New into AUTOX.. Coilover suggestions?
Hi HT,
I drive a 00ek coupe with a F20B swap, that was tuned by FULLBLOWN MOTORSPORT. I just recently pick up some front Brembo D/S Rotor along with some Hawk Performance Brake, F/R Ksport Camber with Ksport Toe Kit and some Ebay stainless steel brake. (Everything BNIN) Im getting my LSD tranny rebuild at the moment. I want this car to be a daily driver and autoX. So my questions are:
Have anyone ever had Ksport Kontrol Pro Coilovers?
Would they be a good recommendation?
Others Coilovers?? (Price range $1000 top)
Is there anything else i should get?
I also have SI rear conversion brake but not working (plz help??)
Thanks HT
I drive a 00ek coupe with a F20B swap, that was tuned by FULLBLOWN MOTORSPORT. I just recently pick up some front Brembo D/S Rotor along with some Hawk Performance Brake, F/R Ksport Camber with Ksport Toe Kit and some Ebay stainless steel brake. (Everything BNIN) Im getting my LSD tranny rebuild at the moment. I want this car to be a daily driver and autoX. So my questions are:
Have anyone ever had Ksport Kontrol Pro Coilovers?
Would they be a good recommendation?
Others Coilovers?? (Price range $1000 top)
Is there anything else i should get?
I also have SI rear conversion brake but not working (plz help??)
Thanks HT
Last edited by 94EG8; Feb 14, 2012 at 05:30 AM. Reason: Better thread title
Here's a thought Ask other people what they're running when you go out next time. Also you might want to check the Autocross forum.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/road-racing-autocross-time-attack-19/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/road-racing-autocross-time-attack-19/
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koni/gc with your choice spring rates...if your set on spending money, AMR or KW's.I personally have only used koni/gc and tokico/tein springs.my friend has progress coils and loves them
just as it was stated before, there are a lot of better options available. koni/gc's are going to be one of the better options, and if you don't want to spend to much money, progress makes a great set as well. just focus on getting more seat time. oh and prepare to get slayed in auto-x, because if i'm not mistaken, your engine swap in your coupe puts you in street mod, which is a very competitive class with cars/drivers that are leagues ahead of our little honda's.
Cheap, no name, braided steel lines on a daily driver is asking for brake failure on the way to work, for absolutely no performance gain on course.
Steel brake lines are wear items, need regular inspection and replacement, and provide nothing except a change in pedal feel. Even if you decide the change in feel is worth the costs, hassle, and reduction in reliability, you should at least stick with a good brand name if you're going to be using them on public roads.
Steel brake lines are wear items, need regular inspection and replacement, and provide nothing except a change in pedal feel. Even if you decide the change in feel is worth the costs, hassle, and reduction in reliability, you should at least stick with a good brand name if you're going to be using them on public roads.
Cheap, no name, braided steel lines on a daily driver is asking for brake failure on the way to work, for absolutely no performance gain on course.
Steel brake lines are wear items, need regular inspection and replacement, and provide nothing except a change in pedal feel. Even if you decide the change in feel is worth the costs, hassle, and reduction in reliability, you should at least stick with a good brand name if you're going to be using them on public roads.
Steel brake lines are wear items, need regular inspection and replacement, and provide nothing except a change in pedal feel. Even if you decide the change in feel is worth the costs, hassle, and reduction in reliability, you should at least stick with a good brand name if you're going to be using them on public roads.
To actually answer the OP, since this is going to be a street mod car, Öhlins, Moton, or Koni 3012 or 2812 should be the choices here.
Why cheap out on the suspension of a highly modified engine swapped (already expensive) car?
Why cheap out on the suspension of a highly modified engine swapped (already expensive) car?
Honestly, if you want to be good at autocross you need to learn the car with fairly soft suspension. 400F/300R would be a good starting place. Later on you can switch the front springs to rear, and get stiffer front rates.
And get as big of a rear swaybar as you can stand.
Learning your car on too stiff a suspension will make you a bad driver. It really will. Run it stock for 2-3 events at least.
And get as big of a rear swaybar as you can stand.
Learning your car on too stiff a suspension will make you a bad driver. It really will. Run it stock for 2-3 events at least.
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