So I have a B16a3 bottom end that im gonna slap a brand new itr head on.. which arp head studs am I suppose to use?? My buddy told me to use the B16 head stud since its a type r head,, but when I check ebay,, the B18c5 engine is calling for gsr head studs.... can anyone chime in??? and if possible,, can you give me the part number on the arp head studs?? I have a set for the gsr engine, part number 208-4303 dunno if this is gonna work or not..

 

From what I've read (and what I'm currently using in my build) is you match the head studs with the head you are using.

 

so is the Integra type r head considered a gsr head B18 or a si head B16 head?? thats the confusing part..

 

Gsr or b16 ones will work

 

GSR will not.

B16 and Type-r heads are the same (shortest of the b-series), GSR is studs only work with GSR's.

 

Your right gsr are longer so you need to use the B16 ones

But gsr will work on itr..same part # from Honda for head studs. And I have gsr arp head studs in my B18C5

 

Everytime one of these threads comes up, there all always different answers and proof, I've seen websites selling b16 and type-r studs as the same and GSR seperately, and other websites selling them all as the same, and so forth.

 

Well then he wouldn't want the b16 one's if he is using a type-r head right? He would want type-r/gsr studs.

 

It matters on the block..he needs b16..the diff of the studs are how much they thread into the block

 

Get the studs based on which head you have. PR3 casting heads, get the "B16" ones, and P72 casting heads, get the "GSR" ones. I have had ZERO problems with building multiple B-series using that guide.

 

Yes you need the B16 ones. Think about it the itr head is the same casting as a b16 head. So if you think about it you pretty much have a full b16

 

b16-b16 studs
b18/20 - ls/b20 studs
gsr/lsv/b20v/any other crazy combo you have - gsr studs

If you have a gsr set they are probably just longer than b16 but might work. Give them a test fit.

 

Its based on the BLOCK guys. Not the head. On a B16 Head w/ GS-R block, we use GS-R headstuds.

 

I am currently using the studs from my b16a on my sleeved b18a1 block. They will all work but you should be using it based on the block. They are different lengths but nothing that should cause any issues. I have had zero issues and are on my 4th time re-torquing them. i will be changing them next time beacuse they've been torqued numerous times, not casue there for the b16 tho. Hopefully i wont need to be torquing them anytime soon tho. Fingers crossed

 

Understood. I've torqued mine twice in 7 years.

 

If it's based on the block, how come for LSVTEC's you use the studs for the head you have?? And I know LS studs have two longer studs in the middle.

 

Cause My original build was a built b16a...When that **** the bed on the dyno with No2 i Sleeved a b18a1 block and went FI. It wasnt nessacary to buy another set of ARP's so i kept the b16a's...They worked just fine

 

I think you answered your own question

honestly I've seen b16 ones on lsvtecs with no issues but they are shorter

 

But I'm saying, if you get studs based on the block, why are ls/b20v's based off the head?

You would figure that, say, a gsr block with b16 head would used b16 studs. Hence the name "head"studs lol. I'm not disagreeing with you guys, just saying, it's weird.

 

i see youre logic... Either way there pretty universal accross b series...a few mm difference is only going to be another Turn on the nut of the stud...wow that doesnt sound right lol

 

because on an ls head where the two center studs bolt up is in a raised section. the two middle studs are longer.

 

I know, read my post before the one you quoted.

 

omg,, so many mixed response,, dont know who to listen to... lol this is kinda critical for me cause I want to do it right the first time.. my B16 block has forged pistons and rods and new bearings in them and im gonna be boosting this set up.. so 9000rpm + 18psi = no room for mistake,, lol I dont want to take it all apart again and re-do it..

 

Get b16 ones

 

call ARP and have them confirm
only they can really tell you which u need