Largest turbo trim I can fit on a b16 without grinding some off the block
Will a 50trim t3/t4 turbo fit without cutting into block
I know it will fit with the comp housing facing driver side
But will it face passenger side fine?
I know it will fit with the comp housing facing driver side
But will it face passenger side fine?
hell you can throw it on the valve cover no cutting needed
now please list the entire build so we can help you out alot more
now please list the entire build so we can help you out alot more
ahhhh this will get you help faster, and unfortunately it aint me i have never had experience with a ramhorn sorry man
You mean the largest size COMPRESSOR HOUSING (not "trim") that you can fit without notching the block... Is that what you're referring to?
I'm also assuming you mean with the compressor housing facing the passenger fender? The answer? A T04B cover will fit without block work. (That doesn't mean that the compressor wheel size is limited to that, which does cost additional, but I was attempting to answer your question directly.).
I'm also assuming you mean with the compressor housing facing the passenger fender? The answer? A T04B cover will fit without block work. (That doesn't mean that the compressor wheel size is limited to that, which does cost additional, but I was attempting to answer your question directly.).
Let me redue it..
I have a b16
I already bought a ramhorn manifold for it
My friends is going to sell me a t3/t4 50trim turbonetics stage 2 wheel for cheap
I know for sure it will fit without a problem with the intake on the drive side fender
I just am not sure if it will fill with the compressor housing facing passenger fender with hitting the block
I have a b16
I already bought a ramhorn manifold for it
My friends is going to sell me a t3/t4 50trim turbonetics stage 2 wheel for cheap
I know for sure it will fit without a problem with the intake on the drive side fender
I just am not sure if it will fill with the compressor housing facing passenger fender with hitting the block
Not sure why you would want to run the compressor side on the right.
A. Anytime you are running open housing (ie. no filter/pipe for racing) you are intaking hot air from the radiator. Aswell as running an intake pipe across the rad will heatsoak it.
B. The downpipe will have to make almost a 180* turn to run properly under the shallow section of the oilpan. Aswell as having some haggard contraption for oil return.
C. Routing the hotpipe around the downpipe is useless unless wrapped and is more likely to heatsoak.
D. If you stated you know it will fit no problem facing the "proper" direction (left), why are you asking about fitting it the other way with regards to notching the block.
E. I don't get the reasoning of this thread!?!?
A. Anytime you are running open housing (ie. no filter/pipe for racing) you are intaking hot air from the radiator. Aswell as running an intake pipe across the rad will heatsoak it.
B. The downpipe will have to make almost a 180* turn to run properly under the shallow section of the oilpan. Aswell as having some haggard contraption for oil return.
C. Routing the hotpipe around the downpipe is useless unless wrapped and is more likely to heatsoak.
D. If you stated you know it will fit no problem facing the "proper" direction (left), why are you asking about fitting it the other way with regards to notching the block.
E. I don't get the reasoning of this thread!?!?
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Not sure why you would want to run the compressor side on the right.
A. Anytime you are running open housing (ie. no filter/pipe for racing) you are intaking hot air from the radiator. Aswell as running an intake pipe across the rad will heatsoak it.
B. The downpipe will have to make almost a 180* turn to run properly under the shallow section of the oilpan. Aswell as having some haggard contraption for oil return.
C. Routing the hotpipe around the downpipe is useless unless wrapped and is more likely to heatsoak.
D. If you stated you know it will fit no problem facing the "proper" direction (left), why are you asking about fitting it the other way with regards to notching the block.
E. I don't get the reasoning of this thread!?!?
A. Anytime you are running open housing (ie. no filter/pipe for racing) you are intaking hot air from the radiator. Aswell as running an intake pipe across the rad will heatsoak it.
B. The downpipe will have to make almost a 180* turn to run properly under the shallow section of the oilpan. Aswell as having some haggard contraption for oil return.
C. Routing the hotpipe around the downpipe is useless unless wrapped and is more likely to heatsoak.
D. If you stated you know it will fit no problem facing the "proper" direction (left), why are you asking about fitting it the other way with regards to notching the block.
E. I don't get the reasoning of this thread!?!?
^^ True, although it is a general rule of thumb. Why make things harder than they have to be. Why assemble a kit from the get-go that will "potentially" perform sub-standard.
Let me redue it..
I have a b16
I already bought a ramhorn manifold for it
My friends is going to sell me a t3/t4 50trim turbonetics stage 2 wheel for cheap
I know for sure it will fit without a problem with the intake on the drive side fender
I just am not sure if it will fill with the compressor housing facing passenger fender with hitting the block
I have a b16
I already bought a ramhorn manifold for it
My friends is going to sell me a t3/t4 50trim turbonetics stage 2 wheel for cheap
I know for sure it will fit without a problem with the intake on the drive side fender
I just am not sure if it will fill with the compressor housing facing passenger fender with hitting the block
Regardless, DELshaneSOL, you will more than likely have to use a grinder and notch the webbing of the block in order to fit any T3/T04E compressor cover, whether it has a smaller 2.112" stage 2 exhaust wheel or 2.559" stage 3 exhaust wheel of a 50 trim (though a "Ramhorn" manifold won't really be able to provide the use of anything due to the turbo being so small what it seems you're looking for.)
This is why I stated that any turbocharger that utilizes (or can be modified to fit) the T04B compressor cover will be the one that has a tendency to not need the webbing of the block notched. But I'd be more concerned about the overall size of the turbo that you're using in order to warrant the use of a "Ramhorn" manifold in the first place.
Good luck to you.
If its not an a/c friendly manifold he should run the turbo with the compressor on the drive side of the vehicle, this will not require and block grinding and dp fitment is better and more widely available. He will be able to fit pretty large housings with it this way.
If he absolutly has to run it the other way for some really strange reason then an e cover will fit with very minimal grinding.
If he absolutly has to run it the other way for some really strange reason then an e cover will fit with very minimal grinding.
My dp that I have comes out driver side wraps underneath and goes back as normal, this is the only reason why,
As you guys said there's no reason and it's better to have the intake facing driver side, then I guess a new dp is in lol
As for no filter, with it being that low I'm not sure If it will suck in water so I'm making a pipe to bend up into the hole by the fender
As you guys said there's no reason and it's better to have the intake facing driver side, then I guess a new dp is in lol
As for no filter, with it being that low I'm not sure If it will suck in water so I'm making a pipe to bend up into the hole by the fender
The Go-autoworks ramhorn I just got second hand required me to notch a good chunk out of the a/c bracket (which you kind of have to keep if you like your torque mounts).
I also had to notch a part of the valve cover stud flange as a warning to anyone with an LS head...
I also had to notch a part of the valve cover stud flange as a warning to anyone with an LS head...
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