I just ordered a bluetop 23 and i have the complete h22a4 still but it exploded, im new to ludes and I got a damn sh will my ecu work and how much wiring is involved I dont need details just wanna get a general idea of what to expect any help would be very helpful

 

good engine

 

I was always told that the Base model Prelude's engine won't bolt up to an SH tranny, and vice versa.

I just put one of these blue-top engines into my car, and I don't have an SH. The tranny bolts up like the Base model H22Z1 I had.

You may have some issues with this swap

See this thread for reference:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-prelude-4/type-sh-base-comparison-why-sh-needs-its-own-block-code-%2Apics-inside%2A-1081801/

 

So hows it coming? i just finished mine and just need a tensioner so it getting jacked up right now for a new timing belt and idler pulley. The lude is more fun to drive! And ive build all motors for this car and this stock engine pulls NICE. Of course not like an all motor but still real good. I did convert it to obd1 and and going to tune it after i do the timing belt. if you need help let me know ill help you out since its all very fresh in my head. I got it running last night and hit turnbull canyon right away lol great tq response

 

You need a different transmission, halfshaft and axles. Also everything else you'd need to make a JDM OBD2 engine work in a USDM OBD2 car since sensor locations are different.

 

Its the same as any other JDM swap into any other SH.

 

^not really. There are ATTS equpped JDM swaps. Plus there are few differences with the H23 since it's an accord engine.

OP: You will need a base model or non ATTS trans. The SH trans will bolt right up to the H23 block. But you won't be able to drive the driver's side axle shaft. Hence the need for a base model trans.

Swap over your fuel rail and injectors.

Swap over your intake manifold and sensors. You can use the H23 TB as it is a larger diameter (same as S2000 or ITR).

You can re-use your SH axles. You can re-use your SH ECU. I did the H23 Bluetop swap into an SH last summer/fall.

Buy a USDM oil pump. Re-use your crank sensor from your old motor. Then just plug everything into your stock harness. You'll also need to swap out the driver's side upper motor mount bracket with the one from your old motor.

You'll also need to grind down the trans stiffener bracket slightly to clear the oil pan. This will become obvious as you try to bolt it on.

 

But this model of Accord didn't come with ATTS, so that is not really relevant.
Just like swapping any other JDM engine into an SH.

Do I need to say it?
Just like swapping anything else in from a JDM car to USDM car.
This is legitimately the only difference and a small one at that.
I am not trying to be argumentative, just to present the facts.
Good luck OP!

 

thanks for the imput I have a t2t4 trans I bought that off top when i got the car I really just wanted to know if I could use me ecu and stay obd2 with the jdm dizzy I dont trust a usdm oil pump

 

your ecu will work just fine..
but as far as staying obd2, you would have to change out the jdm oil pump and use the h22 a4 components (the cfk, cpk) sensors in the oil pump.
you can however bypass this by not using the usdm oil pump and run the sensor bypass. by using the jdm (td-60 internal coil) distributor or the usdm external coil (td-61u)
pm me if you want the wiring schematic (or i can sell u one for 10 shipped) this way you can just plug it in and go.
I have a h23vtec in my 99 sh canadian model with a f22 trans (waiting to turbo)

 

cool stuff guys the engine just arrived today I thought i got an uncut harness till i looked at the starter wires
all in all though im pleased with the purchase got it from jdm engine zone paid monday recived wednesday couldnt be any better service. $
1155 shipped

 

That's a decent price... I paid $850 CDN cash, but I picked up the engine myself.

You will be happy with it.

 

the stock jdm manifold looks to be better made than the dc sports I have anyone have

 

Actually he was elaborating your bs "just like any Jdm swap" statement. You are being argumentive, and your vague *** answers aren't helping anyone. My advice? Gtfo.

 

ive started reading up on this ckp and tdc sensor bypass. this is what im working with, td94u and td77u dizzys the 94u is the jdm h23a 99' obd2 internal coil with icm and an unknown cpk maybe? the 77u is the usdm 00' external coil icm inside also no mystery sensor or whatever. obd2 ecu stock 00sh whatever that is. i dont care what is required to keep the usdm pump off my engine ill do it, is that possible staying obd2 and/or using my oem ecu?

 

Easiest way that usually costs more but depending if you have the spare parts is to use a USDM external coil distributor and oil pump from an H22a4.

 

will not use usdm oil pump i just refuse it rather sell my h and buy a k

 

^Do you really think it's not as good as the JDM? Because if so you are so very wrong, they are identical, I have a one from a 35k mi Type S in my tool box, disassembled it and there is absolutely no difference.

Main reason why making a JDM engine have the sensor locations as a USDM engine is

1) You don't have to hack your wiring harness, a good way to have troubles down the road

2) If you have someone other than yourself work on your car they wont have any trouble diagnosing it since the sensors will be located where the manual tells them to be

 

ive had one fail twice on me its the reason im swapping, I got it squared away though I think. ill never sell my lude :p

 

Yeah...I'm not getting the hang up on the USDM pump. Did you buy a new OEM one or did you just use a used H22A4 pump?

 

Whatever it was, I say user error, I've never seen first hand a Honda oil pump failure. If they were used ones you should've checked them before using them. Seen them disassembled and checked even with high mileage still being on the good end of the spectrum when it came to things like clearances.

 

how i recived the car, im just gonna stick with the jspec one without the sensors

 

yo we just did that same **** bluetop into a 2000 prelude. the problem is the ecu has an immobilizer, so u have to leave that bitch in there. or have the immobilizer removed. we left it, so that destroyed our obd-1 conversion idea. so we stayed obd-2. The other issue is the oil pump sensor on U.S. obd-2 motors which is on your h22a4, jdm motors dnt have the sensor on the oil pump its inside the dizzy. we ended up putting a new Usdm oil pump with sensor on the h23a bluetop, it works no prob. but before that we cranked and ran the car the first week on the jdm h23a internal coil dizzy, but it only has one plug and less wires and is internal coil. u can jump the coil plug with a piece of wire run the oil pump wires to the jdm one-plug dizzy and jump the tach signal off another wire. its pretty complicated. next we got an obd-1 h23 non-vtec dizzy, used the stock external coil again an reused the oil pump sensor to dizzy wiring. car ran good but kept a constant check engine light for random cyl. misfire. but you could not feel or tell by driving it. car ran great hit vtec and all. trying to get rid of the check engne light we did the U.S. obd-2 oil pump conversion and went back the obd-2 four wire external coil U.S. prelude dizzy and the car still runs great but still has a check engine light for rand cyl misfire. still cant feel it idles great hits vtec and all. also the car is a sportshift auto. so what i would do is check into an ecu immobilizer and a jumper harness and h23a bluetop ecu or some hondata on an obd-1 ecu to try and get the car running with no cels. but yea it works jus a lil complicated our car still runs with a cel and has been for two years on the stock h22a4 auto ecu. also we had to swap the h22 top half of intake manifold onto the h23a bottom half to use the h22 two wire idle air control becuz the h23a uses a 3-wire. hope that helps bro. ROLL TIDE

 

I was wondering about that immobilzer and the iacv, I wasnt sure if I should just swap whole mannis or not. ive got a rywire remake sensor bypass coming. I know most people are swapping whole intake manifolds would I be better off doing that or just the upper

 

I swapped the whole manifold. Also, the immobilizer is in the ECU. So...why couldn't you change to OBD1 if you wanted? If you did an OBD1 conversion, the ECU would no longer have an immobilizer. So the car would start up just fine.


For the guy who did the swap on an automatic prelude...you'd have more trouble switching to OBD1 because of the sport shift rather than the immobilizer.

Either way, I wouldn't recommend revving the car past about 7500RPM with whatever ECU you choose to run.