Okay So Iam relocating the battery in the Trunk of my car Heres my finished diagram Iam running a breaker for safety.What size Fuse should I get??? Please any help?!?!?!?!?!



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For 2ga cable you can use up to a 225A fuse, a 200A will be fine, use a ANL type fuse with a post type fuse holder.

Get rid of the distribution block, [it only adds connections that are not needed/wanted]

Run the 2ga directly to the starter motor then run an 8ga from the starter to the engine bay fuse box.

Also, you do not need a 4ga from alt. to fuse box, unless you replaced the alt. with a 150A one. 94

 

I wouldn't even put the battery in the truck its a lot of hassel if you ever go to the track you'll need a battery box and kill switch outside the trunk. The cable is more weight and its easier to fit a smaller battery down by the fender. And I think the distribution block is an ok idea if you do decide to stuff it back there.

 

I pretty much did what you have drawn out. I ran 0g from the battery to a 150 amp switch type circuit breaker then to a distribution block under my passenger seat. Then 4g from the distribution block out to every thing else including the fuse box.

 

You do not need or want a distribution block, it adds unwanted connections, every connection is a point of resistance, and a potential failure point.

Also, there is nothing in the car that needs a 4ga cable, [other then tha batt. to starter lead, because of the distance a 2ga cable would be better].

Your far better off to run the batt. cable directly to the starter, just like stock, and an 8ga from the starter to the engine bay fuse box is more then enough. 94

 

I have my battery relocated and I am using 4 gauge from the battery to the fusebox. From the fuse box I have the stock (6 gauge I believe) going to the alternator and to the starter. My plan exactly was to run a 0 gauge from the battery up to a distribution block, and then 4 gauge to the alternator and 4 gauge to the starter. If you look at charts 80AMPS really maxes out 4 gauge around 14FT in length. Currently I have 15FT in length from battery to fusebox that is behind the firewall on the passenger floor because 15FT routed is simply not long enough.

 

Again, the batt. cable, whatever gauge you use, should run from the batt. DIRECTLY to the starter, the starter motor is what requires the most current in a car, that is why all car manufacturers run a lead from the batt. directly to the starter, [starter motor solenoid] and in most cases without any connection between the batt. and the starter.

Why would you add a connection point, [distributor block] when you can use the batt. connection on the starter as a distribution point. 94

 

There's not much of a voltage drop across connection points.
I see power cables running threw contactors and distribution blocks as well as control cables. And this is powering large dc drive motors.
It won't affect the voltage going to the starter unless its corroded to **** than yes maybe.
And if it were that much of a problem than the factory wire harnesses is crap cause there is distribution points all over that aren't needed but still present in the harness.

 

But not on the batt. cable to the starter motor, even Ford has gone away from the "off-board starter solenoid.

What I am saying is there is no advantage to using the distrobution block, only disadvantages, besides the extra connections there is extra cost, extra wiring, extra room is needed, again, no advantage at all just extra unneeded stuff to deal with

Also it is not the voltage drop you need to worry about, it is the current drop you need to worry about.

I know all about " large dc drive motors" we build electric cars.94

 

My reasoning is 0 gauge wire is big, now you have to run that through the firewall and then try to get a connector that large on the starter. Also couldn't you just bridge the alternator to the starter so power would feed back trough a single strand with an inline 80AMP? Or does cranking put more than 80AMPs to where it would blow?

 

Yes sir I agree with the extra hassel of the heavy wire extra connections and more possible areas for stuff to short to.
And I don't see an advantage to hav ing the battery in the trunk it just causes more wheel spin.
I'm curious now though to what kind of electric cars you build. I'm on my way now to rip out a huge drive motor from a forklift 2hrs away. Damn brushes

 

We will convert any car to electric...



All 3 are electric, the S10, [our service car] is 120V, the Bug-eye Sprite is 96V, [the bosses first electric car] and the bike is 72V, [the bosses summer DD].

We are now in the process of getting things together and designing an all electric 2012 Camaro, all wheel drive, [4 A/C motors] the owner just got a contract with GM to build photoelectric "car ports" for recharging electric GM vehicles, [look for more all electric GMs in the near future].

The Camaro must outperform the ZL1, should not be too hard, it is about 500HP and 550 pound-feet of torque, we are already at a little over 600HP and a push you back into the seat, 1800 pound-feet of torque, the real scary part is the 1800ft/lb torque is a 1 RPM and up.

Believe me, these motors will have the least number of connections between the batt. and motors possible. 94

 

For me the distribution block made the most logical sense. My fuse box is inside the car plus I had to run off for my remote terminals. My amplifier also. So the distribution block allowed me to make all my connections inside the car and only have to run 1 wire out to the starter

 

Any info on this? I am in the process of re-doing my wiring and I can't figure out what to do. Should the wiring run a ANL fuse near the firewall and near the battery in the trunk? Or just near the battery in the trunk? My design idea is basically identical to the OP's diagram