Lets admit it we drive HI Milage motors what type should we use last night I was recommend Synthetic for my 190,000 mile motor? what do you HT think? Also what have u guys used? (filters and motor Flushes)

 

Mobil 1. And OEM filter. Never used anything else. Unless you burn a lot of oil then what ever.

 

I'm running mobile 1 and oem filter too but with 190xxx miles regular maybe be better

If you choose M1 wal mart sells 5 quart jugs for 25 bux

 

Today's synthetic is a LOT different than early generations of synthetic.
Pointing this out, because if you are searching the internet or talking to some old grandpa regarding synthetic, then likely you will find old info stating not to go back and forth between the two.

Brand name quality synthetic is pretty much interchangeable with natural oil.
It's not 100% the same, but it's really close. Worth giving a shot if you are set on using synthetic.
check your oil level a few times and if you aren't loosing any of the synthetic then you are fine to use it.

I use Mobil 1 as well - 11X,XXX miles on current engine.

 

What Weight of oil are you guys using 10/40W? and does weather really play a roll as for what type of weight? Mobil1 sounds good?

 

I wouldn't use synthetic with ur high milage motor if it never had it b4,
No reason to switch now just more $

 

Weather really does play into it.
Use the engine manufacturer recommendations for which oil to use and at what temp.
I live in the warm climate of So. Cal. and use 10/30 all year round just like the engine maintenance specs call out.

The closer you get to freezing temps, then the more difficult it becomes for the oil pump to push high viscosity oil through the motor *** especially during cold startup***!
At around 30degrees most manufacturers recommend changing to 5/30 or 0/30 oil.
You will have to look in the maintenance guide for your engine to see specifics.

 

^^^ Eghhh? What's that sonny, could you speak up a little?

This is an age old question that's gets asked over and over. Do what your budget allows. Just remember one thing - just because the bottle may say to change it every 15k miles or something doesn't mean you don't have to check your oil or change the filters multiple times. All that hoopla talk about it lasting that long is extremely misleading. If you have ran standard oil this long there is no point in switching now. Sure the new fangled synthetic oil has some good properties but the build up around seals and wear on the engine is already there. Countless times have I seen people switch over only to have "mysterious" oil leaks develop...

 

X2

 

i use royal purple 5w30 and an oem filter year round ...no leaks or problems after 2 years so i trust it ...mileage is roughly 100,000 on current motor

 

Synthetic oil doesn't break down (at a molecular level) like conventional oil - it is the additives in synthetic that break down. All oils pretty much have the same viscosity at operating temperature. So unless you are racing trucks accross the Sahara Desert, you should always use 5w/30 (or 0w/30 if you can find it) because it is more viscous at colder temperatures - startup, when your engine receives the most wear.
If you buy a new car or have your engine rebuilt, then you should definitely use a good synthetic cause it will cost you less money in the long run, on oil (changing it less), and your engine will last longer. There's a reason that valvoline's engine guarantee is 300k for synthetic and 150k for conventional (and yes, i know that it is just a way to suck you in to using their oil only - I dont use valvoline).

 

I've switched from conventional to synthetic and back on multiple cars with no problems. Viscosity should be the same regardless of the type. As mentioned, the weather is more of a factor. You should use what is recommended for your engine, and go from there. My B16 says 10w30, but in the hot Georgia summers I run 10w40. For almost 20 years I've used Fram filters, though people will tell you not to. Just use reputable brand names and don't buy generic.
That said, I'm a big fan of castrol gtx.

 

I have had some good luck with Castrol GTX with a purolator filter. Not the cheapest but not the most expensive.

 

Check out this thread, on the second page I explain how Mobil 1 is no longer fully senthetic, and hasn't been for about 5 years. Test results and proof posted as well.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...3017092&page=2

 

Best oils out now, Amsoil, German Syntec/Castrol GTX, then I would use Pennzoil/Mobil1/Valvoline

 

Factory Filter, Mobile1 10w40 high mileage, lucas oil stabilizer. Best setup out there for higher mileage cars.

 

I've used castrol gtx/fram filter combo in every car i have owned with no problems, just use the right weight oil for your location like zrickety said.

 

I use royal purple 10w30 all year round and oem filters on my 1st gen rex... which is sitting at about 150k. no leaks no problems ever.

 

Royal Purple 10W30 with Fram XG3593A year round here in sunny FL.

 

10w30 for high mileage.

 

I have a 100xxx on my 90 crx b16 would kinda of oil and what weight would you recommend

 

Castrol GTX 10w30 worked great for me. Mobil 1 synthetic if you want to spend a little more.

 

I'm using royal purple 10w30 in my b16a

 

I use Penzoil and Purolator filters most of the time. 10w-30. I switched to----Bram? No. That's not right. I can't even remember. Something high end because of the turbo. But you really don't need that. Mobile 1 10w-30 or 5w-30 if you live further north. Purolator filters are tried and true, plus cheap, for me personally.

 

I recently switched my crx and wagon over to royal purple HPS 10-30 and WIX filters.

(The standard royal purple is without some of the good additives... intended for newer vehicles still on warranty or something.)