i have a b18c1 block its completely stock and so is the b18 head , thinking about keep it stock, getting an lsd tranny, doing a manual swap(auto to 5 speed) tanabe medalion touring exhaust, where i need advice, is i kind of want to go the itb route.. how can this happen and what other parts are needed, is a velocity stack any good? opinions and advice are welcome. how much hp can i try to make out of this car keep alot of stock components? cluth or flywheel advice?

 

So wait, what are you "building"? All of your projected "goals" are far from an actual build.

Just being honest here: I am pretty are ITB's are out of the question for you. Not only that but it is a complete waste of time and money on a stock engine. It sounds like you have K-series dreams on a D-series DPFI->MPFI budget...

A velocity stack is almost a must with ITBs and they have been proven in your standard N/A setups as well. How much horsepower? Maybe ~5hp (no not whp) over stock.

Clutch and Flywheel: Stock clutch maybe a lightened flywheel (no lighter than 11-12lbs) if you want your car to "feel faster/more responsive than it is".

From the sound of your post - Just leave it completely stock and enjoy it.

 

Just make the car more reliable, like arp rod bolts,headstuds, new bearings and rings and all that jazz.. only mod i would do to a stock gsr is maybe drop in some ctr cams in along with cam gears if they are needed.

 

Rod bolts and head studs are absolutely unneeded in a stock engine. If the compression and oil pressure is good - why touch anything? I assume you mean adjustable cam gears - on a stock engine they are absolutey a waste of money.

An ITR/CTR cam swap is the only thing I would agree with. The only problem is you will need intake valve springs at minimum. You can take the stock GSR intake springs and run them on the exhaust side and purchase aftermarket/or ITR/CTR ones for the intake side. With the prices of cheaper aftermarket ones you could just replace all 16 and be done with it.

 

Factory rod bolts have given me issues a few times in stretching and after torqueing and the headstuds from ARP are not much more expensive than buying bolts from Honda. Maybe $30 more.

If you plan to reuse that hardware then goodluck wrenching like you work on DSM's..

I wouldn't go through all that trouble just to have another engine failure personally.

 

While I don't exactly recommend reusing head bolts, you can a time or two. I can assure you the only way you are breaking rod bolts is due to over factory specs engine abuse or by improper tightening. You must not work on Hondas very much to come up with those stories. I have no clue where the "DSM" comment came from. I haven't touched one since the first one came off the assembly line, and don't ever plan to.

All I am getting at you are just stirring the hornets nest; this guy has no clue what is going on and you are telling him to tear into the engine "Fast & Furious" style. I understand you don't post much in here, but hang around long enough and you will see some things.

PS - No, 2007 isn't my actual join date - 1999/2000 is. Not that that really means anything, but I have seen the paces.

 

The last two engines Ive put together were freshened up 200k mi. D series engines. Whenever I put together a Bseries motor that I know is gonna turn to redline often, I try to replace the rod bolts anyway. I get where you're going with telling the guy not to mess with the engine because some can do more harm than good.

Im bored with carolinahondas.com and all the kids that still live at home that build these junkass "racecars" that wind up looking like something out of a lowrider magazine. so ive been frequenting this site more than I usually do and I like being able to read when someone types english and some of the builds on here are pretty great. Thanks for a heads up anyway..