Got a 95 Civic Dx manual tranny. Can't put it into any gears, theres a huge grinding sound when I try to. Does it just need a clutch replacement?

 

How does the clutch pedal feel?

Is their fluid in the reservoir?

What were the symptoms before it stopped going into gear?

 

I believe the clutch was slipping when driving from 1st to 2nd and on to the other gears. After it sat for a couple of weeks clutch pedal became very soft thats when I wasn't able to get the tranny into gear.

 

I'll have to check the fluid reservoir in the morning.

 

Can you not go check it now? Would take 3 minutes.

 

The fluid reservoir you mean the tranny dip stick?

 

jesus...

 

Your clutch master cylinder, on the firewall, to the right of your brake master cylinder. It basically looks like a baby BMC.

If your transmission has a dipstick, we have other problems to talk about.

 

The little one.

 

if there is for some reason air in the line that could cause it also to not let gears engage, may just need to bleed and put new fluid in it!

 

You see the yellow square, yep thats me. Just went out to look at it. There's some fluid but it looks low and now the car won't even start. Clutch pedal is very soft, I barely have to put any pressure on it and it goes down. Now the ignition won't even turn over. Just hope its not cuz of the cold.

 

I mean I hope it is because of the cold and not the starter.

 

Start off by bleeding your clutch fluid system. Pick up a bottle of Honda brake fluid tomorrow from the dealership, and get your 8 or 10mm wrench ready. It'll take you and one other person all of 10 minutes, if you've never done it before.

 

^

yes! it sounds like air in lines. and you need some nice good clean fluid! hopefully thats all it is.

 

x2 it's a 8mm! But if your clutch line from the fire wall to trans has dried out like most Honda then It might be breathing in air in very small amounts , which creats a push and pull effect so there is not real leverage in the fuel it self!

Or you might just need a clutch replacement bearing and all, the mechanic dos this anyway but easy and quick to try and fix ur self and is if it helps the problem!

 

No, never bled the clutch system before. Should I try adding brake fluid first? Before I bled the system. Also could someone give me a quick how to? Or a link?

 

I recentely asked this question , what would happen if a starter went bad and locked up , while driving?

 

Nothing. The starter disengages from the flywheel cog after it's done its job.

 

Yea I mean I started the car like a week ago during the day and it started fine. But I went out there tonight and tried to start it and the ignition wouldn't even turn over. It is about 23 degrees out so I'm hoping its the cold weather and not something mechanical.

 

Yeah

1. Add fluid
2. Keep cover off
3. Pump up clutch pedal (hold)
4. 2nd person (open , with you still holding down pedal)
5. 2nd person ( close , with you still holding down pedal)
6. Let pedal go
7. Repat until happy with. Clutch resistance.
8. Sink or swim fixed or broken .

Let us know

 

theres tons of links you can find but its pretty simple.

by some brake fluid, open reservoir and poor it in, you or someone go and open the bleeder valve located on the front of the transmission on the clutch slave cylinder, put an air tight hose over, something tht will fit snug, i use heater hose and have the person pump the clutch a few times. whenever you are going to close the bleeder valve be sure the person pushes the clutch all the way down aand HOLDS it till you have tightened the valve shut, than they can release.

pretty much just repeat till you see clean fluid coming out of the hose and no air bubbles in the fluid.

also while you bleed it dont let the fluid get low in the reservoir, and always make sure clutch is pushed down and held there before closing valve, otherwise you could suck up some more air into your line.

hope that wasnt too confusing, ha, its pretty straight forward, like bleeding brakes, hope it helps!

 

This is true, ^^^^ I had same problem slave cylinder was just like a plunger instead of pump , needed to be replaced! Cluth was normal after, but first look at color of brake fluid (if black then most likely internal seal so replacement is a must)

Plus +++ if you don't use a hand vacuum pump to do the lines then after a week or so of driving it repeat the bleeding on. Clutch lines, the air will get pushed toward the bleeder nipple!

 

Not true. Old fluid will also look dark.

If your fluid is dark, the best thing to do is flush the system. Exact same procedure as doing a clutch bleed, but instead of doing it until bubbles stop coming out, keep doing it until clear fluid starts coming out. Takes a little longer, but it's worth it for the sake of proper maintenance. A simple bleed shouldn't take more than one bottle of Honda brake fluid. For a full flush, get two to three bottles to be on the safe side.

Seriously though, get the fluid from the dealership. It's only a couple bucks more than getting it from Autozone/Advanced, but it's worth it. OEM brake fluid has lasted me consistently longer than parts store crap, and will hold pressure longer than parts store fluid will.

Clutch bleeding is exactly the same as brake bleeding. The bleeder screw will be on your clutch slave cylinder, which is mounted on the front of your transmission. If you look down just behind your radiator, you'll see it. It'll probably have a small black cap on it - remove that first. Also, do yourself a favor and do it with a wrench, NOT a ratchet (unless you have through ratchets).

Not starting in cold weather is usually caused by a dead or dying battery. Did you try jumping or kick starting it?

 

Yea brake fluid is black. Thanks guys for all the help! Good to know that others are more then willing to pass on their knowledge.

 

No, I'll have to try jumping it in the morning when the g/f gets home.