Going to start my CRX build tonight!
Hey all, I just made an account here but I have been a visitor for quite some time now, so now I am happy to say that I am a member.
Okay now, today I have obtained a 1991 CRX DX shell as my new car. I really really wanted the Si, but any model CRX is pretty hard to find in SoCal. It was only $700, I couldn't pass it up! I do not currently have a car, but this car is going to serve as my DD as soon as I am done.
Right now the car is mostly gutted on the inside, which is good for me, because I am going to paint it anyways. Black by the way. (less visible which means less likely to see and less likely to steal.) And plus, black is sexy.
Here are my plans for the car: In some kind of order...
-Gut the car the rest of the way
-Sand it all down
-The body it straight as HELL, but just make sure there are no small dents, then bondo them if there is.
-I also want to clen EVERYTHING! Like all the rotors, A arms, brake lines etc. And then that way if something it busted I can replace it if needed.
-Primer the car myself
-Mask everything off
-Paint it. Either myself, or MAACO (they only do a crappy job because they don't do any prep work. You do all the prep it is still a professional paint job)
-Reassemble the interior.
-Install a motor. More on this in a bit.
-Rims/Tires (??)
-Roof rack ( I like the way they look)
Then eventually JDM door panels with power windows and locks. Good luck to me finding some though!
For the engine what I will probably do it put a D16Y8 for now. They are cheap, reliable, and have a decent amount of power. Let me know what you would do though. Something easy to swap, a D series, low cost! And something that I could BAR.
Now, once I save up the money, I want to throw a B18C1 in there! Not an LS swap but a legit GS-R swap. I originally wanted a H22 and was willing to do the work, but you can't have A/C with a H22 and A/C is a MUST in Cali. So that is my plan as far as an engine.
I am not allowed to post pics due to me being a new member, but here they are in photobucket. Just click the link. Not sure if HTML is allowed so I didn't even try. Someone let me know if it is.
Pics: http://s1168.photobucket.com/albums/r493/crxguy1991/
Let me know what you think!
Do you think the price was good? I do especially with all those rare, hard to find parts!
And any B series parts that you see in the pics are not going to be mine. But the mounts are innovative in case you were wondering.
Also keep posted, I am going to be posting my progress to keep track and I always find builds interesting because every one is different. I hope you do too.
Okay now, today I have obtained a 1991 CRX DX shell as my new car. I really really wanted the Si, but any model CRX is pretty hard to find in SoCal. It was only $700, I couldn't pass it up! I do not currently have a car, but this car is going to serve as my DD as soon as I am done.
Right now the car is mostly gutted on the inside, which is good for me, because I am going to paint it anyways. Black by the way. (less visible which means less likely to see and less likely to steal.) And plus, black is sexy.
Here are my plans for the car: In some kind of order...
-Gut the car the rest of the way
-Sand it all down
-The body it straight as HELL, but just make sure there are no small dents, then bondo them if there is.
-I also want to clen EVERYTHING! Like all the rotors, A arms, brake lines etc. And then that way if something it busted I can replace it if needed.
-Primer the car myself
-Mask everything off
-Paint it. Either myself, or MAACO (they only do a crappy job because they don't do any prep work. You do all the prep it is still a professional paint job)
-Reassemble the interior.
-Install a motor. More on this in a bit.
-Rims/Tires (??)
-Roof rack ( I like the way they look)
Then eventually JDM door panels with power windows and locks. Good luck to me finding some though!

For the engine what I will probably do it put a D16Y8 for now. They are cheap, reliable, and have a decent amount of power. Let me know what you would do though. Something easy to swap, a D series, low cost! And something that I could BAR.
Now, once I save up the money, I want to throw a B18C1 in there! Not an LS swap but a legit GS-R swap. I originally wanted a H22 and was willing to do the work, but you can't have A/C with a H22 and A/C is a MUST in Cali. So that is my plan as far as an engine.
I am not allowed to post pics due to me being a new member, but here they are in photobucket. Just click the link. Not sure if HTML is allowed so I didn't even try. Someone let me know if it is.
Pics: http://s1168.photobucket.com/albums/r493/crxguy1991/
Let me know what you think!
Do you think the price was good? I do especially with all those rare, hard to find parts!
And any B series parts that you see in the pics are not going to be mine. But the mounts are innovative in case you were wondering.
Also keep posted, I am going to be posting my progress to keep track and I always find builds interesting because every one is different. I hope you do too.
Ya .......... good alarm, kill switch or two, clutch lock, steering wheel lock, Lojack, ..... and, oh ya, keep it in the garage!!! I'd push for at least a B16 to start off with, it'll last until you're ready for the next project. But then again, the BAR thing sounds good.
The kill-switch (maybe 2) and alarm is a good idea. I also plan on a detachable steering wheel.
Lets not get ahead of ourselves though haha.
I need to source an engine. Something D series, and something easy to swap. I was thinking a D16z6. Anyone know about what one of them costs? With the trans. I am saying complete. IM, head, block, dizzy everything.
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So a small update:
I got some new tools today (you gotta love Harbor Freight) and could finally start sanding.
So I have have a question. What is the best way to sand down the car? Right now I am using a grinder with a sand wheel attachment. Don't know if this is bad, but I am also going through pads like crazy! Here is what it looks like so far.
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_0536.jpg
Someone let me know if I need to use a palm sander haha.
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_0542.jpg
I also finally got the carpet out due to me purchasing some wrenches. $15 22 piece metric and sae set! Damn.
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_0543.jpg
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_0540.jpg
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_0539.jpg
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_0538.jpg
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_0537.jpg
I was also wondering if anyone knows a good way to get those stupid plastic screws out! For example the ones right under the hood latch attaching the bumper. Mine are stripped. Stupid I know.
Also, Anyone know how to get the windshield lining off without cracking/breaking the windshield?
One last thing, I found another CRX shell complete minus door panels, seats, headlights, engine and trans. Other than that he says it's complete. He wants $200 rolling. Whats everyone think on that? Worth it? I really would rip it apart, put all the parts in my garage and sell the shell for scrap. I don't really have anywhere to put it.
Pics:
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/.../Photo1304.jpg
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/.../Photo1305.jpg
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/.../Photo1306.jpg
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/.../Photo1307.jpg
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/.../Photo1308.jpg
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/.../Photo1309.jpg
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/.../Photo1310.jpg
Until next time...
-Rylan
I got some new tools today (you gotta love Harbor Freight) and could finally start sanding.
So I have have a question. What is the best way to sand down the car? Right now I am using a grinder with a sand wheel attachment. Don't know if this is bad, but I am also going through pads like crazy! Here is what it looks like so far.
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_0536.jpg
Someone let me know if I need to use a palm sander haha.
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_0542.jpg
I also finally got the carpet out due to me purchasing some wrenches. $15 22 piece metric and sae set! Damn.
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_0543.jpg
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_0540.jpg
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_0539.jpg
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_0538.jpg
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_0537.jpg
I was also wondering if anyone knows a good way to get those stupid plastic screws out! For example the ones right under the hood latch attaching the bumper. Mine are stripped. Stupid I know.
Also, Anyone know how to get the windshield lining off without cracking/breaking the windshield?
One last thing, I found another CRX shell complete minus door panels, seats, headlights, engine and trans. Other than that he says it's complete. He wants $200 rolling. Whats everyone think on that? Worth it? I really would rip it apart, put all the parts in my garage and sell the shell for scrap. I don't really have anywhere to put it.
Pics:
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/.../Photo1304.jpg
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/.../Photo1305.jpg
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/.../Photo1306.jpg
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/.../Photo1307.jpg
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/.../Photo1308.jpg
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/.../Photo1309.jpg
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/.../Photo1310.jpg
Until next time...
-Rylan
Don't sand the whole car..juss the spots where u see dents sand them w/ 80 grit paper
That's enough so that bonds will grab good
If u juss wanna sand car down for primer juss sand down with 320 if spraying with spray gun or sand down with 1000/1200 if using spray can primer
But don't go down to metal if not adding primer its hard for paint to grab bare metal
And a palm sander is probably best cus it can be applied flush to the metal not at an angle
Hope it helps
That's enough so that bonds will grab good
If u juss wanna sand car down for primer juss sand down with 320 if spraying with spray gun or sand down with 1000/1200 if using spray can primer
But don't go down to metal if not adding primer its hard for paint to grab bare metal
And a palm sander is probably best cus it can be applied flush to the metal not at an angle
Hope it helps
Thanks! Well ,now I have to get the entire top pf the car to bare metal (or almost) because I don't want it looking too tacky haha. The rest of the car though, I'll probably do 1000 maybe lower. Sounds easier lol.
Don't sand the whole car..juss the spots where u see dents sand them w/ 80 grit paper
That's enough so that bonds will grab good
If u juss wanna sand car down for primer juss sand down with 320 if spraying with spray gun or sand down with 1000/1200 if using spray can primer
But don't go down to metal if not adding primer its hard for paint to grab bare metal
And a palm sander is probably best cus it can be applied flush to the metal not at an angle
Hope it helps
That's enough so that bonds will grab good
If u juss wanna sand car down for primer juss sand down with 320 if spraying with spray gun or sand down with 1000/1200 if using spray can primer
But don't go down to metal if not adding primer its hard for paint to grab bare metal
And a palm sander is probably best cus it can be applied flush to the metal not at an angle
Hope it helps
How r u gonna primer it..w/ spray gun or spray can primer??
most likely spray can. I have a lot of work to do beforehand though. But unless I know for sure that I am doing this myself, and I get an air sprayer and compressor, then I will do spray primer (not can).
Read the $50 paint Job thread yet?
https://honda-tech.com/forums/paint-body-84/%22%2450-paint-job%22-thread-1555133/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/paint-body-84/%22%2450-paint-job%22-thread-1555133/
If you have access to Harbor Freight Tools, you can pick up a compressor and a paint gun for less than $100. Once you have that, you can get a couple quarts of decent high-build primer for another $50, and you can do your prep work the right way. Especially if you have sanded to bare metal. You MUST have an etching primer to get any adhesion to bare steel.
Rattle cans have hardly any build to them, so any scratches you have in your surface are going to continue all the way through to your finished product. Real primer will etch to the surface, and will build up like a thin layer of filler, allowing you to finish block any little imperfections out. It will also stick! Nothing sucks more than to have a nice new paint job flake away at the car wash a couple months after you spray it.
Please, for the love of anything, do not rattle-can your car!
If you have access to Harbor Freight Tools, you can pick up a compressor and a paint gun for less than $100. Once you have that, you can get a couple quarts of decent high-build primer for another $50, and you can do your prep work the right way. Especially if you have sanded to bare metal. You MUST have an etching primer to get any adhesion to bare steel.
Rattle cans have hardly any build to them, so any scratches you have in your surface are going to continue all the way through to your finished product. Real primer will etch to the surface, and will build up like a thin layer of filler, allowing you to finish block any little imperfections out. It will also stick! Nothing sucks more than to have a nice new paint job flake away at the car wash a couple months after you spray it.
If you have access to Harbor Freight Tools, you can pick up a compressor and a paint gun for less than $100. Once you have that, you can get a couple quarts of decent high-build primer for another $50, and you can do your prep work the right way. Especially if you have sanded to bare metal. You MUST have an etching primer to get any adhesion to bare steel.
Rattle cans have hardly any build to them, so any scratches you have in your surface are going to continue all the way through to your finished product. Real primer will etch to the surface, and will build up like a thin layer of filler, allowing you to finish block any little imperfections out. It will also stick! Nothing sucks more than to have a nice new paint job flake away at the car wash a couple months after you spray it.
Many people use cans juss to get done
But do it right the 1st time and u will be happy u did
Also if u plan on painting ur self might as well get the spray gun and compressor b4 primer
But it's really ur choice doing it by can will juss be more work for u because u will have to make sure u get to the finest scratches that won't show in ur paint
Please, for the love of anything, do not rattle-can your car!
If you have access to Harbor Freight Tools, you can pick up a compressor and a paint gun for less than $100. Once you have that, you can get a couple quarts of decent high-build primer for another $50, and you can do your prep work the right way. Especially if you have sanded to bare metal. You MUST have an etching primer to get any adhesion to bare steel.
Rattle cans have hardly any build to them, so any scratches you have in your surface are going to continue all the way through to your finished product. Real primer will etch to the surface, and will build up like a thin layer of filler, allowing you to finish block any little imperfections out. It will also stick! Nothing sucks more than to have a nice new paint job flake away at the car wash a couple months after you spray it.
If you have access to Harbor Freight Tools, you can pick up a compressor and a paint gun for less than $100. Once you have that, you can get a couple quarts of decent high-build primer for another $50, and you can do your prep work the right way. Especially if you have sanded to bare metal. You MUST have an etching primer to get any adhesion to bare steel.
Rattle cans have hardly any build to them, so any scratches you have in your surface are going to continue all the way through to your finished product. Real primer will etch to the surface, and will build up like a thin layer of filler, allowing you to finish block any little imperfections out. It will also stick! Nothing sucks more than to have a nice new paint job flake away at the car wash a couple months after you spray it.
U just gotta find ur rhythm n get used to wat ever gun u do end up getting
Please, for the love of anything, do not rattle-can your car!
If you have access to Harbor Freight Tools, you can pick up a compressor and a paint gun for less than $100. Once you have that, you can get a couple quarts of decent high-build primer for another $50, and you can do your prep work the right way. Especially if you have sanded to bare metal. You MUST have an etching primer to get any adhesion to bare steel.
Rattle cans have hardly any build to them, so any scratches you have in your surface are going to continue all the way through to your finished product. Real primer will etch to the surface, and will build up like a thin layer of filler, allowing you to finish block any little imperfections out. It will also stick! Nothing sucks more than to have a nice new paint job flake away at the car wash a couple months after you spray it.
If you have access to Harbor Freight Tools, you can pick up a compressor and a paint gun for less than $100. Once you have that, you can get a couple quarts of decent high-build primer for another $50, and you can do your prep work the right way. Especially if you have sanded to bare metal. You MUST have an etching primer to get any adhesion to bare steel.
Rattle cans have hardly any build to them, so any scratches you have in your surface are going to continue all the way through to your finished product. Real primer will etch to the surface, and will build up like a thin layer of filler, allowing you to finish block any little imperfections out. It will also stick! Nothing sucks more than to have a nice new paint job flake away at the car wash a couple months after you spray it.
Anyone know how much paint and primer I'll need for this tiny little car? Haha
I am not spraying the inside, just the outside and door jams. I am lizard skinning the inside, so I will need to primer the inside however.
Thanks for all the help everyone!
What's everyone think of that CRX for $200 that I was asking about? Do you guys think I can get the parts that I want and need and then just sell the rest and make my $$ back??

I honestly didn't even know that there was legit spray non can primer until today haha.
Haha yeah now that you put it like that, I think I'll spray it. I was looking today at Harbor Freight and is was like $30 for a sprayer. I can just borrow a compressor.
Anyone know how much paint and primer I'll need for this tiny little car? Haha
I am not spraying the inside, just the outside and door jams. I am lizard skinning the inside, so I will need to primer the inside however.
Thanks for all the help everyone!
Anyone know how much paint and primer I'll need for this tiny little car? Haha
I am not spraying the inside, just the outside and door jams. I am lizard skinning the inside, so I will need to primer the inside however.
Thanks for all the help everyone!
It's more then enough for the Rex
But it's always good to have extra juss in case u wanna do touch ups later on
As for the crx for $200
It's worth it if u have a lot missing from ur project
I'm sure u will get ur money back wen u scrap it
Or better yet why don't u practice painting it juss so u have the feel for painting a car
U know prep work b4 u paint ur Rex
Juss a thought lol
It's worth it if u have a lot missing from ur project
I'm sure u will get ur money back wen u scrap it
Or better yet why don't u practice painting it juss so u have the feel for painting a car
U know prep work b4 u paint ur Rex
Juss a thought lol


