So I just replaced the alternator in my EM1. I did have the original 70 amp one, but I found the GSR was 90 amps and it was $40 cheaper. So now the car idles all kinds of funny. Car runs fine when cold.

First, it sounds like a vacuum leak. Revving to 2000 then drops to 1000 and will do this for 2 or 3 times when I open the clutch coming to a stop. Then it idles kinda high (1200-1500)

Secondly, sometimes it'll stay at 1600rpm and bounce constentily from 1600-1650. It sounds like a techno song.

Wat do?

 

Get the correct alternator for starters.

 

CEL codes?

Sounds like a vacuum leak. Start by checking for any disconnected hoses, like cruise control or brake booster.

 

How did you develop a vacuum leak by changing alternators?

 

If you've ever taken an alternator out of em1, you wouldn't be surprised.

Yes, it is throwing a code but haven't had the time to check it yet.

 

I've change my own alternator. It wasn't a B-series so I don't know what that is even supposed to mean.

 

This should've been the first step, before starting thread!

 

If its only doing it closed loop it sounds like something there then a vacuum leak

 

May sound simple but I'd try resetting the Ecu? 20 amp difference maybe "toying" with the 70 amp specs? Just a suggestion,best of luck.

 

I will check the code tomorrow. But also reset the ecu also. I was thinking I should do it, but I just haven't had the time...

 

Haven't had the time? How important is your car to you?

 

You have time. Takes 5 or ten minutes tops and a paperclip.

 

even faster if you know someone with a Check Engine Auto Scanner

 

From dealing with Jeeps and Adding high AMP alternators, people say higher output would create no harm, as the system only draws the needed AMPS at the time, NOT always supplying full amperage......

Just a thought.....

 

Clean the ivac

 

Sorry that I spend 12 hours a day working on jets that help protect your freedom so you can say whatever you like to say. I'll make sure to work on my car so I can be happy than work to continue to support your freedom.

 

Not true. I'm running a 165 amp alternator right now. Have been for nearly 5 years now.

 

Cut the BS. The time you've spent posting on this thread you could have pulled the code. I've taught my wife to do it on her car and the longest it takes her is 5 minutes. That includes pulling the plastic cover off to get to the connector. There's always time. if there's not then take it to a mechanic.

 

Plus one to both.
I am running a 99 Integra Ls Alt in my 98 Civic on a Ls Vtec with P28 S100, no issues running a larger Alt in my car. I did have dimming headlights at idea with the stock OBD2 P75 ECU back when the car was untuned and a straight LS.

 

I work 7-7 (mostly 8-9) and I can't go to advance in my uniform. So I have to go back to the room, shower and hope to get over there before they close.

Havent bought a code reader. And I take breaks, where I get on. So no I haven't had time.

 

You can do it with a paperclip!!! You have to go to Advanced to get a paperclip?
I pull down 40 hours and have a class overload of 16 and I still manage to maintain my car.

 

Cool story bro.

 

Well I was able to go today and get the codes. Here they are.

P0505
P0325
P0420
P1457
P0505

Yes, 2 505's showed up. These have no coorilation with each other. Idk why all of this would just show up. They weren't there before I changed the alternator out.

 

P0505 = Idle Control system problem
P0325 = Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Problem
P0420 = Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold
P1457 = This code is unique to Honda, You would need to contact/look up what this code is.
P0505 = Idle Control system problem

 

Google works....