manual from autozone it has step by step instruction and trq specs. GL

 

thanks i dont have a garage so im doing all this work outside in the crazy new mexico weather.ive called and got a compression tester from vatozone for $40 and i get my mula back when im done. am i right on what the compression should be 145 155 150 140? thats just what ive found online that it should be at.

 

It should be around 150. some cylinders will vary but as long it is not a really big differance then you should be ok. Be sure to do a dry test and wet test. The diff is on the dry test no oil. Wet test you squirt a little bit of oil in there b4 the test. and make sure you hold the throttle all the way open and have all spark plugs out while you do the test.

 

good deal i appreciate all your info, ill do the compression test tonight and get back with the results. also the gentleman i bought the car off installed a cruise control on it, it doesnt work and ive traced all wires for it and it has another cable going to the throttle, since itr doesnt work i want to take it out. the cable he put on going to the throttle body is just wrapped around the throttle cable. should i run in to any problems by removing the cruise control setup? i know its not original.

 

I don't see why you would but i don't have any exp with it so....

 

since it doesnt work all it can do is help it, because he jerry rigged it on the throttle body it looks like doo doo, and the original throttle cable cant sit right

 

It should help it. just make sure to take everything off and fix it back like stock