I have a daily driven 2002 Honda Accord 2.3 with 95xxx miles. The check engine light recently came on and the local Autozone identified the code as "P1457, emission control system leak detected".

They listed the probable cause as one (or more) of the following:
1. Vapor canister saturated
2. Failed vent solenoid
3. Failed purge solenoid

Is the anyway to determine which component is causing the problem? Are all these of components located on the back of the engine block?

 

Evap systems can be tricky. It's hard to explain to someone without any sort of experience how to diagnose an Evap system properly. I can tell you the most likely causes for this code and those would be first the 2way valve+by-pass solenoid assembly and then the CVS valve. You could have other issues but those are the most common failure items. The 2 way valve and by-pass solenoid are sold separately but if you replace one I would do both.

 

Which manuals include the decision tree for narrowing down the various causes of this problem?


While searching on H-T, it seems that the most common source of the problem in cold weather areas is the EVAP bypass solenoid. If the decision tree does not yield a definitive answer, maybe replacing the EVAP bypass solenoid is the most prudent thing to do.

 

Not quite my friend. The bypass is rarely the failure item. The only reason to replace it most of the time is if it has raw fuel inside it. Thats why I told the gentleman to replace the two way and bypass for safety sake. If the bypass has fuel inside it can potentially ruin the PCM. The two way valve is actually the component that's fails most of the time. There is a diaphragm inside the loses it's ability I hold a vacuum. The factory troubleshooting is about 60 steps so good luck with that.

 

Thank you for your help Justin. I haven't had the oppurtunity to start poking around the car yet. Being a specialist, what would you suggest as the best course of action? Would you check that the bypass doesn't contain any fuel and then replace the two way valve?

 

Also, is there any online resource where I could find part numbers for these items?

 

I mean absolutely no offense to the original poster by this but diagnosing an EVAP DTC is not as easy as diagnosing a flat tire. You will be required to possess a variety of tools and have a thorough understanding of how to use each one. You will need a lot of time due to the complexity of the system and your current lack of knowledge of the system. The failures rarely reoccur on the same vehicle unless a repair was unsucessful so unless you plan on investing in your education as a professional technician and want to spend dozens if not hundreds of hours truely learning the EVAP system you will be much better served to pay a local professional technician to diagnose and repair your car.

 

No offense taken. I feel I have a moderate level of Hondas having done simple things such as changing the clutch and swapping in a Si trans on my old civic back in HS.

I have read other H-T posts on this P1457 issue; one in particular mentioned a $600 estimate from the Honda dealer for the diagnosis and repair of the EVAP system. If one component of the EVAP system is typically the culprit, such as the two-way valve mentioned above, I can try my hand at replacing this and potentially save quite a bit. If this doesn’t resolve the issue, then I will take the car to a local shop and pay them to solve the problem.

I have not purchased the manual yet so I can’t judge the complexity of replacing the two-way valve. Which manual(s) list the 60 step process? Does the electronic searchable manual sold on ebay include this flow chart?

 

The complexity and delicate and sensitive nature of the EVAP monitor can allow for a subtle and slight malfunction to cause a DTC. Which is why a truely thorough understanding of the system is required for diagnosis.

The system is physically not extremely complex and is quite easy to diagnose once the system is fully understood. Learning the system is what creates the difficulty with these DTC's, P1456 and P1457.

Replacing individual parts is not hard at all. Most parts, minus the components above the fuel tank are easy to access and service. If you want to replace the 2-way/bypass valve assembly you won't find it difficult.

 

The first response I said that the system is complex, the second post I said it wasn't. I am not trying to contradict myself, I'm trying to say that without understanding the system it is complex. Learning the system is difficult but once understood it becomes surprisingly simple.

 

I agree phootbag. I've spent countless hours diagnosing and researching evap systems on Honda/Acura vehicles. They can be very complex, most especially complex to your average DYI'er. It almost doesn't seem fair to give someone a list of parts to replace without diagnosing the car first, but I definitely won't spend all day writing diagnosing instructions for Evap. Without the proper tools, knowledge and training you simply do not need to try diagnosing it.

 

I recommend that you not waste your time trying to diagnose the car yourself if you don't have any training with Evap systems. It will leave you incredibly confused.

 

Based on the advice of my local Honda dealer I replaced the two-way valve and adjoining solenoid. I've driven a few short trip since the replacement and the check enine light is still on. Is it best to let the light shut itself off or should I pop the appropriate fuse, reset the computer, and wait to see if it comes back on again?

 

Dude it will take 30 total fault free trips for the PCM to turn the light out. Best thing to do is to reset the MIL yourself.

 

After replacing the solenoid and two-way valve the car has been driven a lot a of miles without the check engine light coming back. I want to make sure the problem is completely resolved and the car is not throwing the same code. Before the check engine light comes on for this EVAP problem, is the code typically thrown a few times to be certain the problem exists? Can I plug in an OBD2 reader and see if the code is there even though the check engine light isn't on?

 

Yes. If the EVAP readiness monitor reads complete and there are no codes the ECM has confirmed the system to be ok.

 

Can the problem still exist and the ecu have the P1457 code without the check engine light on? Must the P1457 code exist a certain number of drive times/miles before the check engine light comes back on?

 

Bump for an answer

 

Hi fomococo,

I have this same P1457 error code.

Did you notice any change in fuel efficiency after fixing this problem?

Thanks!
home777

 

For the past month my check engine light will come on for a few days then go off for a few days and then come back on and then go off. the P1457 code comes up. No one has mentioned this on / off nature on the check engine light. any ideas??

 

I have this code and took to local mechanic to diagnose with smoke test. He said I need to replace 2way valve and solenoid. I am unfamiliar with which specific parts these are. Does anyone know the part numbers? Are the following ebay items what I need to replace

ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OEM-Honda-Accord-Emissions-Two-Way-Valve-1998-2002-/400414241178?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories &fits=Year%3A2002%7CModel%3AAccord&hash=item5d3a8c 719a&vxp=mtr

ebay.com/itm/Evap-Canister-Bypass-Purge-Solenoid-Valve-for-3-2CL-3-2TL-Accord-Civic-Prelude-/130945280803?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories &fits=Year%3A2002%7CModel%3AAccord&hash=item1e7cf2 6b23&vxp=mtr

shes a 2002 accord dx 4dr 2.3l

oh, these items are under the vehicle correct? (not in engine compartment)?

 

Terms/names for these can be confusing - check an online Honda dealers web site to confirm.

Also suggest if you are going to do this that you get a good manual for your car. Try "automanualsource" - you can get a download for ~$22 (hope you have a good internet) or a CD shipped for ~$27.....well worth it.......it would have even told you how to test the codes and find the issue yourself

 

Sorry for the thread revival but I have the same code which has been on for a couple months. Intermittently it has had a hard time starting but will after a couple tries. Until now it wont at all. Just making sure this is the problem I need to address first since im getting fuel and fire but wont run.