4 wire o2 obd0?
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From: suck it easy,WA
So i have a little situation iv been dealing with
Im running a y7 in my hatch mpfi with a6 intake mani and y8 header
Im running it all obd0 pm6
Iv been getting cel for o2 so what i want to know if i can run a 4wire o2 on my obd0 car
How would i do it?
Or what else can i do to solve my o2 issues?
Im running a y7 in my hatch mpfi with a6 intake mani and y8 header
Im running it all obd0 pm6
Iv been getting cel for o2 so what i want to know if i can run a 4wire o2 on my obd0 car
How would i do it?
Or what else can i do to solve my o2 issues?
you could essentially run an obd1 o2 sensor, but then you would only be hooking up the signal wire and leave the rest unconnected. and you would pretty much then run the obd1/2 upstream o2 sensor as a single wire o2.
are you using a universal o2 sensor? or a direct fit that came with a factory style plug? i have had shops complain that universal o2's, even 1 wire o2's, give faulty readings.
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From: suck it easy,WA
I believe its a universal one....i didnt want to buy a oem one if it wasnt going to.work...so can you explain how i would do it a little bit more pls
its pretty simple. what your going to do is this:
1. take your single wire o2 sensor
2. attach the signal wire from your engine harness to the 4 wire o2 sensor
3. looking at the back side of a civic/integra 92+ o2 sensor you will connect it to this slot:

top left pin
4. your done.
essentially your bypassing the heater signal, power supply and ground. making it a regular non-heated o2 sensor.
1. take your single wire o2 sensor
2. attach the signal wire from your engine harness to the 4 wire o2 sensor
3. looking at the back side of a civic/integra 92+ o2 sensor you will connect it to this slot:

top left pin
4. your done.
essentially your bypassing the heater signal, power supply and ground. making it a regular non-heated o2 sensor.
For starters - Just so you know if you are using the downstream position, you can not use an O2 that isn't heated if you want it to work right. (Must use a heated O2 in this position.)
Here is the 4 wire O2 sensor wiring explained a little more.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/clearing-up-cel-codes-o2-wiring-help-3002053/
If you want to run a 4-wire without the proper ECU: Connect the power and heater to a switched source, ground = ground, signal = factory signal location (to put it short).
You can also run a GM 3 wire if you wanted to. If you need help with that here you go...
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/te...re-heated.html
(To sum it up on an aftermarket 3-wire O2: 2 wires same color = Switched Power and Ground. 1 wire different color = signal.)
A 1 wire would save you a lot of headaches and they are designed to be unheated already. Regardless of what you choose, a heated O2 (when hooked up properly) will always be better than a non-heated O2.
Troubleshooting an O2?
http://mr2.com/TEXT/O2_Sensor.html
Here is the 4 wire O2 sensor wiring explained a little more.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/clearing-up-cel-codes-o2-wiring-help-3002053/
If you want to run a 4-wire without the proper ECU: Connect the power and heater to a switched source, ground = ground, signal = factory signal location (to put it short).
You can also run a GM 3 wire if you wanted to. If you need help with that here you go...
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/te...re-heated.html
(To sum it up on an aftermarket 3-wire O2: 2 wires same color = Switched Power and Ground. 1 wire different color = signal.)
A 1 wire would save you a lot of headaches and they are designed to be unheated already. Regardless of what you choose, a heated O2 (when hooked up properly) will always be better than a non-heated O2.
Troubleshooting an O2?
http://mr2.com/TEXT/O2_Sensor.html
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