Anyways, my steup...
6765 journal bearing precision
84mm sleeved ls/vtec with 6an lsvtec line
type r oil pump

I'm interested in installing an oil cooler off of my sandwich plate. Does anyone run an oil cooler with a boosted setup? I'm a little afraid of oil pressure issues since i am running a large frame turbo and an lsvtec line. Does anyone have experience with running all the above? Any oil pressure drops? I was even thinking of installing a restrictor to the oil cooler to be safe. Post it up peeps!!

 

i cant see there being any noticeable drop in presure hondas have great pressure, i know lots of guys with aftermarket oil coolers using stock oem pumps . i would be using one myself but i have an oem cooler

 

its good insurance for all the money you have invested into your car.

 

Yea thats why I was looking into grabbing an oil cooler. Being street driven in florida, it can't hurt to keep the oil temps down in the summer. I was thinking about using a Derale 2 pass inline cooler. What is a popular option for our cars brand-wise?

 

bump for good brands of oil coolers?

 

Earls and Setrab. for most of the Hondas, its best to use the 16Row or 19 Row Coolers. (Part numbers 21610ERL and 21910ERL, specifically for those running -10AN lines). You want to run either a -8AN or a -10AN line. Anything smaller will make the oil pump work too hard and you could destroy it over time. Its best to keep them small 8 x 2 x 5.875, and they should have their own independent source of air when possible.

If your sandwich plate doesn't have an internal Thermostat, (Don't think the GE one has this) then you want to run an external oil thermostat. That way you don't have issues with the car warming up and the oil going straight to the oil cooler when its not at temperature (this is called an oil bypass thermostat). If you don't have this thermostat, you could starve the system of oil.

there's no reason for an oil filter relocation kit. keep it simple and in the stock location.

 

^^Always answer with knowledgeable posts and good advice. No sarcasm or attitude just straight information.Thanks Wish everyone was like this.

I didn't know that if flow was restricted it would actually put more strain on the pump. I'll probably run one once I get my setup 100 percent situated. Have to look into that oil thermostat as well. Good idea I didn't think about that.

 

Just buy a Mocal sandwich adapater. This will have the thermostat built into the unit.

The bigger the line the easier it is for the pump to push oil thru it, 10an seem to be the more popular choice. Smaller lines will prob create more pressure build up in the lines as well as it doesnt have the volume for the oil to flow as easily.

 

Absolutely . I'm running one myself. Make sure you get the fittings that convert from the strange fitting thread that comes from the Mocal 20mm

Mocal Sandwich with internal oil bypass.

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...Sandwich_Plate

Adapter fittings for -10AN lines

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/3282/s

 

If you're in Florida, skip the thermostat. The thermostat is a restriction, somethibg else that can break, and the ambient temps (even in the winter...if you can really call it winter without any snow) won't prevent the oil from getting up to 200 deg F. If you are having problems with not getting the oil up to temp the block part or all of the exchanger with a shroud of sorts.

 

Actually, the oil thermostat SAVES the engine. The initial loss in oil pressure from the larger lines to the front of the cooler will cause a problem at start up. a lot of us lost oil to the cylinder head during races without that thermostat. Its not about ambient outside temperatures on a hot day necessarily; its about making sure that the oil in the engine only goes to the oil cooler when needed. If its colder than about 50 degrees outside, that thermostat will be essential.

Take your chances if you must without it, but that thermostat is what is saving the engine. Not restricting it

 

Agreed. I never had that problem since I have an accusump.

 

I cant see pics at work

Does that sanwhich plate also have the necessary port for ls/vtec conversion or are you simply stacking the plates w/the GE unit? Wish there was simply 1 unit that could be used w/all the necessary items to run the lsvtec conversion & run the oil cooler.

 

No. the mocal is strictly for the oil cooler. What we did before the LS/VTEC sandwich plate conversion kit came out was use the oil sending unit in a -4AN to supply to the head. However, in this case, since you'd be using that for the oil feed to the turbocharger that couldn't be used.

Hmm.. you COULD try one more thing.

use your GE sandwich adapter as you would to feed the head and use the two ports with the the plate to feed to the oil cooler. You would then use a separate external oil thermostat housing that would go in-between the GE sandwich plate and the oil cooler. You'll need to buy extra fittings and cut the lines that would normally go directly there, but the thermostat could rest in between the oil cooler and GE sandwich plate. that way you can still use your LS/VTEC GE sandwich plate, and still have the safety of an oil thermostat.

Remote oil thermostat for -10AN lines
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...il_Thermostats

 

You can add the Mocal unit on top of the GE ls/vtec sandwich (just not before it!!!) basically stack em, you would add the mocal unit and attach it to the GE plate as if it were the block. As long as you have the room to fit the filter. Granted it would look odd, but its what i plan on doing. Plus nobody can see that part of youre motor.

 

I am running an oil cooler on a NA b18C5, relocated the oil filter and have an external oil thermostat, all via -10AN lines/fittings. I used tight weave stainless hoses with fluidine compact oil cooler.

This is worst case as far as number of lines go for an oil cooler...that I have run across, but there is little pressure drop even with an S2000 oil filter.

I doubt that you will have issues on your setup.

I highly recommend using an oil thermostat, as it allows the engine to heat up properly and at the same time allow the oil to heat up more evenly, promoting longer oil and engine life regardless of you local temp.

 

That MOCAL plate is THICK. We've had guys do that, and the result was the vibration of the engine would snap the original 20mm thread completely off, and would have to be welded back onto the block itself. I don't recommend that at all.

Happened at Mid-America from a guy with a B20VTEC who tried to "stack" them. Oil was all over the track, and caught fire... He was able to save the block in time, though.

 

I guess it one of those thing you wouldnt want to risk tho. Im in the same boat, I would like to use the mocal adapter but def am not getting rid of the GE sandwich adapter which feeds the head and turbo feed. I dont know if im comfortable taking the risk, however i do know a few friends with B series blocks using that same approach.

Maybe making a bracket to support the extra weight would help be additional insurance.
That or i may just go without the Oil cooler all together.

What if the mocal plate went on first, then the GE after? the GE plate is very small and circle.

 

It doesn't matter the order. Its the fact that there is weight (even supported) to a fitting that is machined onto aluminum and the vibration the engine makes (even normal driving or accelerated driving ) that causes the problem. That fitting from the factory just wasn't designed to hold that kind of weight. that's why I recommend instead of all of these fab ups of brackets and such, just use the external thermostat and be safer, if using the GE sandwich plate LS/VTEC kit

 

^^ so I never even considered the weight being an issue with this. I do plan to run GE plate plus either a honda cooler/warmer whichever you wanna call it or the one shodan posted up
to use. Whats involved in an external thermostat.. any part #'s you can share like you did before?

 

I have been thinking of this idea for a while. At work i can get really small compact oil coolers that have -3 or -4 an inlet and out let holes. Since i have a turbo integra. Run the feed line to the oil cooler first then back to the turbo with cool oil and then it would drain back to the oil pan.
How well would this work?

 

I just dont understand how on a GE ls/vtec sandwich plate for a feed and return on the oil cooler. I have two ports one is a 3AN fitting going directly to Turbo (cant touch that one i would like it to have a independant source) The other one Feeds my Head (again not going to tee into something important like that) That leave me with nothing left...

 

You can't. you'd have to get another company completely to have the same ports as what you're doing with the LS/VTEC PLUS additional ports for feed and return.

Like I said, in your case, you'd use something different than the GE version. But stacking is not an option.

 

Its not that hard to drill and tap the sandwich plate for extra ports. I haven't yet, but I did enlargen the hole for the lsvtec fitting on the sandwich plate. The blox sandwich plate comes with 3 1/8npt ports. One is for the turbo feed, one for oil pressure sensor, and one for lsvtec. I didnt like how the 1/8 port was smaller than my lsvtec line so i drilled it larger and tapped it for 1/4 npt fitting. That way there is no restriction. While doing this I noticed how easy it would be to add more fittings if needed. Just drill and tap.

As far as oil cooler setup, you have the feed and return both going to the oil sandwich plate? Wouldn't the pressure be equal on both sides and lead to no circulation? I figured one line would come from the sandwich plate as a feed and then the return would lead to the oil pan?

 

Any thoughts on this idea?