Best coilover for your money?
A lot of people will point you in the Koni/GC as it is a proven setup. This is food for thought as well.
http://www.tune2win.com/index.php/pe...t_3_track_test
http://www.tune2win.com/index.php/pe...t_3_track_test
Im actually in the same boat as you are. im looking to track my R and upgrade the complete suspension...
But there's not alot of information on actual test on suspension with a Type R...
I want to up grade my
Control arms, front and rear,
bushing trailing arms, sway bar etc...
brakes setup..
but most of the info I find is really old with old products or for civic's.... or a None Type R integra witch any suspension is a huge gain LOL...
But there's not alot of information on actual test on suspension with a Type R...
I want to up grade my
Control arms, front and rear,
bushing trailing arms, sway bar etc...
brakes setup..
but most of the info I find is really old with old products or for civic's.... or a None Type R integra witch any suspension is a huge gain LOL...
Running gc/koni's with 550/600 spring rates. The car is mainly tracked. Will eventually go stiffer and and revalve shocks. If you are going to do the "occasional" track day I would get a little stiffer than ots rates. But they are a great setup.
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Im actually in the same boat as you are. im looking to track my R and upgrade the complete suspension...
But there's not alot of information on actual test on suspension with a Type R...
I want to up grade my
Control arms, front and rear,
bushing trailing arms, sway bar etc...
brakes setup..
but most of the info I find is really old with old products or for civic's.... or a None Type R integra witch any suspension is a huge gain LOL...
But there's not alot of information on actual test on suspension with a Type R...
I want to up grade my
Control arms, front and rear,
bushing trailing arms, sway bar etc...
brakes setup..
but most of the info I find is really old with old products or for civic's.... or a None Type R integra witch any suspension is a huge gain LOL...
Again...you need to search this forum. We've been over this topic quite a bit and there is no need to repeat it again, especially when not much has changed from a few years ago.
"smooth ride" depends a lot on your spring rate but also the quality of the dampers (but also the quality of your tires and your tires pressures)
The setups mentioned previously are best bang for buck -- I wouldn't go with a spring rate higher than 600# unless you are going to reinforce the unibody
The setups mentioned previously are best bang for buck -- I wouldn't go with a spring rate higher than 600# unless you are going to reinforce the unibody
I picked up a set of Koni Yellows/GC setup with top hats for $650.
The difference is night and day to stock and you definitely feel more confident in the corners.
The difference is night and day to stock and you definitely feel more confident in the corners.
www.thmotorsports.com for koni/gc. rates are subjective
the 550F / 600R mentioned is absolutely the most i would ever consider on a stock sport. the rears start getting floaty
a hot street combo is 500F 450R which maintains a more neutral car. having a slight rear bias is faster on the track and lets the car rotate easier, it's just more dangerous on rainy highways.
as for replacing arms and all that garbage. all you need to do is replace the bushings. there aren't any benefits to aftermarket other than spending lots of money and having pre loaded bushings. none of the aftermarkets have done anything worthwhile like add caster adjustability to the front.
just choose your bushing. hardrace will last longer than energy but they are softer and harder to install
energy suspension makes the easy to install poly bushings but the front control arms are toast by 40k miles
the 550F / 600R mentioned is absolutely the most i would ever consider on a stock sport. the rears start getting floaty
a hot street combo is 500F 450R which maintains a more neutral car. having a slight rear bias is faster on the track and lets the car rotate easier, it's just more dangerous on rainy highways.
as for replacing arms and all that garbage. all you need to do is replace the bushings. there aren't any benefits to aftermarket other than spending lots of money and having pre loaded bushings. none of the aftermarkets have done anything worthwhile like add caster adjustability to the front.
just choose your bushing. hardrace will last longer than energy but they are softer and harder to install
energy suspension makes the easy to install poly bushings but the front control arms are toast by 40k miles
I bought the Koni Yellow/GC sleeves from a friend who used them for daily driving for about a month but decided to buy a different car.
They're already installed and it's a 95 EJ1 (no idea how much it weights)
I've always been involved with motorcycles so this is my first car which I've added "modifications" and based on my previous post, it's obvious I don't know much.
They're already installed and it's a 95 EJ1 (no idea how much it weights)
I've always been involved with motorcycles so this is my first car which I've added "modifications" and based on my previous post, it's obvious I don't know much.
rears are a little light. 425/300 will understeer pretty bad. switching out to the 380lb spring in the back or even 400lb spring would really balance the car out






