updates are in my last reply.
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just picked up this car and it had a leaking radiator.

i got a new radiator new fans and upper and lower hoses.

the coolant was kinda brownish color when i drained it from old radiator. does that indicate anything?

started it up and got bouncing idle, when it warms up it starts bouncing really fast

when i plug the iacv inlet with my finger the idle stays constant
when i unplug the iac plug the idle goes stays constant also.

car shows a code P0505

i had a d15b iacv so i swapped it real quick to see if it works and got a p1803 code at first.
and it disappeared after i cleared the codes( are they compatible?)


the temp stays solid just below half of the gauge.


car als would not rev past 4k so i replaced the map sensor at the same time i did iacv and now it goes to redline.

after my last test drive the idle stopped bouncing after few passes with carb cleaner and d15b iacv.

theres also no vacuum leaks i checked everywhere with carb spray.

ignition is good and spark plugs are good.

i also found an old thermostat in the autozone box in the car so im assuming that its been replaced recently

i would like to get some opinions on what else i should check to make sure its all good and will pass the emissions.

 

sounds like ur good to go other than maybe a quick seafoam to clean everything up, the brown coolant is a sign that it was waaaay over due for a flush

 

just make sure you got all the air out...not hard at all...yes they are compatable....check for exhaust leaks and as said before sounds like youre good to go

 

is there any way to tell if coolant leak sealer was used?

 

I had a problem like this as well. Turned out to be a bad cat which i gutted, and then revved over 4500 for me.

 

just look for any sludge build up in the old radiator. especially around the lower rad hose outlet. if it was brown, it could mean that an excessive amount of water to coolant was used causing rust in the passages.
have a look inside the old rad through the cap. if you see rust inside, it's not a good sign. also, have a look at the new coolant now. see if it's changed color

 

i hope there was none used because it flows throught the motor and the heater core what i would do is flush the heater core

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcL_0TWeZJY

also if you feel like spending a little extra get the coolant from honda

 

new one looks green still and just alil bit of sludge on the cap

 

update.
drove it today hoping to get it throught emissions but the place was closed (snow in seattle is the end of the world)


when i started it up at first it had the fluctuating idle but not fast like it did before.
this time it was typical wobbly.

had it sit for about 15-20 min then sprayed some carb cleaner in the intake and plugged the inlets for iacv and the other one for few seconds and it went away after that. wtf???

not sure it if was because of what i did or just warmed up fully and went away.


drove it around for about 2 hours and it never came back ( i shut it off about 3 times) and restarted and it was all good.

also in the morning while it was warming up it would cut out at 5000 rpm but i havent tried it when it was warm.

theres also no sludge in the radiator so im thinking he just put a different type of coolant in it.... i donno who was the one ghetto rigging that car but it was just stupid lol.

but im puzzled with the 5000 cut off.


and NO check engine lights

 

im at loss here. it sat in the garage for 2 days

started it up today and let it warm up for about 30 minutes and same sht.

p0505 code and idle jumps up and down rapidly


last time i drove it around for about 2-3 hours and it was fine, no codes or anything

 

so i had a problem similar to this and it turned out to be my wiring harness connector for the iac check and make sure the wires are good, also i know for a fact if the tps and iac are not working properly the ecu will go into "safe mode" and not let u rev past a pre determined level, i had a faulty tps forever and never really bothered toreplace it but when the iac plug screwed off i had to drive home from work in limp mode and mine wouldnt let me rev past 2500 rpm!!! i ended up replacing my entire engine harness because mine was hacked quite extensively. oh and btw if u touch the 2 wires together for the iac it will blow the ecu so learn from my mistake and unplug it first lol.

 

also just found this post from another member on this site.

Because this seems to be a common problem with civics, especially EK's and EM1's.
I didnt realize it happened so much until it happened to me, an only then i noticed the ridiclous amount of posts like 'idle acting up, IACv, etc'


First off, the code you're getting (P0505) same as CEL 14, is not IACv like how it says in the FAQ's stickied in here, Club Si, etc...
P0505/Code 14 is Idle Control SYSTEM malfunction, not IACv.

Possible Causes:

-IACvalve mechanical malfunction
-Throttle body clogged port, improper adjustment
-Intake manifold gasket leakage
-Intake airhose loose leakage
-Vacuum leak
-ECT sensor incorrect output
-Throttle Posistion Sensor incorrect output
(for the TPS incorrect output, this might be only for motors made in '96)

Try an check these things.

Start the motor, hold rpms at 3000 until the radiator fan comes on, then let it idle.
Check TPS, with the throttle fully closed, the TPS should be around 10%
(coolant temp should be around 200 degrees, give or take 5 degress or so.)

if your idle is above 550, check for vacuum leaks. Take the intake off, put your finger over the lower port in the throttle body. if the idle doesnt drop, check for vacuum leaks, make sure the throttle valve is closed completely.
if the idle does drop, adjust the idle speed. if you cannot adjust, replace IACv.

if the idle is less than 550, do the following:
disconnect the connector from the IACv.
(for A/T, d167y) if the engine speed doesnt increase, replace IACv. if it dies increase, adjust the (base) idle speed, clean the ports in the throttle body as necessary.

(for B16A2, d16y5,y8)if the engine speed drops or stalls, adjust the (base) idle speed, clean the ports in the throttle body as necessary. if the engine speed doesnt drop, or doesnt stall, replace IACv.

Do these before you decide to go down to Honda and spend $290 on a new IAVc and you dont need it. But if you do, i have one, brand new in box that i cant return, so its for sale.

 

oh no im not spending any money at local dealership after i checked how much they charge for thermostat. and other things that i compared to majestic honda( i bet many dealerships across the country hate majestic honda because they outsell them in almost 100% cases)

pickandpull is a very good friend of mine.

except my luck is shitty.
when i need a part its not there when i dont need it...
i was looking for a z6 engine to swap in the civic for about 6 months no z6 at the yard.
there was 3 z6 cars with full swaps in them prior and about 6 cars after i already put a y7 in it...
was looking for parts for my integra there was none for about a year.
after i bought the part from craigslist they had 3-4 integras at the lot with full interiors but i already sold the car...

and now i have a feeling that when i go to pickandpull to get the iacv and throttle body they are gonna be gone,after sitting there untouched for over a week....

anyway back to topic

when i plug the inlet(either top or bottom) the idle drops and stays constant.
when i spray the carb cleaner into the intake idle drops and stops jumping for a second and comes back.
last time i pressed the throttle body with my finger and it stopped bouncing, so i adjusted the stopper screw and cleaned out the throttle
i took a known working iacv from d15b7(only one i had)

but when i unplugged the original one there was no coolant in the lines which was kinda odd.

this is another one of those " i dont know wtf the previous owner did to this" cars.

so far it seems like he didnt have a chance to faq anything up but i dont know if he fried the ecu or damaged any other things besides radiator.

and again it just my luck that the time i tried to take it to emissions it was closed due to snow, and still closed due to snow, while i had almosta full week off and now wont have time to take it there untill next week, cant drive it without tabs its a catch 21, need to drive it to troubleshoot, but need to pass emissions to drive it...


can it be the pcv valve?
because it seems like theres 2 different problems

the iacv is slow bouncing idle.

this time it was really fast


interesting. reading another thread it said there should not be any suction through fitv. in my case there is, so it might be not even iacv problem. im gonna check it tomorrow. the fitv might be clogged which would explain air in iacv as well.

 

youre on the right track man and u can find lots of other posts here about honda idle issues there quite a few things it could be, i know that when i fried my ecu the cel stayed on saying the iac was bad no matter how many i replaced it with so its too bad your so far from me cuz i have 4 of them lol and a bunch of other parts that i pick n pulled lol but map and tps iac fitv all kinda work together if ones gone you'll have idle issues. the pcv i no longer even use i just pulled it and vent to atmosphere. but if its clogged it could potentially cause an issue but wouldnt be my first guess.

 

you should get suction from the fitv port at the throttle body when the engine is cold. not when hot. if you do feel vacuum from the port when hot, the fitv is sticking

 

so i decided to take apart the FITV this time since i took apart one that was just chillin in my garage and it was loose.(explains why i had vaccum through the bottom port in the TB)
took apart the one from integra and it was even more loose and dirty...
so I DO RECOMMEND everyone taking yours apart and checking to see if its screwed in all the way.
100% 2 out of 2 that i had were loose lol honda wtf moment on those i guess. should i use threadlock?

moving on

took tha fitv apart cleaned that
and to my surprise i found the problem of dry iacv coolant pipes

the inlet was completely clogged with sone silicone looking sht.
which i assume is the evil STOPLEAK that was in the system settled in the fitv.
checked all the other pipes and they all have fresh GREEN coolant in them.
but theres alot of dirt in them
took apart all the small pipes and cleaned them
took off the thermostat side of lower hose and it looks clean and green with no sludge in it.

but now im worried that all the sludge just went into the brand new radiator that i installed.
the coolant i drained also looks nice and green no chunks.


so i will be putting the original iacv back on
and getting new hoses.

good thing is the internals look nice and clean not burned.


i also found a set of good (tested)spark plug wires in the car

and damn retard put a set of busted aftermarket wires that were corroded to sheets and barely made contact with one of the plugs ( probably why it wouldnt rev past 5000)
again i am certain that some people SHOULD NOT even touch the car at all.


heres some pics
under valve cover





the sludge that was clogging the fitv it was completely covered with it

upper hose inlet

 

bump

dont know if i should put everything back together or check in other spots.
i dont have too much time with this car i need it out of the garage and driving asap.


will the coolant system cleaner dissolve all this stop leak crap?

 

we use a product from motorcraft called vc-9. follow the directions carefully. don't let it run through the system for too long

 

passed emissions today and been driving it all day no problems so far... temps are solid right below half mark no leaks or noises...

original iacv is on and idle is also smooth so it was a fitv problem after all.good note on the fitv that it only supposed to have vacuum when cold.

 

just when i thought it was fixed i still got few gremlins under hood.

today i decided to see how it does on long drives.

and heres whats goin on in sequence

been driving it since last week to/from work(10 minute drive) no overheating/chk engine/ idle issues. everything seemed good.
temps are just below the half mark( i belive the thermostat is generic autozone)

drove it to my parents house 50 mile trip one way again temps were fine on the way there a bit closer to middle tho.
as soon as i got off the freeway the temp started rising and stay just above the mid mark.
got to the house and about 20 minutes later started the car back up and it threw the code and had wobbly idle and the temp started rising.
so i gave it some gas and it brought down the temp to below half mark again.
from then on i had to do that all the way home even on the freeway.

i step on gas for 2 seconds 4000 rpm and temps drop
i slow down to 60mph and temp starts creeping cuz the rpms are low.

but what i dont understand is.
when i shut the engine off and restart it right away the temp stays normal all the time driving around city for next 10 minutes...

i havent pulled the code yet(just got home) but im almost positive its the same p0505 code.

new radiator and cap,new pipes everywhere
cleaned throttle body and all sensors around it.

heres the video of when i started it at my parents house.

 

generic autozone thermostat = problem

 

definitely sounds like a flow issue. could be the water pump isn't pushing enough coolant. could also be a restriction somewhere
pull the code and let us know what's going on with that

 

this could very well also be the issue. if the t-sta isn't opening enough, that could be your restriction right there

 

there was a thread on here a few weeks ago that said that the generic tstats only opened like 4-6mm where as the honda recommended size is 8mm which is what the OEM ones open to, it sure as **** would explain my supersized cooling system never getting below 200F on my car even with a 180 thermostat, 2 fans, fullsize rad, and new waterpump.

 

x2 Trust me get oem. I learned twice not to get anything besides oem. At least for the thermostats.