2006 V6 Accord, timing belt and clutch
I have a 2006 Accord with the 3.0 V6 and 6-speed manual transmission. It is my wifes daily driver and it is coming up to 110k. The only unplanned maintenance so far was a rear-seat dome light bulb
.
So, at this point the clutch is starting to disengage a bit early suggesting that it is starting to reach its useful life. During hard acceleration there is also a bit of a 'clunk' suggesting that the motor mounts are getting there. Also, at 110k I should probably get the timing belt and the water pump done.
I know that if I go to the dealer, they will just add up their block-hours for the three separate jobs and come up with a unreasonable number.
As tight as things are under that hood, I suspect that doing the TB will require substantial disassembly or possibly dropping the entire engine-tranny combo. Once we are a that point, doing the clutch and the motor mounts shouldn't be much additional work.
Anyone have an estimate how many hours it would take to do all three, TB+pump, timing belt and clutch in one trip to the shop ?
(and if it is not against the TOS: does anyone have a recommendation for an independent shop in northern VA/MD to do this.)
.So, at this point the clutch is starting to disengage a bit early suggesting that it is starting to reach its useful life. During hard acceleration there is also a bit of a 'clunk' suggesting that the motor mounts are getting there. Also, at 110k I should probably get the timing belt and the water pump done.
I know that if I go to the dealer, they will just add up their block-hours for the three separate jobs and come up with a unreasonable number.
As tight as things are under that hood, I suspect that doing the TB will require substantial disassembly or possibly dropping the entire engine-tranny combo. Once we are a that point, doing the clutch and the motor mounts shouldn't be much additional work.
Anyone have an estimate how many hours it would take to do all three, TB+pump, timing belt and clutch in one trip to the shop ?
(and if it is not against the TOS: does anyone have a recommendation for an independent shop in northern VA/MD to do this.)
I have a 2006 Accord with the 3.0 V6 and 6-speed manual transmission. It is my wifes daily driver and it is coming up to 110k. The only unplanned maintenance so far was a rear-seat dome light bulb
.
So, at this point the clutch is starting to disengage a bit early suggesting that it is starting to reach its useful life. During hard acceleration there is also a bit of a 'clunk' suggesting that the motor mounts are getting there. Also, at 110k I should probably get the timing belt and the water pump done.
I know that if I go to the dealer, they will just add up their block-hours for the three separate jobs and come up with a unreasonable number.
As tight as things are under that hood, I suspect that doing the TB will require substantial disassembly or possibly dropping the entire engine-tranny combo. Once we are a that point, doing the clutch and the motor mounts shouldn't be much additional work.
Anyone have an estimate how many hours it would take to do all three, TB+pump, timing belt and clutch in one trip to the shop ?
(and if it is not against the TOS: does anyone have a recommendation for an independent shop in northern VA/MD to do this.)
.So, at this point the clutch is starting to disengage a bit early suggesting that it is starting to reach its useful life. During hard acceleration there is also a bit of a 'clunk' suggesting that the motor mounts are getting there. Also, at 110k I should probably get the timing belt and the water pump done.
I know that if I go to the dealer, they will just add up their block-hours for the three separate jobs and come up with a unreasonable number.
As tight as things are under that hood, I suspect that doing the TB will require substantial disassembly or possibly dropping the entire engine-tranny combo. Once we are a that point, doing the clutch and the motor mounts shouldn't be much additional work.
Anyone have an estimate how many hours it would take to do all three, TB+pump, timing belt and clutch in one trip to the shop ?
(and if it is not against the TOS: does anyone have a recommendation for an independent shop in northern VA/MD to do this.)
Correct, I've done a timing belt on TL, which is very similar, it's extremely tight, but there is very little disassembly involved, nothing over a 4 cylinder timing belt anyway, there is just far less room to work. The only thing I will say is if you pull the transmission first you can slide the engine over and get a couple of extra inches to work when doing the timing belt.
umm, what? please dont take this advice. there is no way your gonna get a couple inches of room even if theres no tranny, wiring harness and motor mounts arent gonna let this happen. timing belt is easy and plenty of room. remove the right side mount (which is probably already torn open) then jack the motor up until it doesnt move anymore. this will give you the room you need. as far as the motor mounts, the right side is coming out during the belt job so replace that one if its torn open. if your getting a bang off of initial accell then its common for the front mount to be bad, see if its leaking hydraulic fluid and replace it. if your planning on a clutch job too then do it at a different time. the right side mount is whats going to hold your motor in and keep it pretty much aligned during clutch job, since the subframe will be removed, so your not saving anything by doing it all at once, just making a big job even bigger and more stressful. dont bite off more then you can chew. ive been at the dealer for 10 years and can tell you that the right tools for the job will get it down more then anything. my .02
I will admit I haven't done an Accord specifically, but I have done a TL which should be pretty much the same, and there is not a lot of room, it's all you can do to get at some of those timing cover bolts.
Thanks for the tips.
Where is the water-pump ?
Is the WP accessible during the TB job ?
Is it worthwhile to replace the TB tensioner ?
So it looks like it is probably going to be TB+water pump and maybe a motor mount in one sitting and I'll wait for the clutch to completely wear out before I have that done.
Where is the water-pump ?
Is the WP accessible during the TB job ?
Is it worthwhile to replace the TB tensioner ?
So it looks like it is probably going to be TB+water pump and maybe a motor mount in one sitting and I'll wait for the clutch to completely wear out before I have that done.
Trending Topics
Thanks for the tips.
Where is the water-pump ?
Is the WP accessible during the TB job ?
Is it worthwhile to replace the TB tensioner ?
So it looks like it is probably going to be TB+water pump and maybe a motor mount in one sitting and I'll wait for the clutch to completely wear out before I have that done.
Where is the water-pump ?
Is the WP accessible during the TB job ?
Is it worthwhile to replace the TB tensioner ?
So it looks like it is probably going to be TB+water pump and maybe a motor mount in one sitting and I'll wait for the clutch to completely wear out before I have that done.
yes
if the tensioner shows signs of leakage replace
the engine mounts are pretty prone to breakage but its common to find them still in one piece.
When we do the v6 timing belts at the dealer, we always replace timing belt, t belt tensioner, water pump, coolant, serp belt, usually the torn right front motor mount & always suggest spark plugs. Just my 2 cents. if you need to know the tools you will need let me know.
There is plenty of room for the experienced technician with swivel sockets, 1/4 air ratchets and experience. The weekend warrior/ novice mechanic calls this tight to impossble. I would save the money on a H20 pump and wait for the second timing belt to replace that. Its been my experience that the h20 pump will last 200k. Some ppl arbitrarily replace it because that is what their dealer suggests. I do however always replace the hydraulic tensioner/ tbelt/ drive belt and crank seal. As stated earlier the passenger mount off already so replace it with that saved h20 pump money. As far as your clutch goes just wait it out and when it fails replace the front mount then because the subframe will be out of the car already and it will only cost the part price then.
Removing the timing covers is only difficult, if you don't have the correct tools. I did the covers with a 1/4" ratchet. The only problem is, you need a different combination of extension and socket for each bolt. For one bolt, you might need a short extension and regular socket. For another bolt, you might need a deep socket and no extension. I certainly wouldn't take all the engine mounts off, just to make a little more room. That would be nuts.
There is plenty of room for the experienced technician with swivel sockets, 1/4 air ratchets and experience. The weekend warrior/ novice mechanic calls this tight to impossble. I would save the money on a H20 pump and wait for the second timing belt to replace that. Its been my experience that the h20 pump will last 200k. Some ppl arbitrarily replace it because that is what their dealer suggests. I do however always replace the hydraulic tensioner/ tbelt/ drive belt and crank seal. As stated earlier the passenger mount off already so replace it with that saved h20 pump money. As far as your clutch goes just wait it out and when it fails replace the front mount then because the subframe will be out of the car already and it will only cost the part price then.
There is plenty of room for the experienced technician with swivel sockets, 1/4 air ratchets and experience. The weekend warrior/ novice mechanic calls this tight to impossble. I would save the money on a H20 pump and wait for the second timing belt to replace that. Its been my experience that the h20 pump will last 200k. Some ppl arbitrarily replace it because that is what their dealer suggests. I do however always replace the hydraulic tensioner/ tbelt/ drive belt and crank seal. As stated earlier the passenger mount off already so replace it with that saved h20 pump money. As far as your clutch goes just wait it out and when it fails replace the front mount then because the subframe will be out of the car already and it will only cost the part price then.
I changed the tb, on my 02 accord, about to do my sisters 06. I'll replace the tb, wp, drive belt, and crank seal as well as plugs. My 02 I changed the cam shaft and front balance. Does the 06 require any other seal change other than the crank?. How many hydraulic tensioners are there?.
Thanks for the help!.
There is an idler bearing as well I would do.
Search for the Aisin Timing Belt "Kit", it has everything you should replace while doing the timing belt. I see no need to do the crankshaft seal, unless you get in there and see oil all over the place. It is not part of the kit.
I bought my kit this past summer with everything I needed for $200.90 shipped.
Then go "buy" the crank shaft pulley from someone like O'Rielly's, to get the crank pulley off, and return it when you are done, they give you your full money back when you return it.
Search for the Aisin Timing Belt "Kit", it has everything you should replace while doing the timing belt. I see no need to do the crankshaft seal, unless you get in there and see oil all over the place. It is not part of the kit.
I bought my kit this past summer with everything I needed for $200.90 shipped.
Then go "buy" the crank shaft pulley from someone like O'Rielly's, to get the crank pulley off, and return it when you are done, they give you your full money back when you return it.
I didn't change any seals. Shortly before I did the timing belt I started hearing a rattling/knocking sound coming from the timing belt area, so I didn't want to take any chances with the moving parts. I changed the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, adjuster pulley, and idler pulley. I figured I would find a leaking tensioner when I took it down, but the tensioner seemed fine. There were black lines around both pulleys however, leading me to believe the belt was slipping on the pulleys somehow. I took the seals off both pulleys, and found what I thought was a lack of grease inside. The rattle noise was gone after the timing belt job, so something in there wasn't working right. I had already changed the plugs, but I did do a coolant replacement at the same time.
I did, and found, the same thing with my bearings that you did BLKFLSH.
The coolant flush is the bonus of doing the water pump at the same time. It's not that bad of a job if you take your time. You can hit a lot of scheduled maintenance in one day.






