Thinking about tackling this myself but would like to do research on it before i dive in. Links with pictures or diagrams would help. Please no links to other board where i have to sign up. I am a devoted h-t'er thanks in advance

 

Here you man

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto.html

 

PERFECT...thanks bro

 

No sweat happy to help out another H-ter

 

heres 2 links for u:

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto.html

http://www.bseries.net/html/garage/valveadjust.php

 

thanks GSRaCeROI...not too sure if i am confident enough to do this myself...looks pretty involved...if i don't how much should i expect to pay at a dealership to have this done?

 

well I can't speak for you on how much experience/how mechanically inclined you are.. but I can speak for myself.. the first time I planned to do it myself I was really scared because I'm taking off the valve cover and what not and I didn't know if I'd be able to hold the tool while sliding in the feeler guages and feeling for drag all at the same time... I studied the helms manual (www.helminc.com) along w/ all these other online (above) links and I was still kind of hesitant since I hadn't opened up my motor/valve cover before...

I went to the dealer and asked how much it'd be to ONLY get a valve adjustment, new valve cover gaskets, etc.. and NO other maintenances since I do all the maintenance procedures myself.. they wanted $95.... I then went to a local shop that works on japanese cars exclusively and they wanted $110.... I then decided that I've done many other things (oil changes, brake jobs, suspension/spring installs, stereo, 7.5K, 15K, 30K maintenances, clutch jobs, among other things) so I decided instead of paying sum1 $95-110 to get it adjusted only to have to pay again in 15K miles.. that I'd plunk down the $50 or so for the snap on tool and TRY it myself...

the first time I worked really slow because like I said I've never taken my valve cover off and everything before and it took me about an hour or so.. it looks hard because of all the steps.. but once you get into it and see how everything is its not that hard...

got my snap on 10mm jamb nut tool for about $50
angled feeler guages from sears for like $7 I think
and the 19mm socket, ratchet and extension I already had..
valve cover and spark plug gaskets (I decided to replace these at the same time)and a tube of honda bond were about $30 sumthing ..

since you gotta buy the tools it costs about the same the 1st time.. but after that.. you save in the long run and gain knowledge and are able to do it yourself

I think you should just study (and print out) both the links and study it as if your taking a university final..in the meantime buy the tools and gaskets... when your comfortable enough to do it.. you figure you bought all the tools and gaskets n such to do the job and you've been studying the online tutorials .. then when your confident just go do it..

thats what I usually do when Im about to do something I haven't done before.. I study it as if it was a final and print it out so I can take it to the garage for reference and since its just a paper print out I could care less if it gets all dirty cuz I can just toss it when I'm done.. it seems challenging because of all the pix and steps involved but once you get the hang of it its not as involved/challenging as it seemed at first... but I know how you feel.. the first time I was gonna do a valve adjustment I was really hesitant/scared/thought it was challenging..

 

Don't waste your money do it your self. You gotta learn sometime....

 

was the snap on tool worth it? does it make it easier than the wrench and screwdriver combo? if i did it for my first time you think it would take under 3 hours?

 

Correct me if I am wrong, but they show 2 different places of where to insert the feeler gauge.
Here it is being inserted between the jam nut and adjust screw


Here it is being inserted between the lobe


Which location is the proper one OR will both places work?

 

I have not done one yet myself. I was studying them and came across those 2 pic

 

Check out my took in my sig. Same as the one over at C-speed.

 

I used the lobe as a measuring point

 

Im with this guy
You use the lobe as a measuring point... you insert feeler gauge between the rocker arm and the cam lobe.
There should be a range of clearance you should have between it on both the intake and exhaust side.
You measure it from the lowest side of the lobe too, NOT the egg shape part of it.

I recommend getting a manual of some sort... It has valve lash adjustment which is what youre looking for.

Plus that tool is optional... a wrench and screwdriver works just as well.
And yes, you should be able to do this within 3 hrs. If your just adjusting the clearances to make sure their within specs, i dont see it taking any longer than 1 hour if you have valve cover taken off already and such

Just make sure you loosen the nut with wrench first only... ive seen so many times people just try to unscrew it with screwdriver and they wonder why it wont loosen up.

Goodluck.

 

Does this Click-adjust tool work on integras?

Check out this video. It looks like it will make the job a hundred times easier but is the tool long enough?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EK7_t...eature=related


More info on the tool:

http://www.lbcarco.com/clik/Clikadjust_1.html

http://www.lbcarco.com/clik/Clikadjust_2.html

 

I have to pimp my site here:

http://importnut.net/valveadjust.htm

It's not hard and definitely worth doing yourself. Learning how to "feel" the gap with the feeler gauges is tricky, but you'll get it.

-Alex

 

There is a series of videos on youtube that may help you out...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5c***19AkQ

Like they said ^^^^, a manual will help you out because it will tell you the lash adjustment (6mm, 4mm...) and the proper torque... (intake and exhaust valves will have different lash... Intake (closer to intake manifold), exhaust valves (closer to exhaust header). Dont pay anyone to do it...

If you want it perfect, do it yourself
Nobody loves your car more than you do...

GL

Ps: if the link doesnt work , go to youtube and search for "Car Maintenance: Valve Adjustment : Acura Integra Valve Adjustment".

 

That tool is only worth it on VTEC engines, the non vtec engines have everything out and available. Its really simple, just make sure that you "Feel" for clearance after everything has been tightened as well. Sometimes if you tighten the bolts, the screw moves slightly, and a slight movement is a HUGE difference in valve lash.

 

click on that site its a helpful site to adjust your valve right with pics and everything

 

eric the car guy has a video of himself doing a lash adjustment on a honda accord. very good videos, highly recommend him. he has good videos on integras too. heres the link to page 4, look for the accord valve lash video in the bottom row.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/videos/?tubepress_page=4

 

Trust me when I say this: GET THE LASH ADJUSTMENT TOOL!!!

First time I attempted this job, I tried it with a bent wrench and a screwdriver. I botched it so bad that I ended up with about .030" clearance on one exhaust valve (should be .007") and the engine sounded like a damn diesel.

Nowadays I rattle this job off in like 15-20 minutes. And it's a job that costs me nothing. Lucky for me, though, I got a set of 4 adjustment tools from Harbor Freight back in 2001-2002 (4 different sizes, only need the one size) for about $15. They don't carry it anymore so you'll have to get the more expensive Snap-On or Matco version.

And NEVER take measurements between the jamb nut and rocker arm. EVER! You'll have incorrect readings every time. Only measure between the cam lob and the rocker arm pad, with all valves closed on the cylinder you're measuring (cylinder must be near TDC on the compression stroke).

 

A set of these will work great. ---> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Astro...item2c5883bc87

 

Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but I bolded his quote above....


If you are measuring intake valves, you just need the intake valves to be closed right? You don't have to have the exhaust valves closed? The reason Im asking is because I do all my intake valves first, then exhaust, and I dont really pay attention to the TDC, I just wait until the lobe is facing AWAY from the rocker arm.

Thanks!

 

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...djustment.html

 

Whatever valve you're measuring has to be off the cam aka on the base circle The other valves don't matter.

You can tell when it's on the base circle because the lobes are pointed away from the rocker.

It just so happens that as you set each cylinder to TDC, both cams are on the base circle and the valves are all closed for that cylinder. Which is why the procedure tells you to set each cylinder at TDC when adjusting the valve lash.