I have a 97 Integra LS with a Greddy 18G turbo kit on it, 24v FMIC. So I installed a Greddy Intelligent Informeter about a week ago, and it plugs into your OBD2 port, and gives you many different read outs, one being an up-to-the-second engine temp. I went out on the highway yesterday, with it being about 45 degrees outside, and within 5 minutes, my engine temp was up to 220 degrees! And it wasn't going down at all either. I wasn't hitting boost, babying the throttle, and my AFR was 14.5-15 the entire time. The engine temp needle on my gauge cluster didn't even read past halfway. So I stop at an Auto Zone, pop the hood, and the fan isn't even spinning. Auto Zone of course doesn't have a cooling fan relay that I could test to see if that was blown, and they couldn't test to see if the fan motor was getting current either. We looked in my coolant reservoir notice it is almost empty. I top it off with coolant, and drive 10 miles back home, engine temp still at 220+. Once engine cooled down, I check under the hood and my reservoir is almost empty again, but my radiator is still full. Guy at Auto Zone told me that even if my fan wasn't working, that at highway speeds and it being only 45 degrees out, that the engine temp should not be running anywhere near that. And I also know that my FMIC does block a lot of the direct airflow to the radiator, but it shouldn't be that much? What are some things you guys think I should look at? Things that might be broken/bad?

 

I replaced the coolant, put a bypass so that the fan runs all the time, and engine temp soars up to 220 degrees on the highway! Could it possibly be a bad thermostat? What are some signs of a dying water pump?

 

Water pumps don't "die" they just leak. I would get a second opinion if you will on that temp readout. What ems are you running

 

t-stat could be stuck closed.....

 

Head gasket.

 

I am running stock ECU with Greddy Emanage piggyback.


The thermostat is in between the radiator hose and the block correct? Also if the thermostat is stuck closed, would that stop the fan from turning on?


And the headgasket, why do you think that? I did just change the oil and coolant, and it did not seem to me like there was any milkiness in either.

 

because it's obviously consuming coolant...

 

1. did you bleed the cooling system after replacing the coolant?
2. you resivoir could have a hole or a crack in it.

If you know anything about relays, you can remove the relay, and supply voltage where the relay would out put voltage to the fan. if it works then your problem is on the control side of the relay. if it doesnt work then disconnect the electrical connector at the fan, and use some jumper wires to supply a ground and 12V, if the fan doesnt work then you have a bad fan motor.

it is possible you have a leak, you should do a pressure test, and see if the pressure drops indicating a leak.
if you have no leak, and the fan works, replace the thermostat.

 

UPDATE:

So after driving the car a few miles after replacing the oil and coolant, and supplied voltage to the fan so that it would run constantly, the car still ran really hot (220+ according to the Greddy Informeter, my stock temperature gauge still didn't read past halfway.)

So this morning I went back to check out to see if the thermostat was stuck:



Taking off the radiator hose, I found that there wasn't even a thermostat inside:





My question is since there isn't even a thermostat, coolant should flow through the block to radiator all the time right? Is the t-stat what controls the turning on of the fan as well? If I have no t-stat, is there another temperature sensor where the Informeter is reading from?

Here is a picture of my coolant and oil after the changes:





Do they look murky and contaminated to you?

I CAN ALSO TAKE MORE PICS OF ANYTHING ELSE IF YOU NEED

 

LOL thats not where the thermostat is. Check the other Radiator hose on the back of the block.

 

Oops, I misread this thread about radiator hose and thermostat replacement: http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...placement.html

I will check the thermostat in a couple minutes.

 

Pulled the thermostat out, is the way to test if it works is to put it in boiling water and see if it opens?

 

You are probably overheating because of the intercooler blocking the radiator. Does it mostly happen on the highway?

If so, you just need to throw a pusher fan in there and that should fix the problem.

 

If your stock temp gauge is reading correctly, I would suspect a problem with your piggy back management. You could get a temp gun and use that to measure the coolant temps of the radiator hoses to see which one is wrong ( stock or infometer).

 

Usually when 220 the stock gauge will move up. Replace the thermostat with a Honda one not aftermarket. See how it goes from there. I still think you need to ditch that piggyback

 

Replaced the thermostat and now engine temps are running in the 180s finally. The fan still does not turn on. At what temp does the cooling fan relay switch on the fan? And I know I will be looking into a chipped ECU asap.

 

spal puller = 30102044

this is a must have....

 

I cant rember what temp it kicks on....It took my car over 20 min at idle to activate the fan.

If your going with a new ECU you have plenty of good options, I'm running hondata s300, and you can change the temp that the fan turns on!