just purchased a s40 b000 trans "allegedly" 80k miles

trans is apart, although...

1. 3 ***** fell out of it on removal, stops the trans from popping out of gear?

2. not sure the main things to look out for? (considering bearings and cleanup while apart.)

3. is there synchro and gear/selector or other wear to look out for?

The magnet only had light metal particles with slight grit to it.

 

Wait, you cracked open the bell housing without a service manual, or any idea what you were doing?

Go a service manual like, now, as well as a set of feeler gauges, ring openers, a hook and pick set, and a slide hammer. You're going to need them. If you already have the bell housing open, you might as well go ahead and replace all of the seals, bearings, and synchros, and inspect the teeth on the gears. You have three shafts, multiple bearings, multiple seals, and a few forks that all need to be within tight tolerance. If people like to call rebuilding motors a 10 on the difficulty scale, overhauling transmissions is more like a 10.5.

Seriously, get a service manual. It will have a full list of tolerances for EVERYTHING, and will tell you what to look for as far as wear items go. Transmission overhauls aren't easy, and they have to be done right the first time.

 

The ***** go under 3 detent bolts, make sure you replace the crush washers under them with new ones.

Replace the input shaft bearing and seal, it's usually a good idea to change the top countershaft bearing as well.

Make sure the bottom countershaft bearing is seated in the case all the way and stake it there so it doesn't walk out (if it does it will pop out of 2nd gear)

Disassemble the gear stacks and check the gears, sleeves and hubs for wear, check the gear to synchro clearance as well.

Check the 3rd/4th shift fork for wear, they're almost always beyond the service limit. Normally I just weld on them and grind them down till they're back in spec.

Clean the input and countershafts up really well, especially inside, make sure all the oil passages are clean and free of debris.

Check all bearings you're planning to reuse for noise and play.

 

I really wouldn't agree with that. Transmissions are pretty simple and you really don't need any special tools (although a good pair of snap ring pliers is highly recommended.) You don't need to torque anything other than diff bolts, there's no plastigauge to deal with etc. I'd say it's quite a bit easier than doing an engine rebuild.

 

Maybe it's all personal experience, then. Blocks and heads have always been easy to me - transmissions, not so much. There's a reason I have a transmission guy in town :D

 

the 96-00 service manual, the one with the green cover?
i have almost all of the tools listed except a hook and pick, for snap rings?

so recommendation is to follow the step by step in the service manual? makes sense, i forgot i even had it. the synchrotech kit is good from what i've been reading, although i was just trying to keep it cheap, 75 invested in the trans so far. if i had the cash i would do a mfactory overhaul, a guy can dream right.

 

oh and, the counter shaft bearing was seated the input shaft bearing was quiet no loud bearings from first glance. there was some rust on the diff bearing shields and inside the diff (not on the splines) rust was from the transmission sitting. this might be a dumb question but sandblasting the transmission housing a bad idea? even if its going through a parts washer after?

 

Input shaft bearings go bad often enough that I almost always replace them whether the trans needs it or not (they're only about $20 right from Honda) and because input shaft seal is under the bearing that I don't want to reuse not that I've hammered on the inner race beating the ***** against the outer race. Remember if the seal leaks all that transmission fluid is going to contaminate the clutch disc.

I sandblasted one transmission case, make sure tape up or plug every opening extremely well! and make sure you clean the case out when you're done. What I did was reassemble the case with nothing in it and blasted it, it turned out nice.

 

i forgot to mention reassembling it for sandblasting, and i was considering possibly clear coat or black paint when its done, keep it looking good longer.

 

Black paint looks like *** personally, just looks like someone cleaned up the tranny and painted it I painted mine a silver as close to aluminum as I could find, you can buy a metalcast paint too, it's meant to look like fresh sandblasted metal.

 

black would be easier to match the engine block later.

 

Black sucks for an engine block and here's why, it makes it very hard to identify where an oil leak is coming from, orange or chev blue work pretty well though (but look weird on a Honda)

 

my eg i did black block and valve cover everything else just aluminum and it looked pretty good with some blue parts.

i'll take some pics of the trans and post them tomorrow

 

that looks way bigger than 640x480

 

Not to be a dick or anything, but those pics are absolutely useless. You need to use the macro setting (the flower) on your camera. Here's an example of a good pic from another thread:

 

the pics are from a older camera phone

 

Try an actual camera, cheap point and shoot is fine as long as you use the macro setting.

 

no luck with pictures i will have to borrow one from someone

reverse gear looks a little rough the corners are rounded and slightly burred. idler gear is in decent shape though. synchros have mostly sharp triangle edges, some are very lightly gouged (think thats a word).

 

how do i figure out what gear ratio the trans is? i read the hb and the coupe/sedan are different.

also how many 92-95 s20 b000 parts are interchangeable/beneficial?

 

No USDM hatchback came with an S40 B000 trans, coupe and sedan are both the same as long as it's an EX. HX is long, count the teeth on second gear and the final drive and divide to figure out the ratios.

Syncro rigns transfer (A000 does too) 1st, 3rd, 4th and 5th gears swap (also, 1st is the same ratio in all '92 - '00 trannys, and 4th is the same in at least most of them) bearings swap as well. If you can find a 5th gear set out of a '92 - '95 Si hatch or Del Sol Si it's geared marginally lower than the EX trannys.

Oh and don't worry too much about reverse. Unless it's brand new it'll look somewhat chewed up.

 

yeah the reverse gear had me freakin out.

seems tight between gears 1&2 - .127mm
seems like a lot of play in synchro sleeve 3&4 - 1.295mm

measurements aren't exact but very close.

 

68(FD)
42(2nd)

 

 

2nd gear has some wear (so does 1st, but unless first is really bad it doesn't matter much since you're hardly moving when downshifting into 1st) 3rd looks like it has a little wear as well, but should be reusable. Take the gear stacks apart and inspect the sleeves for wear. Also that 3rd/4th shift fork is worn pretty bad.

 

so what do you recommend replacing? the shift fork looked rough to me as well.

i can pick up a s20 b000 for $20 its missing shift forks and reverse though, not sure its of much use to me.