Long story short I just bought a 1997 ek hatch with the stock d16y7. When I test drove it everything felt normal and the check engine light wasnt on. I drove it home and it starting bucking bad and idling funny. Find out that the guy before me ripped out the check engine light and sold it to me. I know it's idling funky because of the iacv. I hooked it up to a code reader and I got 7 codes. Fml

P1300
Random cylinder misfire
P050
Idle air control
P0302
Cylinder 2 misfire
P0141
02 heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2
P0301
Cylinder 1 misfire
P0304
Cylinder misfire
P1399
Multiple misfire

I changed the spark plugs and cleaned the idle air control valve but it still idles funky and bucks. So what should I do next? I really don't want to sink to much into this motor seeing as I want to swap in the near future but are there any other cheap alternatives?

 

How To Retrieve Check Engine Light (CEL) Codes/List of OBD1 CEL Codes
Sounds like my wife's hatch just before the engine went out.

 

My distributor bolts are loose and when I privet it it messes with my idle. Would that cause bucking?

 

The bolts shouldn't be loose. Set the ignition timing and go from there.

 

Is there a constant misfire? It will idle funky if there is a misfire present. Get a spark tester, and break out your multimeter. All a misfire is is the improper ignition of the air to fuel charge. So right away you know it's an ignition fault.

Does it idle differently when it's cold compared to when it's at operating temp?

 

yea buy a new IAC from a parts breaker will run like new for a 5th of the cost

trust me its good to have the ECL on because when it isnt and there is a problem then its bad f*****g days take my word on it.

 

when your idle warms up take of your air intake pipe so you can see into the IM and there will be two air ports on the windscreen side id the bottom one is sucking in anything more than a tiny amount of air then you will need to adjust the fast idle valve that sits below the manifold
great guide here i believe may fix problem

http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f55/...oblems-259965/

once you get the initial sensor fixed if the CEL goes away then you may have to look past the sensors and spark plugs and start looking into valve train issues but i imagine you will just swap sooner if that nonsence starts

 

How do I go about timing the ignition

 

do this first before replacing any parts.

 

Ok thanks. Should that stop the bucking. And I don't have a rpm guage so I
Feel like its going to be a pain

 

Also do a full ignition system tune up - plugs, wires, cap, rotor.