Time for a suspension over haul- Input please.
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I have a 01 ITR ( obviously lol ) and it's about time for an overhaul of the suspension.
Right now its on stock every thing with Tein lowering springs. I think I can't remember and I'm at work.
Ive started looking at a couple of different web sites to see what they offer, the different things that they offer, and what is limited in the type r world.
I want to replace the following.
Stock shock and spring set up with a Full Coilover- Most likly Tein.
Front and rear camber kit- Skunk 2, Omni, one of those 2.
Front lower ball joints- I have heard the buddy club ones are pretty decent.
Rear lower control arms, function? Skunk?
Havent decided on if im going ot upgrade the sway bars or not depends on how they and the endlinks look. Cusco perhaps.
Some sort of tie bar. I know the Type r bar is strong but yeah. You get the idea.
Pretty much a full overhaul.
Let me know what you guys have seen work, on other set ups. Throw me your opinions on what parts you think out perform others. Etc Etc
The car is a DD, makes 340 on 11 psi.
Thanks in advanced.
Right now its on stock every thing with Tein lowering springs. I think I can't remember and I'm at work.
Ive started looking at a couple of different web sites to see what they offer, the different things that they offer, and what is limited in the type r world.
I want to replace the following.
Stock shock and spring set up with a Full Coilover- Most likly Tein.
Front and rear camber kit- Skunk 2, Omni, one of those 2.
Front lower ball joints- I have heard the buddy club ones are pretty decent.
Rear lower control arms, function? Skunk?
Havent decided on if im going ot upgrade the sway bars or not depends on how they and the endlinks look. Cusco perhaps.
Some sort of tie bar. I know the Type r bar is strong but yeah. You get the idea.
Pretty much a full overhaul.
Let me know what you guys have seen work, on other set ups. Throw me your opinions on what parts you think out perform others. Etc Etc
The car is a DD, makes 340 on 11 psi.
Thanks in advanced.
skunk2 doesnt make a lower control arm for the ITR so you would have to use function 7 ones and i added a beaks bar to the bottom of my R because my stock one was missing and i already had a beaks bar from last car and i put buddy club camber kits front and rear
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From: In Texas watching out for the Fuzz, US
coilovers- most people have been liking the PIC select and give you lots of spring options
roadrace guys have koni and ground control with custom spring rates.
camber kit- the newer style front camber kits that has the adjustable bolts on bottom are a lot easier for doing alignment, I recommend SPC rear camber kit, lot better solid rubber. Skunk2 and others Ive seen wear out fast.
ball joint- buddy club makes the longer balljoint thats I still don't understand but is suppose to be better on lowered cars. I personally have have then or want to spend the money on them.
LCA's- If your oem LCA's dont have busted just use them oem ITR LCA's work best and are light and no real advantages to on aftermarket IMO( in know people or gonna go off about that)
Sway bar- I have a jdm 23mm and my car handles fine, unless you get a mugen 26mm (overpriced) or a ASR 32mm hollow bar. If your not roadracing just keep stock and jsut replace the OEM bushings.
Lower rear bar- Beaks lower bar looks cool but thats all it will be good for, stock ITR is enough
BTW WHAT # IS YOUR 01 ITR
roadrace guys have koni and ground control with custom spring rates.
camber kit- the newer style front camber kits that has the adjustable bolts on bottom are a lot easier for doing alignment, I recommend SPC rear camber kit, lot better solid rubber. Skunk2 and others Ive seen wear out fast.
ball joint- buddy club makes the longer balljoint thats I still don't understand but is suppose to be better on lowered cars. I personally have have then or want to spend the money on them.
LCA's- If your oem LCA's dont have busted just use them oem ITR LCA's work best and are light and no real advantages to on aftermarket IMO( in know people or gonna go off about that)
Sway bar- I have a jdm 23mm and my car handles fine, unless you get a mugen 26mm (overpriced) or a ASR 32mm hollow bar. If your not roadracing just keep stock and jsut replace the OEM bushings.
Lower rear bar- Beaks lower bar looks cool but thats all it will be good for, stock ITR is enough
BTW WHAT # IS YOUR 01 ITR
Due to your circumstances I say Tien Flex system hands down .. And if u want get the edfc to add to it and you can adjust the dampening electronically from inside the car if needed everything else I would leave alone especially since its your daily and you dont it to be to rigid ...GL
I'm surprised no one mentioned replacing the rear trailing arm bushing. I would suggest the Mugen or OE for street use. I use the PCI spherical versions on all of my cars.
I would also recommend changing your LCAs, sway bar bushings, endlink bushings and front compliance bushings with factory ITR peices.
I would also recommend changing your LCAs, sway bar bushings, endlink bushings and front compliance bushings with factory ITR peices.
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It's 01-0401
And yeah all the bushings will be gone tree. Car just hit 100 k so that's a gimmie. I do like the look of the function lcas so I'll Probly do those. I'm headed back to nc this week to pick her up. So I'll post pics as sart a little build thread. Of the over haul. The brakes are getting done too.
Thanks for the input guys. Keep it coming
And yeah all the bushings will be gone tree. Car just hit 100 k so that's a gimmie. I do like the look of the function lcas so I'll Probly do those. I'm headed back to nc this week to pick her up. So I'll post pics as sart a little build thread. Of the over haul. The brakes are getting done too.
Thanks for the input guys. Keep it coming
My 98 R has 160k miles as of today. At about 100k I did a bunch of freshening (a bunch of bushings, all OE, shocks & struts & springs, ...) which made a big difference. But I'm not sure if they replaced ALL the bushings that should have been replaced. Could someone list out what bushings and other non-permanent "stuff" should be swapped out, so that I can have my acura guy check what was replaced, and replace what wasn't? Since this thread is about suspension, I thought those who posted might have a list somewhere?
Thanks in advance,
Steve
Thanks in advance,
Steve
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My 98 R has 160k miles as of today. At about 100k I did a bunch of freshening (a bunch of bushings, all OE, shocks & struts & springs, ...) which made a big difference. But I'm not sure if they replaced ALL the bushings that should have been replaced. Could someone list out what bushings and other non-permanent "stuff" should be swapped out, so that I can have my acura guy check what was replaced, and replace what wasn't? Since this thread is about suspension, I thought those who posted might have a list somewhere?
Thanks in advance,
Steve
Thanks in advance,
Steve
Hijacking my thread lol jkjk. Hopefully some one can chime in. With what is best things to replace.
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What exactly needs to be replaced? How many miles are on the car? As far as replacement parts like the lower ball joints and LCAs...you can't really go wrong with OEM stuff. OEM ball joints and bushings last a MUCH longer time than aftermarket stuff. www.bernardiparts.com is a pretty good place for OEM Acura stuff.
I have the skunk2 pro series camber kits. Up front, the ball joint looks pretty decent. I re-used my OEM bushings as they were in great shape...but if they weren't, I'd either get another set of OEMs or get some polyurethane ones. Out back, the pro series camber kit comes with poly bushings and looks pretty solid. I'm using mine to ADD negative camber.
Tein's street level coilover kits are kinda...meh. I'd choose AMR for coilovers at the $1200 price range. Or obviously the Koni/GC combo for the $800 price range.
Why do you want bigger sway bars and tie bars for a daily driver? Seems like you're just blindly modding it. The stock stuff is made pretty well. I would recommend just leaving all that stuff alone.
I have the skunk2 pro series camber kits. Up front, the ball joint looks pretty decent. I re-used my OEM bushings as they were in great shape...but if they weren't, I'd either get another set of OEMs or get some polyurethane ones. Out back, the pro series camber kit comes with poly bushings and looks pretty solid. I'm using mine to ADD negative camber.
Tein's street level coilover kits are kinda...meh. I'd choose AMR for coilovers at the $1200 price range. Or obviously the Koni/GC combo for the $800 price range.
Why do you want bigger sway bars and tie bars for a daily driver? Seems like you're just blindly modding it. The stock stuff is made pretty well. I would recommend just leaving all that stuff alone.
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From: In Texas watching out for the Fuzz, US
if you need trailing arm bushing I think part # is 52385-sr3-003, for crv but half price of integra ones and exactly the same
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From: Va Beach. VA
What exactly needs to be replaced? How many miles are on the car? As far as replacement parts like the lower ball joints and LCAs...you can't really go wrong with OEM stuff. OEM ball joints and bushings last a MUCH longer time than aftermarket stuff. www.bernardiparts.com is a pretty good place for OEM Acura stuff.
I have the skunk2 pro series camber kits. Up front, the ball joint looks pretty decent. I re-used my OEM bushings as they were in great shape...but if they weren't, I'd either get another set of OEMs or get some polyurethane ones. Out back, the pro series camber kit comes with poly bushings and looks pretty solid. I'm using mine to ADD negative camber.
Tein's street level coilover kits are kinda...meh. I'd choose AMR for coilovers at the $1200 price range. Or obviously the Koni/GC combo for the $800 price range.
Why do you want bigger sway bars and tie bars for a daily driver? Seems like you're just blindly modding it. The stock stuff is made pretty well. I would recommend just leaving all that stuff alone.
I have the skunk2 pro series camber kits. Up front, the ball joint looks pretty decent. I re-used my OEM bushings as they were in great shape...but if they weren't, I'd either get another set of OEMs or get some polyurethane ones. Out back, the pro series camber kit comes with poly bushings and looks pretty solid. I'm using mine to ADD negative camber.
Tein's street level coilover kits are kinda...meh. I'd choose AMR for coilovers at the $1200 price range. Or obviously the Koni/GC combo for the $800 price range.
Why do you want bigger sway bars and tie bars for a daily driver? Seems like you're just blindly modding it. The stock stuff is made pretty well. I would recommend just leaving all that stuff alone.
Anyone have any thing goos to say about the energy bushing kits. The onethat has every bushing in it.
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