I'm new to Hondas so please be patient. I apoloize ahead of time for any stupid questions. I'm used to working on Audi's and VW's. [Flame suit is on]

Through a series of trades, I acquired a 1993 Honda Accord with a H22 engine. At one point, you can tell this was somebody's baby. Now in my hands she looks used but still has potential. Car was traded to me not running, in unknown condition.

Previous owner said car would not start and installed a pump and gas tank from junk yard did not help. So I ordered a new Bosche pump thinking jukyard pump is not good.

I dropped tank and gas in the tank was darker than Pepsi cola. I figured the junk yard gas was bad so I emptied bad gas from the tank. I bench tested the junk yard pump and it worked fine. I installed the new Bosch pmp anyway. Still no start.

Reading posts from this forum, I learned the pump should come on when the key is turned to the on position. I thought cool, just like a VW. The pump was not working. The fuel rail was bone dry.

A little more research revealed a 'main fuse relay' under the dash. I ordered a new Honda main fuse relay from e-Bay. Now the pump is working like it should. Fuel is making it to the fuel rail. Thank you Honda Tech Forum.

Now, it is time to go under the hood. While waiting for he new fuel pump to arrive, I reinstalled the main engine harness. I do not understand why Honda allows several plugs to fit one another. This would not happen on an Audi. Each plug is slightly different so there is no issue of ever plugging the harness into the wrong sensor or connection. So i used my best judgement as I do not have a swap instructions for the H22.

Car has fuel, spark and is cranking hard/fast. Still no start. Sounds like it wans to catch with little faint coughs, but no go.

I found one last issue, the crank position sensor. The engine in the 93 accord is a H22A4, same as the one I pulled recently from a 1997 Prelude except the spare bad engine on the floor was from an automatic. The egnine on the floor has a 4 wire plug that goes up behind the timing belt cover. I do not see this on the H22 in the accord.

More research on Honda Tech revealed JDM engines have the crank sensor as part of the distributor. I do not know how to ID a JDM engine but I think mine is a regular US spec engine with H22A4 stamped on it. The head has P13 stamped on it like the bad spare engine i have on the floor.

So my question is, does the H22A4 engine in the 93 Accord need a crank sensor like the H22A4 pulled from the 1997 Prelude?

I doubt I have a JDM engine so is it possible the person who originally did the swap, installed a fancy distributor like the JDM engine ha so the crank sensor near the oil pan is not needed? Is there anything I can look at on the distrubitor to tell if it was wired for the crank position sensor?

Any help is appreciated.

 

The H22A4 is a OBD2 USDM engine. And OBD2 Honda engines have the CKP sensor on the oil pump housing while the OBD1 has them inside the distributor. So the H22A4 you have should have a CKP on the oil pump housing; otherwise, the last guy who worked on it must've wired it straight to the distributor like an OBD1. Get what I mean?

Yes, if they ran a JDM Internal coil distributor then the external CKP on the oil pump housing is not needed, cause the wires they extended goes to the distributor IMO. About finding out, I'm not sure as I'm always internal coil.

Hope all this helps.

 

Thanks for replying to my post.

I understand what you are saying. Is there a way I can tell if I have an internal coil distributor?

I do not know the Honda lingo so I can only discribe what I see. There is a black box which looks like a coil or ignitor that is connected to the distributor. You know, you have 4 spark plug wires and a 5th plug wire going to the distributor cap. The 5th plug wire goes from the distributor to the black box that is 2" x 4". If this is the external coil, then I do not need a crank position sensor near the crank? I just have to make sure the engine harness plug for the crank position sensor is plugged into this external set up, which it is not.

 

You have an external coil, that's what the 5th plug wire is going to.

 

If you have that 5th plug going to the coil then you have an external coil distributor like 94EG8 said. Internal coil will be inside the distributor; therfore, you'll only have four plug wires.

I like internal distributor, because it looks cleaner.

 

"I have a Honda Accord 98. I got a diagnostic done and it came back as the Crank sensor. The mechanics want $150 for the sensor and $65 for labor. Can I buy the part and replace it myself? And where is the crank sensor and how do I replace it?

 

Make a new thread of your problem. I'll reply from there.

 

Thanks for the input. Damn if I know what happened to the CPS. The timing belt cover is loose but I can not stick my hand behind the cover far enoough to see if the old CPS is still there with a broken wire or something.

The H22 in the accord bay is tight near the crank pulley. Looks like I will have to lower the engine and use Bertha (725TQ air gun) to get the crank pulley off.

I'll update this post later this week and let everyone know if the car started or not.

 

Is everything else OBD1? What ECU are you running? Are you getting proper fuel and spark?

The main issue with the A4 is the injectors and distributor (with CPS). The car should either be converted to OBD1 H22 injectors or have the resistor box and all the wiring bypassed if you keep the OBD2 injectors.

The distributor on the A4 (like the 93 Accord) is external coil. Your best bet is to make sure you have the proper OBD1 distributor (you can leave it external OR convert to internal, both work fine) and just leave the CPS unplugged. There is no need to go in and mess with the crank bolt to check anything - that is for OBD2 purposes only.

Assuming you're running a OBD1 ECU (hopefully a P13 or a chipped/tuned something else) then it should be run like a OBD1 H22A/H22A1.