Okay, So I'm looking to do a H2B/F2B Swap. But the JDM F20B, I was originally gonna do is out of stock on Hmotorsonline. So my next option is my original choice, JDM H23 Vtec. But I can't find any info to run it on OBD-2, so does anybody know how to run it on OBD-2 in a manual car? I need to run OBD-2 for emissions.

H23 Vtec's only came in Auto's

 

where are you located that your tripping off emissions ?
and if your going h2b how do you expect to pass smog lol

 

Portland,Oregon. during emissions they plug a scan tool into the diagnostic connector and read all the sensors and if any of the sensors have a error. you will fail emissions, also they do a sniff test. easy fix as long as you're running a cat.

Also, what does doing a H2B have to do with smog?

 

H2b has nothing to do with smog. What type of car is this going into. To run it as obd2 utilizing all factory sensors you will need to swap out oil pump for a usdm h22 obd2 oil pump and distributor, also the h23 uses a 3 wire iacv, which you need to swap out for the usdm one and use one of rosko racing's adapter plate

 

Also I recomend atleast some sort of a vafc tune or something similar to adjust, I wouldn't go just running a obd2 p13 on it, yes it will get it running but It won't be ideal, and I doubt it would pass emissions like that, but who knows... Here if you pay once and it fails you can keep coming back for the retest until it passes

 

1997 Honda Civic HX. Rosko racing adapter plate? so get a USDM H23 non vtec IACV?
Yeah, same here. just pay once and retest until it passes. How long can I run the P13 for, until I get a VAFC?

 

No the Blue top uses the 3 wire you need the h22 2 wire iacv. Roskoracing.com or pm him @ rosko on here.

Personally I wouldnt even engage vtec if it was me on the p13 with no fuel adjustments made. I'm sure many people have done it but that's just me. It is a different engine than what the ecu was designed to run so I would do some sort of tuning ASAP. Maybe see if you can pass emissions on it, then get an obd1 jumper harness and get a real tune.

 

Yeah that's what I plan on doing, I just need to pass emissions. Then I can get it tuned on OBD-1.

 

Look here is what you need to pass emissions for the h23a vtec because i live h22, h23, f20b, and f22/23's and you can leave it obd2. Get the top part of an h22 intake manifold and slap it on to the h23a vtec plenum. If you have the obd2 h23a vtec ecu then leave the h23 plenum on and run the iacv wires to the ecu but if you have an h22a4 obd2 ecu then get the h22 top plenum. Next you can use the h23a vtec dizzy but if you have the h22a4 dizzy then use that so you don't have to switch out pins on the ecu because h23a is obd2b and not obd2a they have a couple of different pins switched. If you use the h23 harness you should just plug everything and get an h22a4 obd2 ecu and do the swap with the harness it will be easier but you have to switch some pins around. Easy as that instead of spending 200 dollars on that rosko bull just get the top plenum of the h22a4.

Oh and the injectors are the same as h22a4 along with the 290cc injectors or 310 which no one can verify. My f20b injectors are 345cc and they feel perfect and they are the stock ones that come on it. No resistor box needed also.

 

No^

And the adapter is very far from 200 and both f20b and h23 blue top and type s and euro r all have 310cc injectors

 

Not really my injectors are not 310 cc jdm f20b the injectors are 345cc on mine and i am not using aftermarket ones or h22 ones because i use no resistor box. I have a chipped p28 with a jdm h22a map it runs perfect no sputters or nothing like that and i have a h22 top plenum which also works perfect with the 2 wire iacv. I don't know what cc they are but mine doesn't run lean at 345cc from 310cc and trust me i've played a lot with the f20b My current setup right now has an f20b head on a f22a1 bottom end with f20b pistons and i still use the 345cc injectors still runs perfect.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/f20b-injectors-size-2687173/

 

This thread answered a lot of my questions about the engine. I can't wait to put it in my car

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-prelude-4/jdm-h23a-vtec-blue-top-mystery-motor-true-facts-questions-2341343/

If you browse the prelude forums, a lot of those guys wanted to run theirs OBD2 and explain how.

 

Yeah, I decided to go with the F20B for reliability and the ease of utilizing the stock ecu.

 

While the F20b is a great engine, plenty of people have put H23s/H22as to the test both N/A and forced induction and experience has proven that the "unreliability" of FRM sleeves or what have you, is a myth.

There really isn't a tragically unreliable Honda engine. It's Honda.

People being dumb in the context of whichever engine they use doesn't make one engine bad. All it takes is one person to say "MY B20 SLEEVES CRACKED IT'S GOT THIN SLEEVES"

Even though that's wholly false, people still believe it because they saw it on the internet.

Many of the users in the hybrid and all motor forums can attest to the reliability of b20vtec, h2b, etc builds. The important variable is the competence of the owners of the car/engine.

 

I meant reliability as far as higher revs, with the stock valvetrain. The F20B was made for road racing and that's what I'm looking to do, instead of going in a straight line.There's many different reasons why I chose the F20B instead of the H23Vtec.

 

How do you know the F20b was made for road racing?

You know the H23A has the SAME valve train as the f20b? Even has the dual springs.

I'm using my car for autocross and HPDE next year probably, I chose H23A because it has all of the things done to it most people eventually do to their F20b.

Plus, the H22-PDE head on the H23A is factory port/polished just like the H22 type-S and the ITR b18C.

All honda engines will be reliable so long as you don't rev them past the rev limiter or when they quit making power. Revs and power are not the same thing.

Having a redline at 7500RPM just means it makes all of its power sooner, not that it makes less.

 

Even though the F20B was made to compete in a 2.0 liter limited class, most of its power is up top and during autocrossing and road racing, your gonna be in the higher rev's where all your power is at. So it makes more sense.

Also I chose it, because I can utilize the stock ECU. Whereas I couldn't do that with the H23Vtec, even if you run it on a P13. It still has different parameters. If I didn't have emissions, I would have definitely gone with the H23Vtec. But me and you are in different situations.

 

I understand that.

I'm just trying to understand your notion that the h23 somehow lacks power where I need it.

 

Im not saying it lacks power where you need it, I'm just saying, if youre gonna be staying in the higher rpms. The F20B is more suited for it. Stock for stock.

 

And you're basing that on?

 

Type S valvetrain

 

Well, the H23A shares the valves and retainers with the F20b, just not the dual springs.

 

Only the retainers are the same.

 

Also this "Honda called upon Saffil to create a thin but strong cylinder liner called FRM (fiber reinforced metal) which basically consisted of a carbon fiber matrix, aluminum alloy, and aluminum oxide to make a very strong cylinder sleeve. The sleeve is so strong, in fact, that it wears out the piston rings causing low compression numbers, severe smoking, and high oil usage. It is possible in many situations to merely replace the worn rings in order to revive the motor's former output. Many machine shops will not attempt to re-hone or re-bore the FRM sleeves, as this type of sleeve will de-laminate during machining operations."