Is there a site that sells both as one kit,apr
Do I need studs I'm only running about 240hp
I was thinking just head bolts, then someone said to get studs also

 

What? Bolts and studs? WTF? The ARP's are just studs.

 

So I should go apr studs or oem bolts

 

? I don't think you understand

 

shouldnt need em under 300hp i thought just insurance

 

Bolts are like normal bolts but studs go in the block, u put the head on then nuts go on the studs?

 

It's one or the other my man.

 

What's better ge or arp

 

Ge or apr

 

not sure they make a JDM version of ARP studs

 

ARP always. No matter what other modifications the engine has. They are always good insurance.

 

Hahah I just realized that. "JDM head bolts".

 

Could I use 99-00 civic si head studs?
I'm unsure if my motor used bolts or studs

 

Im running a 607whp B16 OEM bolts daily driven daily beaten 22psi, no problems here.

My 2 cents

 

You wont need bolts.For your under 300hp goal Just arp headstuds for insurance so your head doesn't lift off which mst likely wont happen wit 240hp.

 

Did they switch from bolts to stud with arp

 

APR USES STUD ONLY

ill explain
when you tighten a bolt your turning and placing all the strain on the threads
(they can pull and strech or strip /shear)
with a stud like ARP
you put the stud into the block hand tight
(all the threads are meshed and secure )
then all the stress and strain as you tighten them is at the top of the stud

think about the stress point of the thread
Bolt = alloy block thread Vs high tenstile bolt thread **bolt wins**
Stud = high tenstile stud thread Vs high tenstile nut thread **even match**
(block thread dosnt move so less chance of failure as its fully meshed/engaged )

hope this helps

 

Kay I can just get b16a apr head stud
How many miles doin have to retighten them? If I do

 

nil
you do not need to redo them at all

i have a landcruiser FJ40 with a wild 6cyl with over 450,000Ks on it never touched the studs yet ..but soon to rebuild as its had its day

 

Your still not understanding lol Stock = bolts, ARP = Studs.

 

:FACEPALM: a stud is threaded on both sides u screw the stud into the block then a nut goes onto the stud to hold the head on, bolts: i think he means rod bolts but im not really sure. "How many miles doin have to retighten them? If I do" dont even know what to make of this sentance.

 

Are you rocommending OEM head bolts? Seriously?

And I'm sorry but I don't believe those numbers, at that PSI and daily driven. What turbo?

God I can't wait for your head to lift.

 

Sorry I daily drive it at 22psi, the 607 is at 34. My bad.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...2981009&page=2

About the ARPs, I trust my engine builder which is till the day, that I know of, the fastest B16 running an 8.7 1/4 mile and legal weight. He just uses OEM bolts which he used on his drag car. Some people use them, some people dont. Before my latest setup, running 400hp everyday, never has my head lifted ever. Hmmmm thats about 7 years.

By the way.... Karma is a bitch.

 

When using the arp stud I would hand tighten them into the block,
And is the torque the same as bolt

 

follow the instructions when you get them
studs are only done hand / finger tight into block then put head on block with head gasket and put washers and nuts on with ARP lube supplied with them and tighten in 3-4 passes to 80lb