Rebuilding Head, What do I need?
I had a head Gasket blow so I removed the head and took it to a head shop to get it checked out. So far it's not warped but we will need disassemble the head for the pressure test to check for cracks.
My question is will I be able to reuse all the parts in the valve train or is there a rebuild kit so I can keep it as stock as possible? Will it be ok if I clean up the valves with a wire wheel or some emory cloth?
My question is will I be able to reuse all the parts in the valve train or is there a rebuild kit so I can keep it as stock as possible? Will it be ok if I clean up the valves with a wire wheel or some emory cloth?
Depends on how many miles are on the head. If you took it apart and getting it checked, you might as well spend a little money new parts. New valves, guides, seal, springs, and retainers..NEW headbolts should be used as well.
That's what I thinking. Also can anyone elaborate on why it is important to replace the head bolts? Please excuse my ignorance but I like to know why I need to do something. I will definitely replace them.
Your old bolts stretched when the factory installed them. 1 time use only. What kind of motor is this work being done on?
You can have a shop pressure check the valves. The type of motor this is should dictate how much you are willing to spending to rebuild it. If it's a D series I'd just buy a used, but in good shape replacement.
You can have a shop pressure check the valves. The type of motor this is should dictate how much you are willing to spending to rebuild it. If it's a D series I'd just buy a used, but in good shape replacement.
Ah stretched, makes sense. It's the D15B7 and you can see pics of the tear-down here:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/not-starting-ignition-issues-over-heating-3012114/
Sorry for the bad cell pics.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/not-starting-ignition-issues-over-heating-3012114/
Sorry for the bad cell pics.
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I had a head Gasket blow so I removed the head and took it to a head shop to get it checked out. So far it's not warped but we will need disassemble the head for the pressure test to check for cracks.
My question is will I be able to reuse all the parts in the valve train or is there a rebuild kit so I can keep it as stock as possible? Will it be ok if I clean up the valves with a wire wheel or some emory cloth?
My question is will I be able to reuse all the parts in the valve train or is there a rebuild kit so I can keep it as stock as possible? Will it be ok if I clean up the valves with a wire wheel or some emory cloth?
I've heard about reusing head bolts with some success. I mean its a d15, not like a high compresson build. I'd have a hard time paying $100+ for arp bolts.
Even for a stock rebuild, I would say go with new headbolts. Either ARP or OEM, spend the $100 now rather than a $1000 later for a new motor.. just my thoughts
If it was my head: after the warp and pressure check I would just bench wire wheel the valves and put new valve seals in and make sure it all is clean.
I only use new head bolts if they are "torque to yield bolts" (engine models that the assembly torque sequence requires an additional 90 or 180 degrees or whatever turn after the initial torque wrench torquing)
I only use new head bolts if they are "torque to yield bolts" (engine models that the assembly torque sequence requires an additional 90 or 180 degrees or whatever turn after the initial torque wrench torquing)
the combustion chamber explodes on every stroke of the piston. this pushes vertically on the head bolts. after time, the bolts stretch a very small amount making them unsafe to use on a head R&R.
hope this answered the question
What do you mean the combustion chamber explodes on every stroke? It's just the combustion stroke... These aren't waste spark systems.
and yes ARP studs are a waste on a stock D15. However good OEM replacement studs are about the same price. So screw it, spend the extra $40 or whatever and get ARPs.
Edit:
Just checked eGay and a set of ARP studs for a D series is $100 shipped.
Lol +1.
My talon when I first got it when I was 15, had a blown head gasket, so I took it to a shop, when I got it back, it overheated in minutes, everytime I started it. I come to find they re-used the headstuds. But headstuds are ok to reuse right? come on now.
My talon when I first got it when I was 15, had a blown head gasket, so I took it to a shop, when I got it back, it overheated in minutes, everytime I started it. I come to find they re-used the headstuds. But headstuds are ok to reuse right? come on now.
I re-used my ARPs on my B18C seeing that the ARP rep said it "should" be okay to re-use the studs. I have small bubbles in my coolant which never seem to go away. My guess is the HG did not seal properly due to re-using the studs.
Never again will I re-use any studs. Saving $120 is not worth engine failure.
Never again will I re-use any studs. Saving $120 is not worth engine failure.


