Okay well I have a 91 si hatch and I currently have a 91 LS in it. The car came with the swap in it and I was wondering if the knuckles where switched out of it to teggy knuckles cause I read everywhere saying that to do a B swap you HAVE TO switch your knuckles out. I'm asking this cause I'm getting ready to do a h22 swap and I'm just wondering if I have to switch my knuckles again??? Or if my car has the stock Si knuckles and the ls axles just magically fit in there???

I've read on ESP in the how to h22, and its sorta confusing. He said if you have an Si you really don't need to do the whole knuckles to teggy ones. But later on in the parts list it days you have to switch them. So which one is it???

Final question: should I just save the hassle and just go h2b? Do I need CUSTOM axles to fit my EF chassis?

Thanks all! Please help a Ef'er out!

 

The previous owner could've swapped in Integra knuckles but Integra and EF axles (except HF model) have the same count of axle teeth. As far as your H22 swap, good luck bruh, that's gonna be a lot of work and some custom fabing, and involving you denting up a spot in your shock tower for the altenator to fit in without rubbing. You can go H2B but you have to send your bell housing out for them to drill new bolt holes in the B series tranny to match the H series motor. Not sure about the shifting linkages or the axles.....have no clue. It's gonna be a tighter than a ticks *** in that engine bay, personal opinion....with the amount of money and time you would be spending to do the whole swap, you could build a pretty nasty B18 that would be faster than a stock H23, H22v-tec or H23v-tec. Especially since you have the whole B18 swap in the car now. Not trying to discourage you though....

 

All is good. Also what has me wondering is that do 91 civic rotors fit teggy knuckles? Cause I replaced them when I gotvthe car, and bought 91 civic Si rotors and they fit. The only problem I had was the brakes. The pads where a pita to get in(maybe teggy calipers???) And check out Esp's how to h22 in EF. No excessive fabbing, almost no denting in anything, and everything fits in the bay nicely.(with their $800 kit).

 

Is the explicitspeed kit for h2b ?

Cuz the QSD plate to go h2b is 800 alone. Everything else is b-series, because you are using a bseries tranny.. axles, shiftlinkage, mounts. I say go H2b, be prepared to pay about 2500-3000 ( long block included in the price ) But will be well worth it in the long run

 

It was getting late last night and kept forgeting you were going B series tranny.....Stunna is right. I had a 92 'lude Si with a H23. best car I've owned in the almost ten years of driving. They make H23 v-tec that I was always curious about......which H series are you going after?

 

No but I'm pretty sure I can ask them for the specs of engine placement and the b series mount(need hydro, I have cable). And I'm fully aware of the cost. The way I see it, I'd rather spend the 2.5k to have a motor that is already going to to push around the same hp as my ls-turbo. And running a turbo on a budget increases the risk of something going wrong. Plus my ls isn't up to par, oil rings are slowly getting messed up as I am burning oil during hard acceleration. I have valve tap/lash right now. And my tranny grinds in 2,3,5 gears ><. So it's time for a new setup Lolz.

So if I go h2b, I won't need custom axles. Can someone confirm this? I'm trying not to change my knuckles/front suspension as much. Plus a h22 h2b would be pretty kickass in mt car.

 

JDM H22A. Only one I want. My friend owns a performance shop he said he can bargain with a guy ans get it for $500-$700. H-motorsonline have it for $1000 plus s&h that's just the long block.

 

Well I got my questions answered by emailing ESP directly. And u thought I'd share the information he told me. I'm very impressed with how they handled my question and answered it thoroughly. Here goes

" Hello, thanks for the inquire. The H2B swap is a completely different swap then with H transmission. H2B wont clear stock hood, will have to grind back of the block for midshaft clearance and tilt of the motor is way forward. Also less driver side frame rail clearance for alternator belt and will need to poud or notch frame rail or run a 1/2" Over alternator Kit and remove the balance shafts. If you have LS swap already probably have integra axles already which is what the H swap with our kit uses so the spline count is the same and will work in the hub/knuckles. What I usually recommend H2B for drag car and H trans for street and strip difference in the 1/4 mile between a short geared GSR B trans and H22 is only 3-4 tenths anything can make that up. Using the LS trans would be defeating the H2B reason because LS has long gears. Longer then H22. Please email with any other questions or wanting to purchase. Thanks-John

www.ExplicitSpeedPerformance.net"

Hope this can help out fellow EF'ers out when deciding to go h2b. Sure changed my mind lol

And on average their mounts have a wait time of 5-7 weeks cause they are HAND MADE TO ORDER!!!!! I'm definitely ordering the complete package from them. I'm doing this swap right. Not cheaply and potentially putting the motor in harms way.

Thanks again for all who helped!

 

H2B is ideal at this point since it'll give you better preception of the weight distributing even though it is in the frontal of the vehicle nonetheless it'll produce that roomier feel when crawling into an area.

 

What are you talking about? H series has the alternator in the front of the engine, nowhere near the shock tower.

Once again what are you talking about? They make h2b adapter plates.

 

Just going off info I've read about a H swap.

 

I guess me and John from Explicit Speed Performance dont know what were talking about then huh?

 

He does, you dont. Frame rail is the part of the frame that runs along the bottom of both sides of the bay. Way different than the shock tower. Shock tower is back of bay too the alt on h22 is on the front of the engine so you would need to notch the front of the frame rail unlike a b swap where u clearance the rear of the frame rail

 

Touche' my friend......touche'

 

I MUST WARN YOU!!!!

I ordered the EF H22 Swap kit with traction bar on November 28th and have yet to receive it!!!!! Ive called, and emailed numerous times. If you are ok with spending almost $900 and waiting more than 3 months by all means go ahead. All I heard every time was these are CUSTOM MADE with a ESTIMATED TIME FRAME. I know fabbing takes time but after the first one things should speed up. He told me 5-7 weeks too lol.... Ummmm not 16!!!!!!! I would NEVER buy from them again. Just my opinion. Customer service is key and I felt they lacked it severly.

 

i've also heard horror stories from them

 

First it was, "John is with his daughter who its sick". That carried on for 2 weeks or so, then it was "We had snow for 5 days and are now 2 weeks behind". After that it became, "your a few sheets away from the production table, call me in a week". (CALL YOU? WTF) That lasted for 2 months! I finally talked to his DAD who apparently does the fabricating and as soon as he picked up the phone he stated that he would put a rush on it and have it out this monday (March 12th) with a confirmation email. IF this is true that puts my order at the approx. 3.75months from order date to delivery. 16 WEEKS is far from the 2 week behind mark. All I asked for was a timeline, and what I got was, "Call me back in a week".... HORRIBLE customer service. I believe you should NEVER have to keep calling a company to find out your order status!

Again this is my opinion, im in no way telling anyone not to buy from them but if this is a common problem I feel as though it should be brought up more than once. For the price of these kits, falling behind shouldnt be an option...