hey guys just need some thoughts on some issues im having.
motor and turbo setup:
81.5mm stock sleeve ls/vtec
Wiseco pistons 9.5:1 compression
Eagle rods
Jdm first gen B16 head
Dual valve springs/titanium retainers
Gsr cams
Blox intake manifold
Ctr throttle body
inline pro t3 manifold
Precision sc6152e
12x24x3 bmpc intercooler
2.5” charge piping all around
38mm wastegate
2.75 to 3”vband downpipe
Full 3” vband catless exhaust vibrant muffler
Stock ignition and wires
Ngk 8’s

fuel setup
Running e85
walbro 400lph rewired using a relay
-6 lines to fuel rail
40micron russells inline filter
Aem fuel rail
Fuel injector clinic 900cc injectors
Replica aeromotive regulator

s300

the problem is on the dyno the car falls flat on its face after 6k my tuner thinks its the
turbo which i bought off here second hand. I was "told" it has around 5k, It has absolutly no shaft play and spins freely. Holds wastegate pressure(9lbs) all the way to 8k.fuel pressure is fine and there are no apparent missfires. im really trying to rule it out out as the culprit before i spend close to 1k on a new turbo only to have the same issues.

 

I would do a compression test and leak down before replacing the turbo.... What valve train and how much boost?

 

whats the wideband say at 6k? can you post the fuel and ignition curves?

 

also are you sure vtec is working? and cam timing is correct.

 

If its falling on its face at 6k rpm with that turbo then vtec isnt working.

 

I was running open downpipe on the dyno vtec was definetly audible,no doubt about hearing the crossover...I have a feeling the cam timing might be off. Compression test yelded 180 across all four cylinders.

 

Does your dump tube vent to atmosphere or is it recirculate? beucas when the waste gate opens it sounds like vtec. Here is a video of my old LS engine and when booost builds and WG opens it sounds like hitting vtec pay attention to the sound

 

check if the vtec is engaging. At wath RPM your vtec is set?

 

It builds 9lbs before the crossover which is set at 5600 if I remember correctly..like I said no doubt about vtec working. I'm really thinking the cam timing is off I'm pretty sure the head was milled. When I swapped the b16 cams for gsr's the tdc marks on the crank pulley and cam gears werent lining so placed a long screw driver down the spark plug hole to find tdc and lined them up that way..I asked my tuner if was possible the could be off by a tooth and he said not likely as the motor started up and idled fine...I do remember when my previous gsr was off a tooth it started up and drove fine with almost the exact symptoms I'm having now..I going to seek another tuner to time the motor correctly and tune it

 

If its milled the cams will show as retarded slightly instead of straight up

 

I had a h2b that had the intake cam off a tooth that started and idled fine but it made 130whp on the dyno. it was a combo of that and vtec not working that made the low numbers.

 

This sounds like the same problems I've been having with my LST. I'm hoping that the main issue was that the ignition was falling off in the upper RPM's, but I haven't been back to the dyno yet after making a lot of changes.

My head has also been milled, but my timing belt seems to go on and line up just fine the way it it. When I go back, I will have adjustable cam gears (with new cams), so I'll have to see how that goes on the dyno.

 

you would have to mill the head a **** load to get it to throw cam timing off far enough to make a big deal like this.

 

So I got some free time to go look at the car and this is what I found this is the crank pulley at tdc

And these are the camgears in relation to the crank pulley at tdc(didn't have to take off the valve cover to know their off)

 

lol.

 

did your tuner even try to set base ignition timing....?

 

nope...

 

Dern! Haha

 

And what pisses me off is I asked him could they off.silly me for trusting a reputable tuner..its not his fault there off but suppose I took his advice and bought a new turbo then came back what the f*$k would he have told me then? I hoping none of the valves are bent

 

He shouldve tried to set base timing at 16 degrees before he started tuning anyways. I would go to another tuner! Also read through the help file in hondata (if thats what you are using) and it will give you an idea on what things should be done prior to the actual tune.

 

That doesn't mean necessarily that the tuner is bad place to be. It may have not been part of the agreement between tuner and owner. People believe that it is the tuner's inherent job to make sure everything mechanical is sound before they start working on the tune free of any additional charge, holding him solely responsible. Its really the responsibility of the owner to ensure that everything is mechanically sound (including base timing) before the tuner gets started, unless it was agreed upon by both the tuner and owner to go over the car several times before starting; this is why many tuners of legitimate businesses have a waiver for the owner to sign.

Sure, a once over and some questions is expected, but to think that the tuner "must" do the job of adjusting things for them without an additional fee is not realistic.

 

any good tuner should sync base timing with the ecu. I agree with you that it wasn't the tuners job to go over the whole car to make sure cam timing was right but 98% of honda owners either don't know how or don't have the tools to properly sync the timing with the ecu.

 

I think you mean every good tuner should have a requirement of understanding that base timing should be in sync with the ECU. Not that they should do it for them, unless the customer was unsure of the car he bought or setup itself.

 

is it even possible for the cams to be off that much and the engine to run?

 

its a saftey step that takes 2 minutes at the most that could help prevent popping someones motor. I think every good tuner will do it them selves to prevent any mishap like this.