Does my civic need a new paint job? (pics)
Hello new to this forums and have a question regarding my paint on my 1999 Honda Civic. Before i spend 2000.00 dollars to repaint it i would like to know if it is even required. After 12 years my paint finally has oxidation from the so-cal weather i guess. My question is, the overall paint on the car is very good and looks brand new except for the trunk and a little bit on the side of the trunk have oxidation. The roof is perfect, however the above the rear window there is a bit of fade on both sides. Do i need to repaint the entire vehicle? or is it possible to fix these spots? If i did repaint it, i would repaint it forest green. Suggestions would be great. And for anyone located in the Los Angeles area the shop i will be going to is Tho's Auto Collision in Westminister.






Classic clear coat failure. If you find a good painter, they could paint just the damaged areas and blend out, but I bet you'd have a hard time finding someone willing to do this. It is quite likely that more clearcoat will fail soon. The spots above the doors might respond well to some buffing love, but it is hard to know without a proper paint gauge and a way to feel the paint.
yeah just get the deck lid painted and blend out to the upper 1/4 than up the c-piller. it will cost way less. if you have front end paint damage than I'm sure you can get a blend job there also.
Price it around, if you plan on keeping it and it runs good paint it, not worth trying to fix it, if it was like just the hood or just trunk yo can do panels, in your case you need to paint the car to make it look good.
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who would even wana try to tackle that challenge not to mention the rest of the car that you didnt update with new paint will be likely to oxidize just like the parts hes fixing. and by the looks of it theres a pretty good portion of the car that needs repainting. might as well just get it all done right the first time. and also this is your chance to paint it any color you want Si Blue, black, gunmetal gray etc.
who would even wana try to tackle that challenge not to mention the rest of the car that you didnt update with new paint will be likely to oxidize just like the parts hes fixing. and by the looks of it theres a pretty good portion of the car that needs repainting. might as well just get it all done right the first time. and also this is your chance to paint it any color you want Si Blue, black, gunmetal gray etc.

Oh yes, clearly the only way to make the car look presentable is by throwing about 3 grand at it.
Blending isn't that hard, color changes are.
Spots that are not exposed to constant direct sunlight are less likely to have the clearcoat fail. That's why you never see clearcoat failure on peoples doors or rocker panels. If the blending is done well and properly, he won't have to worry about it.
who would even wana try to tackle that challenge not to mention the rest of the car that you didnt update with new paint will be likely to oxidize just like the parts hes fixing. and by the looks of it theres a pretty good portion of the car that needs repainting. might as well just get it all done right the first time. and also this is your chance to paint it any color you want Si Blue, black, gunmetal gray etc.
In my opinion blending is an option although I personally have not seen anyone able to do it perfectly at any given angle or sun glare. At some point you will notice that something changed. I will say that the newer technologies make this harder to detect but if you look closely you will see a blend especially when you compare metal to urethane. For some odd reason those two materials take paint differently after they have already been sprayed from factory.

Oh yes, clearly the only way to make the car look presentable is by throwing about 3 grand at it.
Blending isn't that hard, color changes are.
Spots that are not exposed to constant direct sunlight are less likely to have the clear coat fail. That's why you never see clear coat failure on peoples doors or rocker panels. If the blending is done well and properly, he won't have to worry about it.
And what about the engine bay and the door pillars? Seems odd to leave that the stock green with the rest of the car blue. Good idea but that is even more money.
In my opinion blending is an option although I personally have not seen anyone able to do it perfectly at any given angle or sun glare. At some point you will notice that something changed. I will say that the newer technologies make this harder to detect but if you look closely you will see a blend especially when you compare metal to urethane. For some odd reason those two materials take paint differently after they have already been sprayed from factory.
In my opinion blending is an option although I personally have not seen anyone able to do it perfectly at any given angle or sun glare. At some point you will notice that something changed. I will say that the newer technologies make this harder to detect but if you look closely you will see a blend especially when you compare metal to urethane. For some odd reason those two materials take paint differently after they have already been sprayed from factory.

Oh yes, clearly the only way to make the car look presentable is by throwing about 3 grand at it.
Blending isn't that hard, color changes are.
Spots that are not exposed to constant direct sunlight are less likely to have the clearcoat fail. That's why you never see clearcoat failure on peoples doors or rocker panels. If the blending is done well and properly, he won't have to worry about it.
you should only need to repaint the area's were the clear coat is oxidized. color will only be needed where the basecoat was exposed or sanded through, and about two coats of clear maybe three (if needed)
buff the rest of the car, cut the larger scratches out with 2,000 grit wet.
thats all you should need, unless you have body damage you want fixed
buff the rest of the car, cut the larger scratches out with 2,000 grit wet.
thats all you should need, unless you have body damage you want fixed
when the clear breaks down/flakes away, cutting and buffing will not help because the base coat is exposed. a few of the pictures shows the clear failing and pealing back.
in other area's where the clear is dull but still intact, yes it will help
in other area's where the clear is dull but still intact, yes it will help
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