00 accord transmission slip?
just earlier today my 00 accord lx 4dr, auto transmission, started to pull some funny stuff on me..
When shifting gears at around 3500-4k rpms it starts to jerk before it get's into gear.. I also noticed that when going up hill or giving it some extra gas it doesn't down shift properly. I took a video to better show exactly what is going on..
http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/h...t=IMG_0629.mp4
^ above is the link to the video that I took.. please watch
I have already changed the transmission fluid.. hoping that was the problem
but am starting to fear the worst.. thank you
When shifting gears at around 3500-4k rpms it starts to jerk before it get's into gear.. I also noticed that when going up hill or giving it some extra gas it doesn't down shift properly. I took a video to better show exactly what is going on..
http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/h...t=IMG_0629.mp4
^ above is the link to the video that I took.. please watch
I have already changed the transmission fluid.. hoping that was the problem
but am starting to fear the worst.. thank you
5 speed swap is the only way to go when they go,I think eventually all automatics in the 98-02 accords fail. Yours sounds like the begining of the almighty 6th gen auto tranny failure ......Honda made a bad design .
The best you can do is do the oem honda tranny fluid change 3qts and do it 3 times after driving a few hundred miles and pray it will last,
My tranny leaks and does a rough shift with a slight pause from 1st to 2nd gear and slips 100 rpms 2nd to 3rd only when its cold and when it stops it does a hard jerk when weather is hot and a slight bump when its cold.....but either way i cant drive off till i feel the bump lol.......but mine has done this for 15,000 miles and still going hasnt got worse or better but if i turn the a/c off in the hot summer it will slip and not go anywhere untill i turn the a/c on i assume its overheating and when i turn the a/c on the fans kick on and it cools the temp down......but i only need mine to last till August because im doing a manual tranny swap i got most the parts already that would be my suggestion get a 5 speed tranny swap going
The best you can do is do the oem honda tranny fluid change 3qts and do it 3 times after driving a few hundred miles and pray it will last,
My tranny leaks and does a rough shift with a slight pause from 1st to 2nd gear and slips 100 rpms 2nd to 3rd only when its cold and when it stops it does a hard jerk when weather is hot and a slight bump when its cold.....but either way i cant drive off till i feel the bump lol.......but mine has done this for 15,000 miles and still going hasnt got worse or better but if i turn the a/c off in the hot summer it will slip and not go anywhere untill i turn the a/c on i assume its overheating and when i turn the a/c on the fans kick on and it cools the temp down......but i only need mine to last till August because im doing a manual tranny swap i got most the parts already that would be my suggestion get a 5 speed tranny swap going
5 speed swap is the only way to go when they go,I think eventually all automatics in the 98-02 accords fail. Yours sounds like the begining of the almighty 6th gen auto tranny failure ......Honda made a bad design .
The best you can do is do the oem honda tranny fluid change 3qts and do it 3 times after driving a few hundred miles and pray it will last,
My tranny leaks and does a rough shift with a slight pause from 1st to 2nd gear and slips 100 rpms 2nd to 3rd only when its cold and when it stops it does a hard jerk when weather is hot and a slight bump when its cold.....but either way i cant drive off till i feel the bump lol.......but mine has done this for 15,000 miles and still going hasnt got worse or better but if i turn the a/c off in the hot summer it will slip and not go anywhere untill i turn the a/c on i assume its overheating and when i turn the a/c on the fans kick on and it cools the temp down......but i only need mine to last till August because im doing a manual tranny swap i got most the parts already that would be my suggestion get a 5 speed tranny swap going
The best you can do is do the oem honda tranny fluid change 3qts and do it 3 times after driving a few hundred miles and pray it will last,
My tranny leaks and does a rough shift with a slight pause from 1st to 2nd gear and slips 100 rpms 2nd to 3rd only when its cold and when it stops it does a hard jerk when weather is hot and a slight bump when its cold.....but either way i cant drive off till i feel the bump lol.......but mine has done this for 15,000 miles and still going hasnt got worse or better but if i turn the a/c off in the hot summer it will slip and not go anywhere untill i turn the a/c on i assume its overheating and when i turn the a/c on the fans kick on and it cools the temp down......but i only need mine to last till August because im doing a manual tranny swap i got most the parts already that would be my suggestion get a 5 speed tranny swap going
When in neutral at 4k rpms it does the same ****..
After endless tinkering around I determined that I'm just going to have to get it in to a shop..
in neutral as well. so that leads me to believe that the tranny is fine. It's pulling up code 1457 which is emissions related so I'm just going to get it into a shop and hope for the best
thanks for the reply
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haaa youre a funny guy or mom we dont come to this site to give up and spend 100dreds of dollars at a shop lets start with the simple stuff first we work from easy to hardest or like i like to say from cheapest to most expensive so first we look at the free stuff wich is checking all the connections to ensure that everything is plugged in and everything is right after that look up the codes online wich will tell you leak detected in evap canister so there is your astonishing answer leak in evaporator. then u look at the evaporator and make sure everything is plugged in and check the wires and hoses look for a leak. then look to replace the evap if u can not clean it seal the crack wich super glue will be awsome or if u replace the hose that had a hole in it and nothing happened........ after u fix watever it was u take the battery cables off for as long as u feel comfortable and put it back on most likely i just wait like 5 minutes, code should not read anymore. then u look for it to pop back up after that then i would replace the evap acanister and it infront of u in plain sight ontop of the engine,,,, but if u want to take it to a shop and have them charge u 100 dollars to look up the code and play around to make time go by by all means. they will tell u exact;y what i told you..... i hope i was helpfull and yes i did sarcasm a bit on this because it is quite simple
haaa youre a funny guy or mom we dont come to this site to give up and spend 100dreds of dollars at a shop lets start with the simple stuff first we work from easy to hardest or like i like to say from cheapest to most expensive so first we look at the free stuff wich is checking all the connections to ensure that everything is plugged in and everything is right after that look up the codes online wich will tell you leak detected in evap canister so there is your astonishing answer leak in evaporator. then u look at the evaporator and make sure everything is plugged in and check the wires and hoses look for a leak. then look to replace the evap if u can not clean it seal the crack wich super glue will be awsome or if u replace the hose that had a hole in it and nothing happened........ after u fix watever it was u take the battery cables off for as long as u feel comfortable and put it back on most likely i just wait like 5 minutes, code should not read anymore. then u look for it to pop back up after that then i would replace the evap acanister and it infront of u in plain sight ontop of the engine,,,, but if u want to take it to a shop and have them charge u 100 dollars to look up the code and play around to make time go by by all means. they will tell u exact;y what i told you..... i hope i was helpfull and yes i did sarcasm a bit on this because it is quite simple

I'm expecting a bill somewhere from 250-500

they can't figure out the problem either, first they thought it was a sensor
towards the back of the engine, now they just have no clue.. but thank you very much for the response
Yea i hate taking my car to a mechanic SHOP they claim they know what it is,then it turns out it wasnt and BAM there goes a couple hundred bucks you could have spent on strippers and beer LOL just joke......Just an example in my un-expirienced days,I had a shop tell me my starter was bad,i said are you sure they said guaranteed so after a heafty tow bill ,i bought a starter-125 bucks, labor-100 bucks,the look on my face when they told me that wasnt it after all priceless while they giggled....turns out it was a ignition switch only 40 bucks after that i said F a shop i do it all my self at least if im wrong i save on mad labor charges lol....so know i have had busted knuckles and scars from doing my own work on cars for 3 or 4 years know
Yea i hate taking my car to a mechanic SHOP they claim they know what it is,then it turns out it wasnt and BAM there goes a couple hundred bucks you could have spent on strippers and beer LOL just joke......Just an example in my un-expirienced days,I had a shop tell me my starter was bad,i said are you sure they said guaranteed so after a heafty tow bill ,i bought a starter-125 bucks, labor-100 bucks,the look on my face when they told me that wasnt it after all priceless while they giggled....turns out it was a ignition switch only 40 bucks after that i said F a shop i do it all my self at least if im wrong i save on mad labor charges lol....so know i have had busted knuckles and scars from doing my own work on cars for 3 or 4 years know
back yet... but Ill repost when my baby is fixed
thanks again for the help guys


So now that my baby has returned from the shop (
)
and 600 dollars later
...
I learned that it was the "Vtec Sensor" that had gone bad on my car..
To anyone that has this issue, my advice is as follows.. Look in to vtec sensors
and see if the repair is something you can do yourself.. and save yourself the
600 dollars that I could have, for me.. thank you honda-tech members for
all of your help!
)and 600 dollars later
...I learned that it was the "Vtec Sensor" that had gone bad on my car..
To anyone that has this issue, my advice is as follows.. Look in to vtec sensors
and see if the repair is something you can do yourself.. and save yourself the
600 dollars that I could have, for me.. thank you honda-tech members for
all of your help!

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