I recently installed a Type-R 22mm rear sway bar on my '97 LS, and am now experiencing a little bit of squeeling and squirlyness from the front tires when accelerating in a turn. Don't get me wrong, I'm not complaining... Before the upgraded rear sway bar, it would have understeered in these situations. I realize that because I'm accelerating, the weight balance is towards the rear, so the rear tires grip really well and the fronts have a reduced contact patch. But, I am wondering how to help keep the front tires gripping as well. Would the 24mm GS-R/Type-R front sway bar make much of a difference? Would stiffer springs/shocks help keep the tires pressed against the ground much better? Limited slip differential? Anything else?

Also, are the GS-R and Type-R front sway bars exactly the same? Same part number? How hard is it to install one?

Thanks!

 

I think the front lower bars are the same

What type of tires do you have?
Probably should get some better ones to get better traction.
What type of weather are you in? Cold could play a factor




[Modified by SonicGSR, 8:16 PM 10/8/2002]

 

Might be a lot of oversteer. The LS's front sway is 22mm while the gsr/itr is 24mm. LSD always helps.

 

Bigger front bar will keep the front end planted better.
Susp work will also help.

Tom

 

I've got the same problem. I have a stock suspension with the ITR rear bar. I think it's a combo of wider tires and the bar. I need to upgrade the suspension but don't have the funds to do it.
Aaron

 

Aaron and Weston,

Lets take the equation (24/22) to the 4th power = 141% more stiffer.
Do you guys need a loan shark. BTW I got in trouble tonight.

 

I will trade my stock rear for your itr rear

 

only if you trade me your GSR motor for mine!

 

do LS's have the upper strut bar that we have? If not you might need one of those too

 

No they don't. I know Weston has an upper strut bar and I don't. I definally need to get one. I'm thinking Neuspeed?
Aaron

 

Yeah, I figured it would be stiffer, but I'm just wondering how much of a real world difference it would make. I think I'll probably go with better tires and stiffer springs/shocks first.

RAB01GSR: what did you get in trouble for? The cops are on a rampage in Boulder County lately for some reason. I came across 3 cops in different places running radar on me when I went to Longmont for my dinner break tonight. And there were tons out last night, even really late.

 

I've got front and rear strut bars on mine... I noticed an improvement when I installed them a little over a year ago, but it's nothing huge and I don't think the rear bar does much.

 

Ha, just refer to my sign, click the top link and you'll figure out I'm sure I've been in a busiiness argument the past 2-3 days.

 

So, when does the stuff come in? Fall break is right around the corner! How did your accounting exam go after that autocross?

 

Let me just say that accounting is one of the hardest b-school courses at CU, every other b-school class is probably manageable. I'm I right. And the parts were sent out from Comptech on Monday at 1:00 p.m. or at least that's what I'm told. From previous orders RY8127 and I have have made from Cali we find we will usually recieve our parts on Thursday or Friday if the order was sent out Monday. BTW I ordered a Comptech high flow Air filter form their site last night, (couldn't order it from Diabloautosports). And i asked them to provide me will tracking info on both orders.

 

Volcom: for the best bar for the buck, try the Mugen and Carbing bars. If your not concern with $$$ then this the best upper strut bar you can get. I have the Spoon one but not yet installed. If i would of known.....i would of bought those. These are excellent aftermarket bars that I've seen and read. You can also obtained the OEM ($160-180)one but its a little cheaper than Mugen/Carbing (both are over $200)..

DRRAB: I saw your thread in best buys discussing your lost with diablo. Sorry it had to come that way. I know TEKEN had to deal with you. Good Luck

 

Everything turned out ok, the arguement between us two and a few other people was getting old, and I think I summed up the whole situation best by my ananlysis of what had actually had happend and that Mike was at fault for the initial screw-up. Everything is ok now, I have all of my parts being sent to me direct form Comptech as we speak, so installation shoud take place on Thursday or friday.

BTW how hard/how long is it to install and whole I/H/E system?

 

If your installing it YOURSELF, it will take @ the most a half-day.

It really does depend how much skills you have. Most of which is just screws/bolts.

What im worried about you is installing the header. You MIGHT throw out CEL codes and I forgot which one

Yet, I never installed a header by myself, but gained experience installing some with the help of my friends. I know for sure the CEL code problems and o2 sensors

You probably need some help, ask your b00ty-buddy Volcom to help yA


[Modified by project_DC2, 5:36 PM 10/9/2002]

 

Hey, watch who you call b00ty-buddy, buddy. Hahaha

 

Bawhahahahah, WTF where did that come from. Anyways tell me morte about the O2 sensor problems and CEL programming codes we may face.

 

As long as your new header has an O2 sensor bung like the stock one does, you should be fine. I even drove around for a day with a big exhaust leak (forgot to install the donut between the header and cat) and it ran *slightly* funny, but nothing major and no CEL's.

The install isn't hard, but you may have some trouble breaking the exhaust bolts loose. Being that your car is newer, it probably wont be bad, but have a breaker bar handy just in case. And be careful... there's plenty of ways to cut yourself and bust knuckles.

 

Weston:

Thanks and if I have anymore questions I'll be sure to contact you. I had the same thought about the bolts.

 

What's bad is I can't even afford the neuspeed bar right now. I don't think I'll ever be able to own anything mugen