Crazy idea popped into my head a minute ago:

If I was to go with the street legal in california edelbrock kit, and pick up say some forged pistons with the stock CR, along with eagle rods, do you guys think that with a second map programmed into the edelbrock piggyback system and more boost I could squeeze 300hp out of the single cam?

Stock cam mind you.
My crazy idea is that I could pass the bar and all that fun stuff with the stock (for the turbo system) map and then when its fun time I could switch back to the other?

 

I got a question you obviously haven't thought of...is the turbo even capable of 300hp? What about the injectors? Fuel pump?

 

That is a question I am going to have to pose to edelbrock.
I am honestly stumped how I can get power outta this damn thing.

K swaps are impossible to pass bar with unless I swap gas tanks, finding a 2000+ B series is hard to find as Charlie Sheens sanity.

 

200 horsepower on a Civic is pretty zippy. And from what I understand B-series in Cali grow on trees. But if it's a B16 don't even waste your time thinking about it.

 

http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/07...s/viewall.html
It seems the turbo may be but the kit doesn't.

 

Have the ability to push that much power?
I would like to make a street time attack car.

Street in both class and in legal terms/driving terms.
And they don't grow quite on trees.

 

The turbo on it's own has the capability but the kit as a whole does not support it. Probably because of the fuel system. The Victor X kit, according to that article, uses extra injectors. You might want to just contact Edelbrock.

 

Is the emissions guy really clever enough to tell the difference between an edelbrock kit and a cast manifold with a big t3/t4?

 

Do you want to take that chance?

 

Do the emissions guys pop your hood?

 

It won't pass the visual inspection.

 

Yeah there is no way that I can shirk that.

The best bet that I have maybe injectors?
Running stock CR with forged internals.

 

Not your best bet. Contact Edelbrock.

 

Yeah I kinda think that would be the best bet.
What I am thinking that might be the best bet is if I went out and bought bigger injectors and a pump along with the piggy back system and had it tuned as close as I can to the Edelbrock map?

 

i have a ridiculous answer to your easy question. buy the kit STOCK (as is) - ref/bar your car with your turbo kit on.. build a spare motor on the side swap that motor in put the turbo kit back on, with a few changes or just keep a stock motor and up the boost until you reach around 260whp and youll be more than happy. edelbrock is one of the most complete/best off the shelf carb legal turbo kit for hondas and comes with goodies


change out the primary injectors to bigger ones
change piggy back to a real EMS (chrome,s300,ectune,aem,neptune)
up the boost

 

What about if I run bigger injectors and just have the map changed to accommodate that?

Here is why I am thinking that:
1. The only thing that is going to affect emissions on the SB is the CR (mostly sure of that) So- forged guts. Simple. That way they can take more the 250hp wall that a stock D series turbo can usually stand up to.
2. The company that sells those piggy backs from what I have gathered do make more tuner friendly versions of the Edelbrock one- so I can change piggybacks when I need to.
3. Changing injectors isn't half as bad as a full engine.
4. Stock heads can make 300hp, so worst case scenario- absolute worst, have that second piggy back have a tune for a different cam as well. Annoying as hell sure, but a hell of a lot better then a spare engine.
5. Watermeth. Works wonders.
6. The ***** to the walls tune will only be used at the track anyhow, so I would be able to run say race gas.

The goal is to make this thing a street drivable time attack car.
And if I remember correct, I am sure that there are some little stupid ways I can squeeze a few more horses outta this thing.

 

all you need is a the basic upgraded pistons/rods everything else motor/turbo kit wise will support 300hp. except injectors the EDELBROCK turbo kit piggy back system is pre"tuned" you cant mess with it you would have to go with another ems i posted above. however if you change size of injectors you will need to change ecu/maps to accommodate which the EDELBROCK piggy back will NOT do. water meth is not needed unless you plan to run a crazy aggressive timing map or 87 octane which i HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU NOT TO DO. 91+ is good for around 400-500 range depending on tuner/turbo ETC.

lastly for a time attack car the more hp is worst IMO. you will wheel spin too much. so it will not suit your purpose. and other limiting factors. i would go stock motor 200-260hp max and go from there for time attack. your doing too much and reading into it too much keep it simple and it will do you wonders.

 

that little horsepower even on a turbo engine?

 

no idea what kind of car you have and mods or condition of any of it. i am only given you advice, in the end you have the choice to do what you please with your car i answered your question. if you are hellbent on 300hp on corners go for it your car.

 

the engine is stock as it sits mate, but seriously about 200ish HP would do it just fine for a partial interiored AC having time attack car?


You might have became my new hero.

 

put it this way. 200hp flat torque curve make for a fun car. easy to drive and feels like its constantly pulling. if you increase hp/tq your wheels spin more usually up top... for a time attack its a trade off between cornering and hp. 2 things i can tell you would happen if you had 300. you would spin and be all over the place and be slow. but if you had good tires+lsd and suspension would be funner to drive in time attack situation easier to drive. not to say 300hp isnt fun but i meant specifically for time attack keep it around 200 until you get a feel for it. then upgrade everything slowly as power progressively increases i just am trying to help you save money and do it right. you only need a lot of hp if your racing on the freeway

 

You think that if I shot for around 230? That would be a happy median?

Its on the lighter end of the Civic family, its a 2000 DX hatch.
The suspension is getting done and I was looking at some brakes for the bugger, the interior is going to stay I think, just some buckets and harnesses maybe a cage if needs be.

 

my hatch on low boost 7 psi makes 220whp, i have "good tires" 225/45/15s with a lsd and good suspension if i floor it around corners it already feels like im going to lose it but luckily i know how to control it and drive it and i dont floor it on corners. i would rebuild your motor with what you wanted with 300hp reliability in mind. but i would only limit around 200hp for TIME ATTACK PURPOSE and if you want to go with 300 you can down the road.

all you need assuming car and motor is already healthy.

pistons rods combo installed
eldelbrock turbo kit (bar your car) then...
install bigger injectors
install new 2.5/3 bar map sensor
install chipped ecu or different ems- reTUNE IT
new good sticky tires
good suspension
i would look into a LSD and possibly aftermarket upgraded axles for Road Racing if your serious.

 

Stupid idea, since the kit turns out an even 200 as it is, maybe some underdrive pulleys and running a good exhaust, and other little silly things of the sort might massage out the 20 extra horses?

I mean honestly its going to be a highish compression engine as it is, so why not?
Maybe polishing the ports and stuff too.

 

Or a very mild cam thrown in the mix?
According to Bisimoto their 1/1.2 cam grinds are emissions friendly.