98 Accord obd1 conversion p06 computer (chipped) with launch control. Here is my issue car runs ok but needed gas (pushing pedal) to start. Sprayed throttle body cleaner in and cleaned as much as I could off throttle plate etc. Cold starting has improved but still have a high idle problem (1300-1500) now at 1550 ish rpm it sounds like launch control but comes out of it with more fuel. I have unplugged the iac and it won't sputter until 2000rpm but won't rev any higher. I have since blocked off and bypassed all coolant going to the manifold, but still have the problem of missing at 1500 and my idle got slightly lower.

 

if it is missing check anything and everything ignition related. plugs, wires, dist, cap rotor. etc etc

 

Checked all plugs,wires and distributor. All were in great shape. I have the throttle body off as I type this. It was very dirty i have taken all sensors off and I am confused how the IAC works on this. Is there anymore sensors i should take off and clean.

 

do you have the obd1 intake manifold plenum on or are you still using the f20b obd2 plenum? It sounds like to me that you still have the f20b plenum with the 3wire iacv. The obd1 ecu uses the 2 wire iacv. It wll act this way if you still have the obd2 iacv.

Obd2 is a rotary style and the obd1 isnt. Pick up a plenum off of the h23 or h22.

I have a f20b in my 99 with obd2>obd1 conversion on a chipped p28. I am using a h23 plenum. Everything works great for me.

Also, how did you bypass the ckp and tdc sensors? Just curious

 

If it is the IACV you could pick up a blacktrax IAC adapter and run a stock 2 wire IACV.

Blactrax IAC Adapter Flange - $35.00

Just out of curiosity, Have you had this tuned or is it still running a base map? It could need some fine tuning in the idle and fuel injector offset areas.

 

Well the IACV was deleted when the computer was chipped, and there is a block off plate which was leaking but i made a new one and no difference. It only "bounces" at 1500 rpm and comes out of it. The car was not built by me. And I know it ran fine before I had it. I sprayed brake cleaner on everything I could and nothing.Now the pvc valve I pinched the hose off and idle dropped a bit but still cut out at 1500.

 

Unplug the iacv and set the base idle first. Could be out of spec.

 

Well I made a new block off plate for my iacv. Car fires right up and idles great....than it warms up and goes to 1500rpm and bounces. I may try and get a smoke test done to it to find any vacuum leaks. And I have the IACV disabled with a plate plus it is chipped to run without it. So i don't think I can set a base idle.

 

Im going to try a TPS sensor. Anyone know if a normal Honda (h22) etc has the same tps as my f20b.

 

Why not test the voltage of the TPS before you go swapping it? To answer your question, Yes! Most 3 wire H/F/B/D series TPS sensors are possible replacements.

If your IACV is disabled then to adjsut the idle you simply adjust the set screw. However this won't work if you are having an irregular idle. It has to be steady and up to operating temps before you should do any adjustments.

Is the FIT valve still installed on this engine?

If it is it sounds like it might be sticking open and your ECU's ECT fuel trims are off because of this.

 

You will know if the TPS is swappable because it will turn the same way. Just compare the two. They have PGMFI and MPFI types.

Unless you're running some kind of boost or modified engine I don't really see the point of running a non stock P13 ecu.

 

The FITV is combined with the iacv on the f20b. At least thats what i think, and there is a block off plate between the iacv and the intake manifold.

 

Could it be possible that my ignition timing is off?

 

Im getting codes, 2,36,41

But could these cause my 1500rpm miss/sputter under slight throttle.

 

2 & 36 aren't listed as Honda diagnostic trouble codes. You should verify those and if they are indeed coming up. I would suggest that you swap out your chipped P06 for another one.

41 is the only OBD DTC covered. It is for your primary O2 sensors heater circuit.

 

The car is converted to OBd1 so would i go for OBd1 codes? Thanks for all your replies!

 

I tested my TPS and it came back at .66 idle and 4.44 WOT.

Also my car went into limp mode today for some reason, first time that ever happened.

 

Yes you are looking for OBD1 codes.....

If you went into limp mode, what is your ECU telling you now?

 

I have yet to pull the codes, but also the car is horrible on gas to. 70km to 20$ :-|

 

I put another TPS on and i cant get it to give me a reading over .4 and the car won't rev past 2000 now. I think its time for a match.

 

Well it was a dud TPS that I bought. So I ordered a new one. But my TPS could not be calibrated properly. It was reading .66 at idle and 4.44 at wot. So I set it to .5 idle and could not get it to 4.5, closest I could get it was 4.33. Now if I set it to 4.5 my idle voltage would be .7 to .8. I pulled the codes after the car went into limp mode (before I touched the TPS) and it was the TPS.

 

While waiting for my TPS I figure ill tackle some other issues. But does anyone know how to test a map sensor? I tried searching and came up with nothing. Also my tail lights and dash lights won't work, checked the fuse and nothing (blew the fuse once before). Is there anything else I should look for (multiswitch,relay etc)

 

Need help! I have a 97 acura cl with 2.2 honda engine f22b1 vtec stick shift. I purchased another engine from a japanese imports with no crankshaft sensor n needed to replace oil pump and all dat good stuff but ran out of money, N i read that you can by pass it using the splice method c1 and c4 and c11 with c14 but the problem is that my ecu adapter doesn't have a wire on c1 or c11 . I believe its n obd2a model. Is it still possible? how?

 

high jack much?

 

what do you mean by high jack much? I just need help with turning my car on