ok so on my DB7...... when its cold its really hard to get the key to go in(outside of the door) and if i do get it to go in its really hard to turn. alot of the time i have to talk to the passenger door and unlock the car like that. why is this happing and what can i do to fix this. i thought i have heard of using granite on the key and inserting that into the lock to try to free it up and lubricate it.

on my DC2..... it wont start now. i have tested my starter and its fine, i have power running to the starter its self. my question is on the starter solenoid when im cranking the engine should it pull any volts. I had my DMM hooked up and when i would crank it no volts would show up.
--- i havent run i jumper from 12v to the solenoid to see if it starts, because my battery is in my trunk lol.

thank you,
cody

 

I would remove the lock cylinder from the door and clean it out, sounds like someone has sprayed in a lubricant and it is "freezing up" once it is clean apply some graphite lock cylinder "lube".

You do not need to jump from the batt. to the starter solenoid to do a bypass jump, you can jump from the batt. cable terminal on the starter motor.

How exactly do you have your relocated batt. wired, [what gauge is the cable, where and how is the batt. grounded, what are you using for a fuse/breaker, where is the cable from the batt. connected to in the engine bay]?94

 

my battery is located in the passenger side trunk. grounded with 0 gauge ground wire. 0 gauge from the battery to my splitter witch takes it into two 4 gauge wires. one runs directly to the starter the other to the fuse box. i have a 100 amp fuse about 6-10in away from the battery.


my car was having a little starting problem for some time now..... every now and then at wouldn't start. after a few try's it would start or i would have to disconnect the starter solenoid wire and re-connect it again to get my car to start. my dc2 is a 94 gsr also.


that intermittent problem is why im thinking its the solenoid wire or further back.

 

How, exactly?

Does it refuse to turn at all until you wiggle it enough times? Or does it turn slowly and with lots of drag throughout its travel?

 

First thing I would do is get rid of the splitter, run the batt. cable directly to the starter motor, then run an 8ga from the starter to the engine bay fuse box, that way you eliminate unnecessary connections.

0 gauge is overkill, there is nothing in the car that needs 350A of current, which you can't pass anyway, with a 100A fuse.

A 2ga would be more then enough and then install a 250A ANL fuse using the post type fuse holder, again directly to the starter motor. 94

 

do you really think thats my problem though. its started fine before and was even haveing a hard time to start before i relocated me battery. how many volts is the solenoid supost to pull when cranking?

 

heres a little video i took a couple nights ago. this is me with my dmm conected to the solenoid. black to ground and red to solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jsozH...N5L7pHyPOWAAMt

 

The starter solenoid "pulls" 12V, I think your looking for how much current, [amps] the solenoid draws.

This may not be your problem, but it is still the correct way to wire a relocated batt., ever connection you place in a power, [or ground] wire/cable is a point of resistance, resistance produces heat, heat leads to more resistance, and any connection point is prone to oxidization, [corrosion] and that leads to more resistance, resistance leads to voltage drops and limits current, none of which is good.

Think about it, when the batt. is in the stock location, the batt. pos.(+) is connected directly to the starter motor, no splitters are used.


Once the batt. is rewired, check for voltage on the starter solenoid lead, connect meters ground probe to ground, test voltage at the batt. cable on starter motor, then unplug the starter lead and have somone turn key to start while you check voltage at the starter lead, it should be the same as the batt. cable lead, if not then you have a problem with either the ign. switch, [starter output] or the starter relay, [5 speed] A/T gear position switch, [automatic] or the wiring/connections between the ign. switch and the starter motor solenoid. 94

 

The vid is not telling me much, I do not know what it is set for, [volts or amps] and I do not know what you mean by "black to ground and red to solenoid." where is it grounded and is the red on on the starter wire to the solenoid and is the wire still connected to the solenoid? 94

 

its on volts. ummm and i had the wire disconnected when i did this test so i messed up because i need to have that wire plugged in when testing. i will test again tomorrow or tonight. They way im testing is testing for available voltage correct?

 

Is that DC volts, [20V setting]?
The starter wire needs to be disconnected, [so that is correct].
Where is meter grounded?
Any ground point will work, engine would be best.

If the above is correct you will need to move the meter inside the car and test the voltage on the power lead to ign. switch, should be a white or white/black, if good check for voltage on the starter lead when ign. key is in start position, [starter lead at solenoid must be plugged in for this test] lead shoud be a black/white, if good, check for power on the output of the starter relay, should be a black/red or black/white, if your car is an automatic then check the output of the A/T gear position switch, should be a black/white for both in and out. 94

 

yea dc volts.

on that test yes i had it (solenoid wire) disconnected, but i had the black lead to engine ground the the red lead to the solenoid its self not the wire. if i dont pull any volts when cranking ill move to the ignition switch, which is located in the steering column?

 

Yes, test for voltage on the solenoid wire not the solenoid itself and yes, if no voltage at the solenoid wire then move to the ign. switch wire harness. 94