Put in my Mishimoto rad
So I finally replaced my stock, original radiator in my 1998 Type R. Not too many hiccups during install. Stock fan connectors were cut and reused on the new fans. Bought new Mishimoto hoses in red! *fist pump* lol. Fan to header clearance is EXTREMEMLY close!
So I have a few questions, I'm seeing my coolant temp needle fluctuate from where it was stock to a little cooler than stock, so I thought this might indicate bleeding is still needed. So I took off the rad cap and turned the car on and let the fan kick on 5-6 times. As the fan kicks on the coolant level drops quite a bit in the rad, so I fill it up to the brim, next fan kick on, level drops again about the same amount and i fill it up to the brim. I continue this 4 more times and this thing is still needing filling up when the fans kick on. So I drove around for about 10 mins, came back and did more bleeding. still doesnt want to fill up. so i tighten the drain plug a big, dont see any leaking from any hoses or drain plug. I also noticed while waiting for the fans to kick on I would rev the motor, and sometimes this would cause tiny bubbles to float up or a big bubble to come up and the coolant level would drop once again.
is this normal at all? any input is appreciated, thanks!
Big Thanks to BlueR for a great deal on the parts, and Nate Thomasson @ Rising Sun Auto in Culpeper, VA for a great install.
So I have a few questions, I'm seeing my coolant temp needle fluctuate from where it was stock to a little cooler than stock, so I thought this might indicate bleeding is still needed. So I took off the rad cap and turned the car on and let the fan kick on 5-6 times. As the fan kicks on the coolant level drops quite a bit in the rad, so I fill it up to the brim, next fan kick on, level drops again about the same amount and i fill it up to the brim. I continue this 4 more times and this thing is still needing filling up when the fans kick on. So I drove around for about 10 mins, came back and did more bleeding. still doesnt want to fill up. so i tighten the drain plug a big, dont see any leaking from any hoses or drain plug. I also noticed while waiting for the fans to kick on I would rev the motor, and sometimes this would cause tiny bubbles to float up or a big bubble to come up and the coolant level would drop once again.
is this normal at all? any input is appreciated, thanks!
Big Thanks to BlueR for a great deal on the parts, and Nate Thomasson @ Rising Sun Auto in Culpeper, VA for a great install.
Hmmmm, interesting. Im going to keep a close eye on this, I was just about to order this same set up. I'm turboed so Im curious to see if my log mani and turbo will fit.
And as for your issue, I had a similar problem when I had to change out the radi in my ole eg afew years back. I took a while swapping the old and new radi out and it ended up completly draining the system dry so it took ALOT more coolant that I would have thought.
Did you keep track of how much came out when you swapped it?
And as for your issue, I had a similar problem when I had to change out the radi in my ole eg afew years back. I took a while swapping the old and new radi out and it ended up completly draining the system dry so it took ALOT more coolant that I would have thought.
Did you keep track of how much came out when you swapped it?
Hmmmm, interesting. Im going to keep a close eye on this, I was just about to order this same set up. I'm turboed so Im curious to see if my log mani and turbo will fit.
And as for your issue, I had a similar problem when I had to change out the radi in my ole eg afew years back. I took a while swapping the old and new radi out and it ended up completly draining the system dry so it took ALOT more coolant that I would have thought.
Did you keep track of how much came out when you swapped it?
And as for your issue, I had a similar problem when I had to change out the radi in my ole eg afew years back. I took a while swapping the old and new radi out and it ended up completly draining the system dry so it took ALOT more coolant that I would have thought.
Did you keep track of how much came out when you swapped it?
jack up the front of your car and bleed it again. this will help the air ride to the highest point. while you're bleeding, squeeze the top radiator hose to help it push bubbles out the radiator.
all while doing this, keep the engine rev's at around 2500 rpms. you can use a vice grip or screw driver to keep it constant.
all while doing this, keep the engine rev's at around 2500 rpms. you can use a vice grip or screw driver to keep it constant.
jack up the front of your car and bleed it again. this will help the air ride to the highest point. while you're bleeding, squeeze the top radiator hose to help it push bubbles out the radiator.
all while doing this, keep the engine rev's at around 2500 rpms. you can use a vice grip or screw driver to keep it constant.
all while doing this, keep the engine rev's at around 2500 rpms. you can use a vice grip or screw driver to keep it constant.
You want to open up every path that the coolant can go too. So yes blast the heat. And I looked up so other alloy radi threads and a few people have the same issue. I would just keep adding untill its full. Keep on top of it for a few days and if your level stays constant and you dont over heat then your golden.
You want to open up every path that the coolant can go too. So yes blast the heat. And I looked up so other alloy radi threads and a few people have the same issue. I would just keep adding untill its full. Keep on top of it for a few days and if your level stays constant and you dont over heat then your golden.
Thanks again!
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yeah u dont have to turn on the blower. but i do. bc then you know if its hot or not. if its hot u know there is coolant in the heater core. if its luke warm u have a bubble if cold. no coolant.
just make sure the walve opens on the fire wallwhen u crank it to hot.
just make sure the walve opens on the fire wallwhen u crank it to hot.
Normally at the shop we turn on the defroster cause it's halps with cycling bc it will turn the fan on there is a funnel out there that bolts onto the radiator and holds coolant which adds it when air comes out. Been using it 10 years now with no problems
i think thats the funnel my friend used to bleed right after install. It comes with different rad caps with openings for the no spill funnel. I should go get one instead of spilling coolant all over the place trying to rush when the fans kick on. Lol. Thanks for your help!
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i think thats the funnel my friend used to bleed right after install. It comes with different rad caps with openings for the no spill funnel. I should go get one instead of spilling coolant all over the place trying to rush when the fans kick on. Lol. Thanks for your help!
Thanks for your help! Much appreciated!
on my drive to work this morning, i blasted the heat as high as it could go, and it got just as hot as with the stock rad, which is pretty toasty. I checked the overflow tank and it was extremely low, although it does have a uber slow leak, it would get so low that it near empty. The small leak is about the middle of the bottle where it slides into the holder. So it being so low indicates its still bleeding?
Did you follow the open the bleeder screw while you was adding coolant. When you open the bleeder screw when adding coolant it pushes the air out through the bleeder hole. Also you do want the heat on high when you fill it.
Add coolant until you see no more air bubbles coming from the bleeder screw once you see the steady flow coming from the bleeder screw.
Add coolant until you see no more air bubbles coming from the bleeder screw once you see the steady flow coming from the bleeder screw.
Did you follow the open the bleeder screw while you was adding coolant. When you open the bleeder screw when adding coolant it pushes the air out through the bleeder hole. Also you do want the heat on high when you fill it.
Add coolant until you see no more air bubbles coming from the bleeder screw once you see the steady flow coming from the bleeder screw.
Add coolant until you see no more air bubbles coming from the bleeder screw once you see the steady flow coming from the bleeder screw.
There was no mention of a bleeder screw in the 98 service manual, so i assume there isnt one. But thanks for throwing that suggestion out.
just an update, drove to and from work monday, rad was full and reservoir near empty. Max'd out the reservoir. Drove to and from work tues., both days driving with high heat blasting, an hour drive each way, checked rad and reservoir tbis morning b4 work and rad was level was perfect, right at the neck, reservoir was still at max line. Gonna keep an eye on it a few more days, but i think its done bleeding. Thanks to everyone for ur help and suggestions.
just an update, drove to and from work monday, rad was full and reservoir near empty. Max'd out the reservoir. Drove to and from work tues., both days driving with high heat blasting, an hour drive each way, checked rad and reservoir tbis morning b4 work and rad was level was perfect, right at the neck, reservoir was still at max line. Gonna keep an eye on it a few more days, but i think its done bleeding. Thanks to everyone for ur help and suggestions.
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jdmspoonitr
Acura Integra Type-R
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Oct 13, 2006 05:10 PM




