Hi

I am in the work on getting the car ready for spring and I had to change a bent UCA. This made me think about stuff...

I am using SPC balljoints into OEM UCA, which let me get about -3.3 to -3.5 neg camber maxed...and that's my number according to the pyrometer.

Call me crazy, but I feel like the SPC balljoint into OEM UCA give me bump steer. Is this even possible, that by spacing the UCA with the balljoint I'd get more bumpsteer ?

2nd thought is...how feasible is it to get -3 to -3.2 with OEM UCA ? Sure it is physically possible...but how manageable is it to go that low on a track dedicated car ? My guess is that is it impossible....but i'm a scientist...and even if I had the same reasoning in the past, I am back at questioning this whole thing.

Could I achieve my ultimate goal of using OEM UCA without SPC balljoint and still get enough camber ? I think not. Sure i'll test it out, but right now, having no camber gauge makes it complicated (snow + car stored)

Patrick...who deliberatly wants to be told to stick with what works, SPC, to stfu about it, and to stop crying about the hypothetical bumpsteer.

 

granted, the left is an aftermarket arm. but given the height difference, there is definitely uca camber curve change (steeper) from the oem at the same camber setting. it will only become grater the more camber you put into it. is it necessarily a bad thing? dunno.

 

there are other ways to get more camber from the stock UCA and balljoint.

 

Yeah, you could invite Tyson over and he'll bang on your upright with a really big hammer.

 

Is there a point in writing this, but not sharing the core knowledge on a web-based forum ? I'd suspect 2 X chromosomes if it wasn't sexist.

I'll rephrase : who's running OEM UCA and more than 3 degrees of negative camber ? And for the sake of discussion forums...discussion is implied.

 

-2.5 here with a 2 inch drop...

maybe go lower? or get the camber kits that replace the rear mounts on the stock arms with the sliding type?

 

or buy skunk2 arms??? i don't know if you are restricted to oem uca's due to some class restriction or something.

 

I've had skunk2 pro V1 and V2, Hardrace...and threw both in the garbage.

SPC are fine...but I am, again, wondering how possible is it to use OEM UCA...

Kind of a useless thought I am having...don't bother trying to understand its dynamic.

 

ok. well, good luck.

 

Slot the UCA to frame mounting holes or replace that little piece that connects them or shim it with a wedge so that it tilts further inboard or get eccentric bushings. Don't lower your car to achieve camber and then start some dumb thread about front/rear balance and "rotation" while the front is sitting on the bump stops. Thanks.

 

You could get offset bushings in the anchor pivots on the UCA for a degree or so.

You could get SPC anchor bolts and "flip them around" which will gain you massive camber something like 5+ degrees of negative camber and you don't need to mess with the ball joint. The adjustment would also come by altering the location of offset in the bushing in the anchor.



Granted, these are for a CRX:
http://spcalignment.com/component/sp...AFrom&to=USATo

These are intended for use to correct negative camber on a street car but if you got one like the 84945 and turned it around you can "make it work" to give you lots of negative camber. I don't the 84955 part fitting if you flipped it.

 

It can't be done with a 96-00 chassis.

Nobody does it without bending the knukles or using aftermarket UCA.

Makes sens.

 

this is one of those ways to make it work, even on a EK chassis.

adapting an eccentric bushing is still viable on the EK chassis.

whats with not wanting to try what ppl are saying?

so much for discussion....

 

Bend the knuckles for camber, and go back to 100% stock UCAs should you decide that you want your full suspension travel again.

In regards to bumpsteer, even if the UCA looks to be at a different angle, the actual angle is the line from the UCA inboard pivot and balljoint pivot, which doesn't change with the taller balljoint.

However, adjusting the camber with the offset balljoint does change the UCA length, which can change bumpsteer.

 

I agree with what TunerN00b said.

BTW, -2.8 on my DC2, 4" ride height measured to the jacking points on 23" diameter tires, and no, my car didn't need more camber nor was it cornering on the bump stops. All stock knuckles and control arms. But then my approach to spring rates is "wrong". meh.

 

To follow solo-x

-2.6* front camber on my DC2, 6.25" ride height measured to the jacking points on 23" diameter tires, stock control arms and (as far as I can tell) bent knuckles. I need even more static camber, due to ride height and soft spring rates.

 

?Tyson bangs with a really big hammer? Who knew? ....

 

 

For our informations sake, how do you proceed exactly, and where do you hit ?

 

I know you are trying to stay with all OEM, but what are your reasons against SPC UCA? Clearance issues with upright at your ride height? (I assume that is what others are trying to fix with a BFH)

 

theres no "hitting" involved. it was a pedantic joke.

if you want to bend the knuckle, use heat and pressure and leverage.

but thats still not the only way, even with an EK chassis to get more camber.

 

They feel weird bumpsteer wise, but I did not get any measurements yet. I have been using them for about 10 events now.

I dislike slotting the UCA bolts holes, but appreciate the suggestion.

I am simply trying to get food for thoughts before actually measuring how much camber I manage to get with OEM UCA, and enough spring rate to go low enough. Though i will probably make something else feel wrong from going lower.

 

That's the price of changing the UCA length, bumpsteer.

If you want to return it to the stock bumpsteer, you'll need to go back to the stock length UCA. Or make a custom knuckle to change tie rod end mounting location, though if you're going to do that you might as well build the knuckle to provide more camber and not need the adjusted UCA...

 

Please tell sir

 

interesting thread