Trying to decide whether I want to do ls/vtec or b20/vtec in my 90 rex si. I have a b18b1 swapped in already with a jdm b16 sir tranny, hasport mounts, etc. I know ill get more power out of the b20 setup but I'm wondering if ill run into traction issues (I've been hearing that that is a main problem with the k swap crx's). Just wanted to get some input from ya'll that have knowledge bout these setups

 

I wouldn't use either a LS block or a b20 block. The only block I would consider is a dart block.

Someone had a type r drive train with a built b20 block, and supercharged on ebay for $4,000, which is just a bit lower than regular type r drive trains. It sat there for about 6 months before someone bought it. The b20/vtec just isn't desirable by most, the dart b20 is though. It is basically the b18 block bored to 2.0l.

 

From my own exoiernces i would never go ls/vtec or b20 vtec,
http://www.phatwhippincrx.20m.com/custom4.html
this link will explain exactly why going these routes are bad
honestly be patient and save up for a GSR swap they can be had for pretty cheap these days and theyre really reliable engines

 

I currently have an ls/vtec setup in my eg. I enjoy it very much but there are also downsides to it as well. I will personally never build another one since ive had a lot of problems. If you are going to get the route you will have to completely dissasemble and rebuild the motor to get it the full potential out of it without worrying about blowing the bottom end out. In the long run i would recommend just using all that money to find a cheap gsr and swap it in. Im not gonna tell you that they motors arent worth a **** or that they are a waste of time cause i love mine. But its not really practical in the long run. They only way you can get it done a whole lot cheaper then buying a good deal on a gsr is if you cut corners. B20 vtecs are good fun torque filled motors. But the same rules apply. As far as traction issues. I have some in my eg, i how hellatious wheel hop but i also have crappy motor mounts. If you get good solid mounts and some sticky tires traction shouldnt be an issue though. I had an h22 swaped crx and it grabbed pretty good after i got it all set up. Its all about how you want to do things. Your money lol.

 

I don't think you looking at that much more money either for a b18. Sell your b16 engine for 1k and buy a b18 engine for 2k.

Since you already have the tranny, and everything else, you shouldn't need much.

 

A b18c/gsr block should only cost you around 800, unless your talking about a complete block minus the tranny then that should be 1500 easily

 

i have a 6 years old b20b block thats still running in my wagon today. idk whats all this fuss about how it doesnt last. if its build properly you should have a problem at all. im running the originally rod bearings, rod bolts, oil pump and pretty much everything else. the block has seen 12's with a ctr head and bolt on in my brothers crx. where are you guys getting your numbers from selling a b16 block for 1k and a b18 for 2k? thats outrageous. a b16 block complete in my area goes for around 250-300 as a b18 goes for around 4 complete.

to the op, either or of the motors are fun to drive. ive had both, although i love the b20v more for its trq. if you already have the platform of the ls with b16 trans. start with the vtec conversion there. there are many ways to eliminate wheel hop to catch traction. good sticky tires, traction bar, good suspension..ive always used extended top hats to eliminate shaft play on the shocks to keep the front end moving upwards on a launch (these are custom made in height to how ever low the car goes to eliminate as much shaft bounce as possible) and this was used before i finally bought function form type 1 body coilovers.

 

My link will tell you exactly why the b20 is bad, R/S isnt ideal for an engine which makes power on reving higher like lets say a VTEC engine, you could say what you want but physically its not a good engine STOCK, now on to other problems concerning these frankenstein build is that you make things for complicated for example running oil lines tapping the head and various other things now your adding in variables for other things to go wrong with the engine simple as that, theres a reason honda lowered the CC on the VTEC b18s better R/S, if you have had no problems with your B20 vtec build then thats great honestly but even after you telling me its run fine for 2 years i still will never build nor recommend one of these engine even if you get better performance out of these builds

 

your link true and i totally agree. ive had other builders tell me the same thing and go with a gsr. but im just speaking on my behalf of experience and that ive never ran into any problems with my daily as well as the other 6-7 b20v and lsv ive built over the last few years. i dont want people to limit themselves to what motor they should go with so thats why i share my builds and show that b20v and lsv will too last.

 

Yes true i just believe you can build a b20v or ls vtec really good but its going to cost money nd for people who budjet build these engine i highly recommend them going with stock gsr

 

fuknlolthread

 

Thanks for all the info guys, that link opened my eyes. I've now been lookin at a jdm type r b16 or b18. Any opinions or recommendations, or downsides to either of those for my Rex? And how well do they handle boost with stock internals? I've been told my b18b1 is good for boost up to 10 lbs with stock internals

 

Yea becaue we all **** money. Idiot.

 

Clearly you have no actual experience with an LSVTEC/B20v. Your just pointing out what you THINK is wrong with them

 

I'm building a completely forged internal/built head LSV and I'm only spending about $1500 on everything, you just need to look out for deals, used parts are still good parts.

 

If you have no personal experience with an LS/Vtec or B20Vtec, don't put in your $.02.

To anyone who comes in here with that whole reliability and R/S ratio ****, you deserve to be slapped. I've put 2+ hard years on my 2 liter without any reliability issues. I start it every morning and off I go to work and school.

OP, if you decide to go B20Vtec, you won't look back. Build it right the first time and you'll be very happy. Make sure to have the car tuned properly and enjoy.

 

^ exactly. i love people's input on something they've never done before. ive put together so many frank engines that are still running today. when i went b20v, i too never looked back.

 

I currently have an ls/vtec that I'm tryin to sell so don't come here telling my I don't have any expiernce with them, you talk about how reliable they when built right but I'll still and always will recommend a simple b16 or gsr swap for people on budgets, and yes it's true you can fine great deals on parts to make your frankenstien swap run reliable and get better performance then stock vtec engine but as always like I stated before you are adding variables to the engine for things to wrong that a vtec engine wouldn't normally have and if you haven't ha any problems and you didn't spend that much money on your setup then that is great for you

 

If he is planning on replacing his Honda b16 block with another block, I still believe his only option is to buy a dart block. Other than that he should buy a complete b18c engine and head, or keep his stock block and build it. So I stand behind my statement that you clearly misunderstood. I would only replace my block with a dart block.

Additionally, if you’re going insult someone’s intelligence, please don’t do it with poor spelling.

You don't need to have personal experience to have done research on it. I personally was going to buy a b20v, but found out that it is bad investment. I was speaking directly on why I did not buy a b20v, and bought a b18cR instead.

 

Thumbs up

 

Hmm people who discourage it have fewer posts while those who encourage it have several thousand posts.... Curious

 

I need to be slapped in the face for stating facts?..... honestly if you believe the R/S ratio is ideal for high reving, because thats where vtec engine make most if there power then you sir need to be slapped, its a proven fact that a R/S that isnt meant for higher revlotions like lets say past 7000 rmp will shorten the life on your block.

 

Yeah I do look at those numbers also. But not sure how much those numbers mean. Personally, I worked as a mechanic at an honda shop for a couple years, then worked at a engine - tranmission shop for a couple years while I was in college. I have replaced over 50 engines on various makes and models. I rebuilt an engine on a mercedes that was 1 of 200 that was in the country. Basically my job at the second shop, was to do what other mechanic's didn't want to do, or messed up. I do admit though, I do know everything. You don't know what you don't know.

This is why I never said the b20v was bad in anyway. Because I never had one. I just stated what I observed about the desirablity of them. The question here is real basic.

Which would you rather have: a b20V, a 2.0L b18c, or even a b18c? Personally, I just bought a b18cR.

 

Yea poor spelling, sorry I missed one "s", I'm not spelling it "becuz yo". Good job jackass, I'm not some 16 puerto that come's on here acting like I know my stuff and can't spell worth a lick.

Once again, if you do not have personal experience with it, don't talk. That's like never owning an Ebay, let's say header for example, and preaching that it's a piece of **** and someone should never buy it. While the people that do own them, love them and have no real problems with them.

Clearly you aren't smart enough to build an engine, if you were, you would have, because if you did the "research" you say you did, you would know that if you build it right, you will not have problems. The stories you read, are probably from dumbasses like you that would just throw a VTEC head on the block with an external oil line, and call it a day.

Stop. posting. in. this. thread.

 

dont buy someone elses b20v/lsv. build your own build it right.