I am putting the f22 crank/rods in my h22a1 to increase my stroke from 90mm to 95mm. I can visually see where my piston rings have always stopped. The top of the 90mm stroke is noticable when I run my finger or fingernail over it, BUT: It does NOT catch my finger nail at all. It is a perfectly smooth transition. But with my new longer stroke, my rings will now travel higher than the transition.

Please look at pics and tell me if you think it needs honed? I am scared to ask how much it will cost. I am considering the use of the finest sandpaper I can find, just so I can touch up the transition a bit and make it completely smooth.

 

yes, but i wouldnt try it yourself.

 

Can you feel it with ur fingernails?

 

i can barely feel the transition but, ya, I can feel it with my fingertips and even less with my finger nail. It does not even come close to snagging my finger nail. It is a very smooth transition....we are talking maybe only .001" transition..

 

that can be a lot when you're talking about spacing in your cylinders... best to have it professionally done. it looks like you've already put some time and money in it and you don't want to ruin it now do you?

 

btw, I am too scared to try the sandpaper...lol I knew i wouldn't do it. The shop is charging $70 to clean/polish the crank/rods and then to press the rods on the pistons. Guess I need to run it by there and ask if they hone FRM. I am gonna run out if they say "FR-what?"

What's a good price in central US (Texarkana, AR)? I have read prices are sky-high in metro areas, but this is the south....Everyone learns how to hone an engine in high school here..lol jk

 

use a ridge reamer... I think thats what its called in the manual..

 

Can I get one of those at autozone/oreillys/napa/etc? Is there a nickname that it goes by?

 

You should be able to pick one up from there.... and they are called Ridge Reamers. Thats it.

 

The manual specifically states when you do and do not need to hone, you do not always have to, not the same as iron.

 

The shop that is doin some work for me said they would hone it for $25. I asked if they did FRM and explained that FRM required "some kind of really fine stone, like a 600grit, at a very slow pace at like a 60 degree cross-angle or something" and they said they could handle it because they "have some of the very best equipment, even a 500 grit ......one of the finest available."

So I am gonna owe:

$50 - micropolish f22 crank/rods
$20 - press h22 pistons onto f22 rods
$25 - hone (if I trust them to do it)

From there, I will probably let them do the new rings and reassemble the block if they keep up the seemingly-low prices.

--TJ

 

Dont use a ridge reamer... you'll be sorry. Just said the same thing on different post, better make sure they know what they are working with. I'd use a graphite stone with silicone honing compound. Polishes it up smooth as glass. Most stones are made for cast iron... just a warning.

 

doesnt sound like they know what they are going to be working with you need to find someone who has worked with frm either honda or porsche

 

Dude, do yourself a favor and buy the Honda factory manual, goes over IF you need a hone and HOW to do it properly. Seriously not hard.

 

As much as I know you have a valid point, I am going to look for an "ignore" button so I don't have to watch you tell the next dozen people "go read the book". But I suppose that is the easy way to get 1,000 posts. If that is all you have to say, please don't post on my threads. (and please don't bother posting back and calling me names, etc....reading that would also be a waste of my time.)

--TJ

 

Sorry but you're just asking what is common info on this board, a quick search would've answered all your questions.

 

The posts are not just falling out of the sky from people using a longer stroke and worried about the transition where the previous ring-travel stopped. Usually the best search result was "if it catches your fingernail".

btw, this question was originally asked to figure out if this is considered "catching the fingernail" (more or less, that is what I was trying to figure out).

and lastly, I have already decided to hone. I am hoping this place really knows what they are doing. I am open to suggestions for FRM-honers around Texarkana, but I don't know what page of the manual that is on.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-prelude-4/how-have-frm-honed-2476019/ just saw this yesterday in another thread

 

Wellllll....here we are.....3 months later...3 shops later...about $800 spent... Still can't find a shop that is worth a penny, but they all made sure to take my time, and worse, my money!! At this last shop, I paid $200 for a hone and made sure he knew I needed that transition lip gone. But...of course..they only honed the lower part of the cylinder wall and I can't really tell that they even touched the transition lip.

I already know that I could have bought another motor. I didn't PLAN on getting ripped off by 2 horrible shops. I am about ready to say screw it and just: a) put it all together as is OR b) take a frigging piece of 1000grit sand paper and smooth it out myself... OR c) buy a h22 crank/rods and build a factory h22 (since the hone is ready for a factory build)

I am losing my mind over this and I am almost to the point where I just want to blow it up and send a rod flying over the MOON!!! But really, worst case situation with "a" or "b" is that I will screw up my piston rings and just have to rebuild, right?

 

and I forgot to mention. I only see cross-hatch on ONE of the four cylinder walls?? I was kind of expecting to see it on all four, riiighhhhtt?

 

I find it interesting you found 3 shops that would hone frm.

 

All three said they could. The first shop backed out at no charge. The second shop charged for misc fees, but then backed out of doing the hone. The third shop did the hone but didn't hone all the way to the top to smooth it out.

The first 2 shops are local and are the only ones in all of Texarkana that said they could do it. The third shop is one I found in Shreveport, LA (1.5hr away).

 

when dealing with FRM you NEED to take the factory service manual page in there that details how to hone FRM as it is VERY specific. Then ask the shop if they can do that exat procedure. Most will say no.

 

They called it "silicon lapping". I searched and found that alot of shops use that procedure so I sure hope that is just the proper name for "honing FRM".

 

I say this bc a lot if shops dont have a machine that is slow enough. Or they dont have the correct stone.