I have a 94 gsr and I was wondering whats a good and reliable set up for Disk Breaks and Break Pads.

 

for street use, autozone blank rotors, ceramic pads, DOT3-4 fluid

 

what about street/auto x..cuz i was gonna get a set of drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads off of there

 

drilled and slotted are overrated, and eat through pads like crazy for every day use, centric makes high carbon and various types of alloy blank rotors that you can get that withstand heat and abuse 100x better then any standard rotor you can buy, combined with a good low heat build up pad, stainless steel brake lines, and solid Dot3-4 fluid, like ATE superblue, you will have some wicked nasty stopping power. Our cars are very light and 4 wheel disc in its factory form is more then enough.

 

still blank rotors with a more aggresive pad. hawk hp+ or the like.

drilled/slotted rotors are for looks

 

ur probably gonna call bullshit, but at STM in new york, they dyno tested a car by simply changing from solid rotors to drilled and slotted, and its FREED up 4 more wheel hp...and cool i was already planning on stoptech ss lines..my cars gonna be getting brakes in about 2 weeks as well as a clutch..thanks for the info, hope it helps the OP

 

if it did free up hp, it would be strictly from the lighter weight of the rotors that they were using lol not really something id be terribly concerned about to be honest.

 

yea, less rotating mass frees up hp alot of people are concerned about trying to make more hp but theres small dumb things out there that just free up hp that you already have that is just being held back. i kind of wanted to drilled and slotted because with my rota subzero rims you can see everything in there, so i might get drilled and slotted rotors, with upgraded pads and ss line and be able to stop on a freaking **** hair..lol

 

lol im telling you they suck for a DD

 

i have them on my evo which was a dd till i got this, and for some reason i also have them on my chrysler 300, never seemed to have any problems as i do mostly highway driving, havent noticed decreased brake life either, my chrysler made it to 98k a month ago and its had those brakes on since 14k and i havent touched them and thats a heavy *** car

 

well i suppose it depends on the type of pads you combine them with but my personal experience i found them to be noisy, vibrate exceptionally in the pedal, produce alot of dust, and slice through softer compound pads like lunch meat. just not something im looking for in a car that does 90% of its work on standard roads

 

axxis ultimates are probably my fav street pad. similar to a hawk hp+ without the squeal

 

i use the posi-quiet ceramic on both of my other cars, dont really dust, no squeal, and is probably similar to the hawk im guessing, ive never used them, but ill try them on my db1 and see how i like them if i have the car long enough

 

if you want even better braking power than mentioned above, do this: https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/how-11-inch-brakes-3rd-gen-734560/

 

thnxz man....ill do a little more resarch about it...

 

thnxz....just looking for some suggestions...

 

i've actually heard that exact opposite of drilled and slotted....but i do like the sounds of maybe just factory should do fine...i was hoping for something that bites the break better...

 

racebum: thnxz for the suggestions man....

 

I'm still new to HT so im still trying to get used to it....the link was rather helpful too...

 

Drilled/slotted? Why?

:facepalm:

Why would slotted rotors and aggressive pads make you stop "on a **** hair"? Tires do more of the stopping work than brakes do....especially from lower than triple digit speeds. Brakes become a bigger factor in stopping distances as speed increases and they have a tendency to fade. From street speeds, pretty much any decent brake pad will stop the car fade free.

Slotted/drilled rotors actually INCREASE stopping distances given th same condition and pad choice. The reason being that when the pad goes over a slot or drill hole, they're not grabbing onto anything. A pad can't use air to stop the car. Blank rotors have more rotor surface.

Drilled/slotted rotors are done on cars usually either with a very aggressive pad and/or a very large rotor surface. Your street civic has neither.

For looks, if you wanna use drilled/slotted rotors.....go for it, I guess. I think they look kinda dumb, but that's all opinion based. For FUNCTION, however, a blank rotor and a nice pad will actually work much better.

These are my setups for the cars that I track:
S2000: Advance Auto blanks. When they crack (oh...they'll crack), I get new ones. i don't cry. I just go to the store and exhange them under warranty...or just outright buy them for $35. Carbotech XP10F and XP8R for track usage. The rotors are dedicated to those pads for track usage. Race pads don't work well on un-bedded rotors. I then use a different set of Autozone blanks for the street along with OEM AP1 ceramic pads. I use the street setup for autocross also. Autocross doesn't require much out of my brakes and I'm too lazy to switch the setup for just one autocross day. This car's not my daily driver.

ITR: Autozone blank rotors and hawk HP+ front and HPS rear. Track use, everyday use, autocross use. The only disadvantage of this setup is the noise and dust. But...that car's not my daily driver.

For a DD/autocrosser, I would just use something like Hawk HPS with blank rotors. They still dust a lot...but they're cheap and they work. I was going to do that upgrade to the brakes on my GF's GSR...mostly because I wanted to drive it like a hooligan when she wasn't looking. But I ended up doing a 5 lug on it...when she wasnt' looking. Since S2000s and ITRs use the same pads, I have random pads laying around and I haven't decided which to use on the "GFR" yet. Probably end up with some Autozone ceramics that I'm pretty sure are laying around and are brand new.

For my DD that I don't ever plan on autocrossing, I just use advance auto blank rotors and OEM replacement pads. I might switch to ceramic in the spring time when I'm running aluminum wheels that I want to keep clean (dust free).

Cliffs notes:
-Drilled/slotted rotors are generally a bad idea. If you think they look good, you're a bad person.

-Blank rotors with the RIGHT combination of pads is what I'd recommend. The OP didn't specify any special usage...so just use OEM pads or OEM replacement pads for street use.

-Hawk HPS is a good "mild" setup for street and autocross use. I would not recommend HPS for track use.

-For track use, find a pad that works. There are tons of intermediate pads/track pads/race pads that are out there in TONS of different formulations. To find what works for you comes from research and experience. Start at a HP+ up front and HPS out back. Go from there. It works well for my ITR since it has larger brakes than normal Integras (duh). I don't know how well the HP+/HPS combo would work for a quick/fast GSR.

Stay away from EBC yellow for track use. They seem to have crumbled apart on multiple people...including myself.

 

WERD^^^^

 

no

 

I'm telling you they don't. Drilled and slotted rotors on Akebono brake pads. They do not wear any faster than blanks. AND I didn't see any increase in stopping distances. I've seen this pro and con argument for years. It always seems to boil down to preference.

 

They also don't grip less well. The force exerted on the brake is unrelated to the contact area of the brake pad -- any decrease in contact area is counterbalanced by an increase in pressure because the force exerted on the pad by the hydraulic system, and therefore transmitted to the rotor, does not change. If anything drilled and to some extent slotted rotors grip better because they reist heat fade.

 

whatever helps you sleep at night