ok so i smashed on a new IS250 :cool: on the way home. i arrive home and my car starts smoking, turned it off right away. get out and check all my fluids, no freaking oil on my dipstick. crawl under and ther is oil everywhere on the under carriage. temperature didnt rise during any of this so i figured its my oil pan gasket rather then head gasket, but just read how there is a crank seal down ther too. fml!


going to call in sick and work on this 2maro but what do u guys think it is

 

mods, please move to "Kills".....oh wait.

 

You can listen to internet guesses or you can clean the engine, fill it with oil, run it and see where it is actually coming from.

 

Excellent!

 

thank u for ur answer, i came up with this last nite as well and will being trying that.

actually i got my JDM engine less then a yr ago off HMO, according to them it had 35,000 or less. and i changed the oil religiously about every month, watchd the oil levels to see how much my h22 burns as well. my compression seemed fine so dnt think piston rings were that bad. maybe ur right on the valve guides. i realize these engines arent new but i think its in bttr shape then u think and bttr shap then most Usdm h22 . i dnt think i killed it, idnt even go past 7400rpm, temp gauge didnt budge, i spat a hug puddle of oil in my driveway so id dnt hit 100% bone dry while driving.

 

Why it would be a bloody mess

 

lmao i think i am going to make this my sig.

 

seem as if oil is coming from the plate that covers my flywheel. what seal is that by the tranny, im guessing where the crank comes out the block to the flywheel?

 

Either a portion of your oil pan seal, or your rear main seal. Did you smack the bottom of the car on anything, curb, speed bump etc, while driving?

 

i hit a hump coming off the freeway on the way to class,after class is when this all happened, thought it was just my suspension bottoming out, dnt see any scratches on my oil pan but ill check again

turned it on n crawled under, still seems to be coming from inside the flywheel housing, rather then this oil cooler o ring. however im gna head over to honda now, replace this o ring since it seems easy to do and the oil pan gasket. if my leak continues then its that seal on the crank

 

It doesn't matter how low mileage an engine is, you MUST overhaul it before installing or every single seal will leak like crazy, a timing belt is also rubber which deteriorates with time, water pump will leak too.

The handful of people I've helped with swaps I strongly urge them to not install the engine until at least the rear main seal and EVERYTHING behind the timing covers has been replaced.

 

Hey, This happened to my 2000 SH, Its the oil cooler O-ring its a common problem

 

Hell I beat on my 253k engine and its 16 years old.

 

yeap i got a honda to bang on, not to baby like a porsche.

heres the deal tho. i opened up my transmission, that pressure plate bolt came off n ****ed up the inside of my tranny. clutch, pressure plate n flywheel are usuable still. also a small hole was broken on the rear seal plate, i found 80% of that in the oil pan. i plan on replaceing the plate the seals and either the tranny housing or the whole tranny.

my questions are, can i get a regular usdm tranny housing and put it on my lsd jdm tranny???

 

HOly moly, that sucks.

 

wow all of that because of one bolt? thats why you use good hardware and torque them so that doesn't happen. loctite is your friend.

 

Never seen that one before..... props.

 

Yeah thats some nice carnage! I have snapped the clutch pivot shaft bolt, blown springs out of clutches, snapped a crankshaft, etc. on my lude, but never done damage like that to the cases!

And no, if your tarnny is an LSD tranny the cases are different, and you can only use the same tranny code M2B4 to replace it. If you have an M2A4, M2S4, M2F4, you can swap them out though.

 

i get free loctite too go figure. i took my time on this, im positive i tightened all bolts w/ no loctite tho. i did put loctite on the flywheel bolts. i used the hardware ACTION CLUTCH provided me with. next time i will be using genuine OEM hardware.

thanks fellas, things are looking better. i thought the coolest thing was how the threads were perfectly pounded into the housing at sum spots. im posting results just for input and advice, but honestly cuz im learning as i go and forums can be helpfull. but hey all i can do b4 i go buy a h22euroR is at least try and fix this one . and im still hoping i didnt damage my piston rings from loss of oil, but due to the location of that hole im thinking the oil didnt gush out all at once, fingers crossed tho.

which brings up another question???
-i wondered if i should disassemble the head off the block so i can check the piston rings and cylinder walls for metal flakes, but then i would have to do the timing. i have only done timing on an SOHC and timing would add to my list of expenses. do u guys think i could be ok if i spin the crank manually maybe dislodge any more loose metal listen for bad noises, clean the oil pan, get magnetic drain bolt, seals/gaskets and just replace tranny(euroR)

 

even if you did fry your piston rings, why waste your money on another euro/jdm motor? just rebuild this one. that is some hard core carnage though. if anything pull the bell housing off and have that hole welded up

 

i doubt that you damaged any rings. rod bearings would be damaged way before rings. if your rod bearings look good i would not worry about it.

 

un question. the rear seal plate had some white gasket maker to seal it. hondabond is black, what should i use???

 

hondabond is fine. i have even used cheap black rtv with no problem.

 

^^^thanks. ordered a T2W4 today : )

 

Hondabond is grey. What flywheel is that? I had this same thing happen with my XTD clutch/flywheel and I wasn't ever sure if it was because someone didn't tighten it down properly. Or if the flywheel was defective