whats up guys....im going to be boosting my h22a vtec soon and need some help. my motors built from the ground up, darton sleeves cp forged pistons 9-1 compression skunk 2 cams and so on; now i am ready to turbo. I am looking for about 700-750 whp on about 25-30 psi. also want good power at high rpms so want to go with a decent size turbo.......what size would you all recommend for my specifics...thx

 

One with a compressor wheel and a turbine wheel. Search my friend.

 

i asked for sizes......

 

I'm asking for a basic search. This has been covered a million times and there's probably a million search results that youd be able to find if you weren't so lazy to hit the button.

 

haha alright buddy searched already only thing that was found was for around 300 hp stock internals. look man theres no reason to be a jack *** u couldve easily helped me out but its straight move along now......haha

 

i agree with him.. whats all done to ur block for 500hp?

 

15pds? You mean 15psi? Depending on headwork and if those cams are even better than stock it could be close depending on which turbo you use. just run as much psi as it takes to get to the 500 mark, no reason to be scared..., and my vote is a 6262 as its what I have on my h22.

And if you search there are hundreds of threads and even even ones just for h22 turbo setups.

 

Sounds like a hefty setup. I agree with a precision 6262 for the street. Will get you 500hp without breakin a sweat. If you want a little more top end or end up shooting for more around 600hp ish then I would run a 6766. Spool will be a bit slower though

 

i wouldn't recommend a Precision turbo. but, being that the 6262 will surpass 600hp as well. why would he even get the 67mm? 6266 would be better in that case.

 

if u likE GARRETT gt3076r or maybe the gt35, depends on what kind of characteristics u want your car to have, is it a DD, track car, drag car, autocross, weekend warrior or whatever.

 

i appreciate the responds guys thats all i needed i was already looking at the precision ceramic ball bearings and a couple turbonetics......but my complete setup is darton mid sleeves cp forgged pistons 9-1 compression, eagle rods, acl race bearings, cosmetic headgasket, arp headsetuds, im running the skunk 2 pro stage 3 cams but may be changins them out to the kelford stage 2 turbo cams, skunk 2 pro dual valvespring and retainer set, skunk 2 pro series valves, supertech valve guides, skunk 2 pro series intake manifold, blox throttle body, and supertech valve seals, as for fuel im running aem high volume fuel rail, walboro 255 and dynamics 1000cc injectors.......and once again appreciate all the help definately decided precision......and i might go 20-25 psi dyno but 15 daily.....and i am building this car for a little bit of everything if you no what i mean....

 

ya i have been searching and it seems everyone i look at is not built and they r happy to hit the 300 mark....so thats y i asked you guys....but thx for the help bud

 

also for any who might have tested.....ive been giving it some thought idk what i want to do cam wise cause i heard stock cams r fine for turbo but i would really like to do turbo cams to be safe in case i wanna shoot for 6 650 later on down the road.....anybody have any thoughts on this and which turbo cam would b my best bet or best outcome

 

precision 6262 or gt35r

 

I did it for you, just read this thread it should help you out.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...833278&page=35

I made 604 on stock cams, head, intake manifold etc but I'm sure there are gains to be had with a/m cams. Good luck, made sure to post up pics and dyno results when done.

If you haven't assembled the motor yet you should go with a OEM head gasket.

 

thanks alot bud i appreicate you taking time......and i have read that turbo cams dont make as much as stock and any mechanic would question that statement is why i asked. i mean yes the extra hp is prolly not worth 600 dollars for cams but to say that stock cams made more hp is prolly false any ways thanks alot gonna go check out that link....and will be posting alot of pics from start to finish

 

I have a 67mm T04ZR. STOCK JDM cams, very minor porting (No hogging, just a cleanup)


759/578

Im at 89mm with about 9.8:1 compression. Motor spools the **** out of the turbo. One of the newer billet 6766s would be pure animal on my car.


Ditch the Pro 2s. WAY too big, and why do you have a block guard... Ditch that POS too.

ONLY cams id ever consider (and I could have had them CHEAP and didnt) would be S2 P1s. Would my motor make more power? Yes, but the bullshit to deal with them and whatnot just isnt worth it. 750 is PLENTY enough




Also:
3076 is too small. Make sure to go with a T4 hotside as well. Friend has a built H22@ 87.5mm 6262 and the t3 hotside is killing it up top. He came from a 30 R, 30R spools retardedly fast and with the TQ from the H is stupid. It sucked. Hes making 610 at 27 PSI on the 6262. Turbo wants alot more boost to make the power and the T3 is killing it


IF your going for 650-700 go the 6262. Before the Garret I have now I had a Precision PT6176 with T4 hotside. Made 620 @25 PSI on OEM JDM H22 dizzy.... and this was the old style non billet ****. I know the earlier billet turbos had issue but seems they've got it worked out. Everyone I DO know that had issues precision took VERY good care of them. For your goals (Im assuming 600 by your "PSI level goals".

ONLY turbo Id trade mine out for would be a 6766 with a divided T4 housing.


Manifold and overall efficiency have MUCH to do with it though.... My setup is VERY efficient, on paper its pushing the outer limit of the turbo, even exceeding it. Honestly my mortor wants a bigger snail, but it makes PLENTY as it is and that wont happen.

As for the OEM gasket IF AT 87.5 mm or 87.5... I agree.... BUT IF ANY LARGER... USE THE COMETIC, and make sure your machine shop has the applicable rA surface on the head and the block. I ran 2 GE 89mm gaskets, and although the start with OEM, when boring mine the bores were "off" it sealed like **** and I went to the Cometic. No issues whatsoever. 3 step the headstuds using the newer ARP lube. I went 30-60-87. No issues at all.


IF running ANY aftermarket cams... ANY, make sure to degree them in ands check P2V and V2V clearances. People have had issues not doing so even on some of the "drop in" S2P1 sets. I know 1 person personally.

 

thanks for the post and i think i am changing up my expectations for this build i am going to either do the skunk2 p1s or just my stock jdm cams if i can find them.....and i think i am going to go a little bit bigger and shoot for 700 to 750 on 25 to 30 psi on the dyno and im going to do a mild port....as for manifolds i am either going with blue ridge top mount or there twin scroll with there 3inch down pipe and dump pipe with a tial waste gate not sure what size yet.......and i am already running 3 inch exhaust straight back no cat so i shouldnt have any problems there as for fuel my 1000cc might do we will see......what fuel pump did u run for a street setup....and since i am going for more boost i am going to be keeping my eagle rods but using 3/8 arp rod bolts

 

The JDM cams are BARELY bigger than the USDMs, not a HUGE deal (The Type S are a bit more aggressive but I'm not running those... Just the vanilla JDM crate motor cams).

I have the Bosch based 1150 FICs. Aeremotive regulator and run 60 pound base pressure. A Walbro 255HP in the tank and an 044 under my feet with a trick flow filter. Both pumps have there own upgraded wiring and individual dedicated relays and fuses going to them. They are also grounded at the battery.

For feed I run a banjo to -6 adapter made by Russell at the tank with the stock banjo bolt drilled out both lengthwise and crossways so big I almost thjought it woiuld break when torquing it LOL... I used copper crush washers to index it so that the hole in the bolt pointed right down the fuel line if that makes sense. Also every staright -6 fitting (inclkudinng the banjo adapter) was drilled out carefully as big as I could to the point to where they are actually about -7 internaly. Stock OEM return.

My car is a true street car so I didnt want to sump the tank AT ALL. (and im lazy)

Car made the 759/578 on this setup at 35 PSI on the T04ZR. about 1 ms injector pulse left at peak TQ, and a tad more than that up top (dyno couldnt hold load and compressor was maxxed so boost fell to 31-32 up top, 1.2 ms iirc). I actually had enough fuel for a bit more power


BUY A TURBO WITH A T4 Hotside. It DOES make a difference. The nice thing about the H is its not a 1.8 L and WILL spool a bigger turbo. My manifold is a divided and paired =length manifold, and Im running a .81 T4 hotside. It makes the 578 TQ at about 6K. The cars midrange/topend is brutal.

I see you mention Blue ridge. Ask them for Joseph Davis' info. Hes familliar with my setup and has been for a ride in my car. No one ever believes me when I tell them what I have for a fuel setup, but its true LOL....

I ran the 5/16 ARPS to 650 WHP for 3 years. Changed them out for the 3/8 on this latest build. I have COMPLETE faith in them at the power im at


LMK if I can help you out or if you have any more ?s :O)

 

haha your fuel setup sounds insane i wouldnt expect the 255...... but is there any one fuel pump you would recommend for around the same power u made.......and i will either run 1000cc but a little iffy i might go bigger like rc i think make 1200.....and if u had to buy any precision turbo for my setup with the blue ridge mani what would it b.......what tranny gear set did u end up going with cause i was looking into saenz.......and as of right now i was thinking the blue ridge 3 inch downpipe to my apexi 3 inch but may have some restriction there so if so i will do a custom front exit.......i never boosted anything near this power so im kinda questionable about what to expect but i dont wanna go with something and max it out and have to spend more money haha......but i really appreciate your help its cool to have people like yourself that r willing to give others advice

 

Stay with the Bosch based. RCs nor Precision are the way to go. I had Precision 1000s before (same base and fuel system), made 650 on the same fuel setup but the idled like crap and part throttle sucked. They were maxxed at that power level. The car idles SOOO much better with the bosch cores its not even funny... part throttle too... from having to be in the high 12s to avoid "lean pop" to the high 14s with no pop. I run a 4" DP and very short 4" aluminum exhaust that ends right before the bend to go towards the side of the car. Magnaflow 4" "race" muffler under the shifterbox.


The fuel setup works because with the 044 making pressure the 255 flows very well as its simply priming the 044, and doesnt have significant pressure to drive

What is your end power goal? Go 6265 if 7 or so. T4... NO T3. It makes a big difference. .68 or bigger (I have .81 asnd wish it was larger...)

I had a Saenz set. Were trying to get an albins set to happen... More people are starting to show interest... Well see what happens. i had good luck with the Saenz once I figured some **** out and got the updated 3 and 4. I had a prototype that was one of their first that they had made changes too. Once I did no problems, but remember, 5th gear is 1:"1 its short. I lked it. 4:1 final and 235/60 15s was awesome, but not a 3200 RPM 75 MPH freeway cruiser for sure. IF the Albins thing faslls throiugh I will be buying another saewnz set. SOON.

 

howd u order ur saenz kit i went on there website and theres no where to order?