1996 accord H22a or F20b?
Hello Honda-tech, I have recently purchased a 96 accord ex 4dr. I am looking to swap a new motor and have done loads of research but still have a few questions. I know that my car is obd2 so I don't know which route would be easier for a first time honda swap. I do not know if I should convert the whole harness to obd1 and run the 92-95 h22a or if I should stay obd2 and run 97-98 spec h22a or f20b with conversion harness to run a chipped p28. Money isnt really an issue as long as I keep it under 5k so I am open to any suggestions or input. Any and all information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
for doing "loads of research" you're asking very noobish questions.
if you're chipping an ecu, it doesn't really matter what obd you run as long as you the correct jumper harness down to the P28.
most people will talk about the lack of torque on the F20b, i call BS personally.
H22 seems to be the more popular choice.
jdmenginedepot is an Ebay seller in New Jersey, probably a good bet for a good motor in your area.
if you're chipping an ecu, it doesn't really matter what obd you run as long as you the correct jumper harness down to the P28.
most people will talk about the lack of torque on the F20b, i call BS personally.
H22 seems to be the more popular choice.
jdmenginedepot is an Ebay seller in New Jersey, probably a good bet for a good motor in your area.
ha, after looking back at what I posted it was noobish.... I worded it wrong. I was concerned with the wiring using my current harness with the new swaps. Like I said before this is going to be my first swap and just wanted to get a little info. Thank you for the information you gave about the motor purchase and I think I will be going with the f20b.
You want torque? Put a straight T3 turbo, keep it @ 7 psi and tune it right.
Cheapest alternative and as long as you don't get boost happy and mess with it, the stock engine will last a long time.
And, if it does blow up, F22's are a dime a dozen.
Cheapest alternative and as long as you don't get boost happy and mess with it, the stock engine will last a long time.
And, if it does blow up, F22's are a dime a dozen.
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http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc...ry&keyword=JDM USDM Engines&hit=10
H23 = 200hp 169lb/ft torque
do you really think 14lbs are going to make any difference for a daily driven car that doesn't see the track?
F20b = 200hp 145lb/ft torque
http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc...ry&keyword=JDM USDM Engines&hit=10
H23 = 200hp 169lb/ft torque
do you really think 14lbs are going to make any difference for a daily driven car that doesn't see the track?
http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc...ry&keyword=JDM USDM Engines&hit=10
H23 = 200hp 169lb/ft torque
do you really think 14lbs are going to make any difference for a daily driven car that doesn't see the track?
Decided to go with an obd1 h22a. The extra cash I have left over will be used for some suspension components and a set of slipstreams. Thanks again for the replies.
Don't forget that those are numbers measured from the crank shaft. With drive train loss these engines put approx. 80-85% of the listed numbers to the ground. Just FYI. I agree that it sounds so much nicer to throw around the higher numbers though. 
Yes Greenflashlight, the F22B1 is rated @ 145 hp & 147 tq and the F22B2 is rated @ 130 hp & 139 tq at the crank.
Good luck with your swap

Yes Greenflashlight, the F22B1 is rated @ 145 hp & 147 tq and the F22B2 is rated @ 130 hp & 139 tq at the crank.
Good luck with your swap
Hey whats up!!! i just finished my swap and i ran into a problem. i have a 99 accord f20b with ah h23 tranny stage 3 clutch 10lb flywheel also lsd converted im running a auto pcb ecu...... when driving, my car wont go past 5000rpm. i read on this very site that its supposed to redline at 8200rpm and vtec kicks in at 5500rpm........ can anybody help me with this......
92-96 prelude = 2840lbs
94-97 accord = 2855lbs
The weight is virtually the same as the lude's so any H series should perform relatively well in an accord, and correct me if i'm wrong but isn't a F20b a jdm motor not produced in the US, so wouldn't parts be harder and more exspensive to hunt down? I'd stick with an H imho, unless your wanting to do something against the norm
most of the F20b is identical to an H22, the major differences being the engine sleeves and the rotating assembly being a destroked H22. the Heads are almost the same. It wouldn't be hard to get what you needed, IMO
I have a f20b in a 98 accord. Its a very fun car even with the crappy f23 trans. And almost all H parts will work, intake,exhaust manifold,plugs,wires,altnator etc etc etc. Even H cams are the same.
i have a 97 acoord and ive been considering both swaps the car will be a dd but i want more pep whats a better one to go with. also considering doing nitrious whats a safe amount of shots to run??
If it was me i would go with h23a.
j
dm h23a vtec spec
Horsepower: 215hp@7100rpm
Torque: 169lbs-ft@5300rpm
Redline: 7600rpm
jdm h22a1 spec
Horsepower: 200hp@6800rpm
Torque: 161lbs-ft@5500rpm
Redline: 7200rpm
jdm h22a-s spec
Horsepower: 225hp@7200rpm
Torque: 163lbs-ft@6500rpm
Redline: 7200rpm
j
dm h23a vtec spec
Horsepower: 215hp@7100rpm
Torque: 169lbs-ft@5300rpm
Redline: 7600rpm
jdm h22a1 spec
Horsepower: 200hp@6800rpm
Torque: 161lbs-ft@5500rpm
Redline: 7200rpm
jdm h22a-s spec
Horsepower: 225hp@7200rpm
Torque: 163lbs-ft@6500rpm
Redline: 7200rpm
Don't forget to factor in the price for those JDM swaps?
JDM H23A VTEC $1100 + shipping (engine only)
JDM H22A Type S $3300 + shipping (ECU, engine and trans)
JDM H22A Base $1800 + shipping (ECU, engine and trans)
JDM F20B VTEC $1000 + shipping (engine only)
JDM H23A VTEC $1100 + shipping (engine only)
JDM H22A Type S $3300 + shipping (ECU, engine and trans)
JDM H22A Base $1800 + shipping (ECU, engine and trans)
JDM F20B VTEC $1000 + shipping (engine only)
hi i just did the h23a swap on my 97 accord ex. I'm having problems with the distributor I'm using f22 wiring the h23 distributor plug has 8 pins and the f22 distributor plug has 5 pins. idk what kind of distributor would work or what can i have to do.
You can use your f22 wiring harness and the h23 dizzy. That is what I had to do and it was actually pretty easy to do. The faq section in this forum has all the information needed on how to rewire for the obd1 dizzy.


