If the driver side lock actuator is not working does it mean all the doors' lock doesn't work also? Anyone that has any knowledge please help. My power lock doesn't work and was thinking about replacing the driver side actuator but not sure if that is even the problem. Thanks.
It's a 1994 Civic 4 door.

 

Are you saying that only the driver's power door lock does not work and all others work fine?

If so, run power and ground wires directly from the battery to the actuator to see whether it works. If not, replace the actuator.

 

They all don't work. I was just wondering if the reason they are all not working is because of the driver side actuator is not working. Or would I need to replace them all? What are the chances that all of them stopped working all together?

 

Title edited. Check the 20A dash fuse 6.

 

Ok, I have somewhat of the same problem. My power locks button works. If i push it to lock, only the passenger door locks. The drivers side door remains unlocked. I also cannot push the mechanical lock on the drivers side door to the locked position. But if I get out, and lock the drivers side door with the key, then it works fine and the passenger side locks at the same time. Whats up with this? want to figure it out.

 

checked the fuse, it's fine. probably bad wires somewhere?

 

Check ur fuses

 

Have you checked continuity on the circuit??? I had a problem with my speed sensor once and all it needed was a lil dielectric grease on the plug. Get schematic from haynes manual, find points of contact and pin um out. If they look nasty, clean um and apply dielectric grease and check to make sure the wire has continuity before plugin um back together.

 

It's time to pinpoint the problem. Pull out your dusty multimeter and do these input tests:

 

hey RonJ, I did the test above from 1-5 but didn't do 6 because I have no clue what it is telling me to do. The only wire that didn't get the right results was the blue/white wire. So what do you think it most likely could be from the test's possible problems?

 

What voltage did you read for test #5?

 

1.9

 

CHECK the door jam connection at the door hinge of the driver door. In my previous Civic 4dr, the prong within the rectangular connector rusted out, hence not making electrical connectivity to the door control box. If you want to replace the prongs, you have to go to the junkyard and grab the light blue connectors behind the center audio console of 96-00 Civic. They are the exact same size prongs. Depin the wires, solder it back and Walla....problem solved.

 

hmm.. let me go check this thing you're talking about. hope I can find it because aren't all the connectors retangular?

 

In order to get to that connector, I had to remove the driver front fender. At the time, i removed it to replace the hood latch cable so it was much simpler. The connector part attached to the side of the car was the problem I encountered. The rectangular connector is the only one of its type throughout the car....besides the passenger side...which has less wires.

 

i think i found what you are talking about. its the connector all the wires from the door run to, right? i took a pic of the connectors disconnected. when i disconnected it, it for some reason had pink grease all over it.

 

That's it. If you gently move the exposed pins, they should be firm. If they are loose and rusted... that's your problem. In my case, I replaced 4 of the male pins. The pink material is connectivity electrical grease. It wont kill you or make your hands fall off. LOL

In order to work on the door connector (female pins), I had to take off the door panel, remove the speaker and rolled the window up. There's no way around it.

 

is it easier just to replace the whole connector?

 

No...I wouldnt go to that extent. Finding a used one in good shape may not be simple and buying one from Honda isn't cheap. If you're good at soldering and depinning, its a simple and cheap fix.

 

which prongs in that picture did you replace?

 

I can't recall...but one of them was the power for the control box module. You just have to check to see which ones need replacing. I saw one but ended up replacing four.

 

In post #9, I now remember that the service manual diagram for the input test has some errors.

1) Tests 1, 2, and 6 should be done with the 12P connector unplugged from the control unit.

2) Tests 3-5 are done with the 12P connector plugged into the control unit.

Redo the tests under these conditions.

 

If I'm not mistaken, check voltage on the white/green wire leading into control unit. That was one of the prongs I replaced.

 

it's honda's design for you not to lock your keys in ur car. pull the interior handle and hit the button and it will lock.

 

How to I test the wires if the 12p connector is connected?