What's up guys? Long time lurker here, but I'm finally in a pickle. Lemme give you some background, I bought my teg 3yrs ago with hopes & dreams of building her right. Financially, I wasn't able to do it anymore. Its a 95 Ls w/ 95 GSR swap. All the boltons, etc..

Early winter, i took her out for her last ride to grab some gas & coffee. I ran inside to grab a cup or coffee, came out, and she wouldn't start. The fp wasn't priming. So I got her towed to my driveway & stored her for the winter.

Well, today I had some free time so I was able to look into it further. Since she's been sitting, the bat is only getting about 9-10vts but that still should be enough to test.

So I unplugged the FP, checked for power at the plug, nothing! Just to make sure, I hotwired a pos & neg straight from the battery to my FP and what do ya know, she was priming.

So now I am stumped. I hate electrical issues esp since I bought the car from another DIYer who let's just say half assed everything he possibly could.

I am 99.9% sure the main relay is working, I remember hearing it click twice. I don't think it is a soldering issue since this was winter, but should I check anyway? How do I go about doing so.

All the fuses under the hood look good. Either #5 or #7 looked a bit corroded, but I swapped it out with a new one and nothing. So that fuse was still good.

I did notice a shitton of white grease inside the plug for the FP but I assume its put there on purpose? Could it be so gunked up I'm not getting a connection? I doubt this but who knows..

Okay HT, where do I go for here? Please help!

- Jenger

 

9-10 volts is mad low you need more than 12 to start
The white stuff your seeing is electrical grease
As for your fp, check under the there is a fuse it. I think it's a 20a fuse named SRS something. It's an odd name and it's near the fuse puller

Hope that helps

 

I know 9-10 is mad low. Its been sitting all winter, but I STILL should get some type of reading at the FP plug.

I figured the grease was to eliminate oxidation so the connectors don't corrode away.

I am not sure what your talking about with this SRS fuse. I thought SRS was to do with air bags?

Are you talking about the fuses UNDER the dash? I don't think any of them have to do with the FP but I am not 100%. Last time I checked, they all were OKAY.

And if your talking about the ones under the hood, they all seem okay too.

 

Just checked all the leads going to main relay. All check out alright.

Yellow - always hot. reading about 9amps
blk/yellow - hot when in II pos. Reading about 8amps
blu/white - hot when cranking. Only reading about 4amps but I blame that on the weak battery.

Still, no power to FP.

Where do I go from here?

Main relay is A-OKAY.

Can someone tell me where the thermostat ground is?

 

PRAYING its not my ECU

 

Thermostat ground is fine..

Is there any way to check the ECU?

 

I'm referring to the fuse under the dash
I'm at work and I can't remember the call out for the fuse, but I do know it has an unusual name. 9-10 isn't enough mang, that pump needs 12v to be powered on. The main problem I see is the obvious, your battery is mad low! Change/charge the battery and we will see what's next.

 

I don't think that matters because I STILL should get some type of reading at the FP.

PLUS, I hot-wired the pump from the battery and it primed.

AND when it pooped out on me originally in late fall, the battery was good.

For ***** & giggles I have it sitting on a trickle charger now. We shall see, but I think your wrong, with all due respect.

Any other idea's??

 

if you've got power at the main relay, fuse is fine. pump should at least prime. pull the relay, energize it and test for continuity across the contacts.

 

Already did all that.

Hot wired the FP straight from the battery, it primed.

Main relay works perfect, I tested it with power & continuity. AND I am getting power on the correct leads going to the main relay (1 hot, 1 hot in II pos, 1 hot when cranking)

Thermostat ground is fine.

NO FUSES WERE BLOWN.

For ***** & giggles I have it on a trickle charger to get a full 12v, but I STILL should get a reading @ the FP even if its 3v.

Where do I go from here?

 

when you hot wired the pump, did you supply ground as well? or just power?
and when you checked for power at the pump, were you running the meter in line? or did you ground the neg lead?
if you didn't supply a ground for the pump when testing for power, check the pump ground. i believe i remember it being notorious to your specific application

 

I did not supply a ground when I hot wired the pump.

When I checked the plug, I stuck the both prongs of my meter in the plug. Should I do one and ground to the frame? Im gonna try that now.

And I think the ground your talking about is the thermostat ground? I checked that, it was perfect.

 

You need to chek the outputs of the PGM-FI Main Relay.

Yellow/white should be hot at all times.
Black/yellow should be hot when ign. is in run and start.
Blue/white should be hot only when cranking to start.
Yellow/black should be hot when ign. is in run and start, [fuel injector relay output]
Yellow/green should go hot for no more then a few sec. when ign. is turn on, [fuel pump relay output]

Just because the fuses are good, [3 of them] and the relay clicks, does not mean the PGM-FI Main Relay is good, both the outputs must also work.

If no power on the yellow/green, use a jumper lead to supply a ground directly to the green/blue lead, [fuel pump relay control] with ign. switch on, if pump primes, the PGM-FI Main Relay is good and the problem is the ECU/ECM related, [no fuel pump relay control signal]. 94

 

Yellow/white - Hot at all times
Black/yellow - Hot when ign. is in run and start.
Blue/white - Hot only when cranking to start.
Yellow/black - Hot when ign. is in run and start, [fuel injector relay output]

Yellow/green - Not going hot.

I am not too sure what u mean by using a jumper lead to supply a ground to the green/blue lead. I see a blue wire, I tried directly grounding it to my door bolt and nothing.

However, I jumped the yellow/white with the yellow/grn wire and the FP started priming.

Any thoughts?

 

Grounded the blue/green lead.. nothing.

Now what?

 

Do you now have 12.65V at the battery? I think you need at least 11V for the relay to close.

 

Yes

 

Follow this page for Main Relay testing:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainr...ing/index.html

In your case, the terminals are as follows:
1 - grn/blu (green wire/blue stripe)
2 - blu/wht
3 - blk
4 - yel/grn
5 - blk/yel
6 - yel/blk
7 - yel/wht

It should be obvious from the diagrams what needs to happen for the relays to be pulled closed.

Functionality info here:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainr...ing/index.html

 

You have an IM. 94

 

Ill double check the relay tomorrow..

Im starting to think that is it even though I tested it w/ continuity according to the service manual.

 

Just replaced the main relay with a new one.. Nothing.

Now what?

I am sooo stumped on this!!

 

Have you tried grounding the blue/green lead again? 94

 

I don't really see a blue/green wire. I see a green wire (could be green/blue) and I grounded it to my door bolt (where I have been grounding everything and turn the ign on and nothing.

Like I said before, If I directly hot wire the constant hot leg to the yellow/grn wire (the FP wire) I get it to prime.

Idk what this could be..

Brand new relay, nothing.

 

Okay okay.. So listen here..

I was reading thru the service manual and came across this.



I got a reading at the FP plug after jumping #4 & #5.

Replace FP??

 

Guys..

I replaced the main relay.. nothing

I replaced the fuel pump.. nothing.

When I jump #4 & #5 (from pic above, from service manual) I get the pump to run. According to that, that would require to swap the FP. I did that and still, nothing.

WHAT THE F*** could it be? I am soo stumped a frustrated guys. Can you please help?