Need Advice on gsr purchase!!
I need some advice from others that have good knowledge with integras. I am currently looking at this gsr : http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/2874283446.html
I have been talking to this guy for a few days about his gsr. We are meeting up Thursday so I can look at it but I was wondering if his pricing is a little steep? He said he would throw in 4 new rota gt3's if the price was right. I asked him what he wanted and he said $4,200 w/ the Rota's. Without the Rota's hes asking $3,800. The stage 2 clutch that's in it now is F1 Racing,I did some research on HT about it and the overall review was poor. Anyways IF anyone can help me out that would be great.
I have been talking to this guy for a few days about his gsr. We are meeting up Thursday so I can look at it but I was wondering if his pricing is a little steep? He said he would throw in 4 new rota gt3's if the price was right. I asked him what he wanted and he said $4,200 w/ the Rota's. Without the Rota's hes asking $3,800. The stage 2 clutch that's in it now is F1 Racing,I did some research on HT about it and the overall review was poor. Anyways IF anyone can help me out that would be great.
Last edited by placebo234; Mar 13, 2012 at 02:20 PM.
First things first, gotta ask him what maintenance has been done and when.
1- timing belt, water pump, tensioner, etc and when the last time basic tune up was done
2- any documentation of maintenance or repairs, ask if head was ever removed, motor pulled, etc
Look for oil leaks anywhere, oil pan, back of block, under head, passenger side of head near distributor and where head meets block are common areas. Check the oil and coolant, looking for water in oil (milky looking) or oil in the coolant.
That's all I can think of off the top of my head, good luck with it. Just know that the timing belt is supposed to be changed every 105k miles or 7 years, whichever comes first.
1- timing belt, water pump, tensioner, etc and when the last time basic tune up was done
2- any documentation of maintenance or repairs, ask if head was ever removed, motor pulled, etc
Look for oil leaks anywhere, oil pan, back of block, under head, passenger side of head near distributor and where head meets block are common areas. Check the oil and coolant, looking for water in oil (milky looking) or oil in the coolant.
That's all I can think of off the top of my head, good luck with it. Just know that the timing belt is supposed to be changed every 105k miles or 7 years, whichever comes first.
Is that rust I see at the rear wheel arch?
I have any used car that I am thinking of buying checked by a mechanic, most small independent shops will do a go over for $50-$100, some even less, they should look at suspension, brakes, drive-train, do a compression test and a general look-see of the mechanical condition of the car.
If a seller will not let you take the car to a mechanic of your choice, walk away, there is a reason he would not.
Also a list, from a mechanic, on things that need to be done now and things that need doing sooner then later is a good bargaining tool, and any money spent on the mechanic now is a lot better then finding out you need hundreds of dollars in work once you have the car.
G3s rust at the rear wheel arches, even if you do not see rust, reach under the lip and pull the arch protector off so you can eyeball the lip the protector is on, that's where the rust starts and why it starts, the protector holds dirt and moisture against the metal lip.
Obviously you will test drive the car when you take it to the mechanic and back so you can get a good idea of how it runs, how the transmission is, [all gears] so city streets and highway test drive.
Personally, I would never buy a car that has been modded in any way, although hard to find I would look for a one owner car, totally stock, owned by an older person, even better if it is a little old lady.
Here is a nice one I found, one owner 93 RS, stock except for the rims the dealer installed. 94
I have any used car that I am thinking of buying checked by a mechanic, most small independent shops will do a go over for $50-$100, some even less, they should look at suspension, brakes, drive-train, do a compression test and a general look-see of the mechanical condition of the car.
If a seller will not let you take the car to a mechanic of your choice, walk away, there is a reason he would not.
Also a list, from a mechanic, on things that need to be done now and things that need doing sooner then later is a good bargaining tool, and any money spent on the mechanic now is a lot better then finding out you need hundreds of dollars in work once you have the car.
G3s rust at the rear wheel arches, even if you do not see rust, reach under the lip and pull the arch protector off so you can eyeball the lip the protector is on, that's where the rust starts and why it starts, the protector holds dirt and moisture against the metal lip.
Obviously you will test drive the car when you take it to the mechanic and back so you can get a good idea of how it runs, how the transmission is, [all gears] so city streets and highway test drive.
Personally, I would never buy a car that has been modded in any way, although hard to find I would look for a one owner car, totally stock, owned by an older person, even better if it is a little old lady.
Here is a nice one I found, one owner 93 RS, stock except for the rims the dealer installed. 94
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