Ok so here it is... my first build. There are a million other build threads out there and i am sure many are more exciting than mine. However, there doesnt seem to be many people rocking itb's. I hear a lot of bad things about the quality OBX, but i decided i am going to give them a shot myself. I am sure I am going to make mistakes along the way, but sometimes that is how you have to learn. I am not new to mechanics, but i have never tackled an entire build before. I have a list of things that i have not yet decided on for the build. Please feel free to give me input on what i should go with. The motor is going to be used for autoX and on nice days when i feel like cruising around. So here it goes....

My setup:

- B18a1 block
- oem ls crank
- oem ls rods
- p30 pistons
- Fidanza 7lb flywheel
- arp main studs
- arp rod bolts
(bottom end has been balanced)
- arp head studs
- gsr head
- GE lsvtec kit
- GE adjustable cam gears
- OBX ITB's
- b16 lsd trans
- cams ???????? (i may possibly use my stock gsr cams)
- clutch ????????
- injectors ????????
- what should i tune it on ??????

Here she is i bought it for like $150 or so a few years back and the project never really got off the ground. 190k


So i tore her down to the bare block; taking a lot of reference pictures for later on in case i needed to know the placement of anything later on. For anybody that is building a motor for their first time i highly recommend it. These pictures make it really easy and fast when you need to know where/how something goes. My second tip is to buy a box of ziploc bags and as you take the motor apart put the bolts to each individual part of the motor in their own bag. Now you label the bags as if you died and someone else would have to put this motor back together (i.e. take the bolts from the alternator and put them in a bag and label the bag "alternator mounting bolts". If you keep all these bags in a box you can come back to it 3 years later like me and still have all your hardware and know exactly where everything goes.


next thing i did was take the block to a shop i know and hot tank it. Unfortunately it didn't get it all the way clean so i had to bust out the old tooth brush and wax and grease remover.


next thing i did was grind out the ugly/sharp casting marks. if i remember correctly i took them down to 320 grit.


next i took a scuff pad and scuffed the block down so the paint would stick good.



Now i masked off every surface that i didn't want paint getting on.


and here is the final product after i shot it with engine enamel.


and thats as much as i am getting posted tonight

 

Your off to a good start.Keep up the good work.

 

nice stuff... subscribed

 

- cams ???????? (i may possibly use my stock gsr cams)
- clutch ????????
- injectors ????????
- what should i tune it on ??????

answeres:
-Skunk2
-Exedy stage 2 or ACT
-As for size that is up to you, good brand would be RC and Precision.. if it helps, im using 390cc dsm injectors for my lsvtec!
-Tuning is soulely up to you on what u want (chrome, hondata, neptune and etc..) hondata s200 or s300 would be a good choice if your looking for a good tune!

i would look into getting some better valvetrain (dual valve springs, valves, retainers, seats and valve seals)..

 

cams? depends on budget. if ur on a tight one. why not atleast go for some itr/ctr's or blox cams. or if you wanna be the big spender you can go with the skunks
clutch? i agree with above
injectors? tuners these days are saying the RDX injectors are the best. RC and precision are an old technology. youll get more power with RDX turbo injectors
tuning? like he said above, but id say ask your tuner what he prefers and go with that. i personally dont like chrome and everyone knows hondata is a great option.

 

i would use stock main bolts if you're not getting the mains align honed.

 

thank you guys

 

Some skunk2 tuner cams may be a good option. I need to find a set that is going to be good for autoX. As for tuning i wasn't sure if there is going to be one better than the other because of the itb set up

I thought about itr cams but i wasn't sure if i had to upgrade the springs and retainer with them or not. If so i might as well go aftermarket. If not then i probably will go with them because they are a proven cam. I will be looking into those RDX injectors. Im not sure what size of injectors i am going to need. I wonder what is the minimum amount of flow i am going to need with these itbs

 

Is that a must? i never read that before. i have read it a thousand times about the rod bolts. i already have them installed at this point. i just haven't posted that far into my build yet. the clearances were a little tight but not enough to concern me

 

if you are looking for autocross camshafts, toda vtec killers, comp camshafts and jun are amazing camsahfts for autoX... if you used itr cams you would have to get ahold of some itr valvetrain.. because if you upgrade your valvetrain to lets say skunk2 (dual tuner valve springs, titanium retainers and etc..) u will need a camshaft that can put enough pressure onto those upgraded items in order to work properly! and if you used the itr cam with that upgraded valvetrain you would get poor results..

i would get some 550cc RDX injectors, give you room to play with your tune!

 

vtec killers are awful for auto-x. and what are you talking about the upgraded valvetrain? it is fine to use with ITR cams.

 

Good explanation on it needing a cam with more pressure (if you upgraded springs/retainers). i have never heard it put like that before. I'm not sure on the vtec killers tho. I just really haven't understood what is so great about them.... if you can enlighten me that would be great

 

can anybody else verify that i don't have to upgrade the valvetrain for itr? that would be great if i didn't

 

it is just a good idea to use itr valvetrain with itr cams!

and yes here is the enlightenment:
Design:
The primary and secondary lobes are designed to be the same size. Overall construction of the cam has been heavily revised. With areas of stress,rigidity and weight all greatly benefiting. Normal cams are created from solid blanks, but the VTEC KILLER CAM is produced from a hollow blank, which not only reduces weight but also improves valve timing accuracy through a reduction in flexing. The cam is designed to bed in quickly and have a low wear rate.

Characteristics:
The mid rocker cam is removed & both pins are changed, reducing the valve train mass for better response. Disabling the VTEC system removes fluctuations in the oil pressure system, securing a reliable oil feed to all the main moving components. Lost motion valve should be removed. For max performance, should be used in conjunction with TODA Sports Injection kit.

 

Any progress?

 

You DO NOT need upgraded valvetrain to run itr/CTR cams. Skunk2 tuner1s are a good option as well because they don't require upgraded valvetrain, BUT for autoX, you'll want to find a set of cams that will have more low-mid range power.

 

GSR cams have the best mid range of all stock cams.
As for injectors stock is fine. I am running stock B18B1 injectors on my LS Vtec and they are no where near maxed out.

 

looks clean so far. keep it up.

 

cant wait to see where this goes.

 

RDX injectors are 410cc stock, idk if the guy above was talking about modded ones are 550 or if he got the numbers mixed up. Either way keep it up

 

For tuning you will need a program that supports alpha-n based mapping which uses throttle position vs. rpm as opposed to the speed density map that are commonly used by most programs, and cars. I run a hondata s300 for this purpose. I am not sure what other programs support alpha-n based tuning. This rules out s200 as it does not support alpha-n mapping.

 

Most of the Honda tuning software can be use to tune alpha-N these days. Even Crome Pro has the option to do so.

Neptune Demon, eCtune Demon and Crome Pro w/Ostrich can be used to tune ITB's.


Nice build christmastree

In for some more pics and numbers

 

If the head is an OBD0 B16 it would be a great idea to at least have OEM ITR springs or equivalent. I mean, theres a reason Honda decided to put dual springs in the CTR and ITR engines, isn't there?

 

I am still running the old S100. Car was tuned on S300 then the map was flashed into my S100 chip.

 

So you just loaded the S300 Cal file onto the S100 chip and everything works?

I don't use Hondata, however I'm having a hard time figuring out how an S100 EMS would run off an S300 .skl calibration file. I know that the S100 & S200 use the same Romeditor 4 .bin/.re4 ROM files. I didn't think that the Smanager .skl calibration files would work loaded onto S100 chip??????